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So changed my plugs and replaced the vacuum line between the manifold and fuel pressure regulator. Thought it was fixed but…Yup too good to be true. After a few days my CEL came back with the same P1702 Bank1 running rich code. Engine still has a good rev and power, but the exhaust smells heavy again. So its only a matter of time before these plugs get burned. Going to go back to vacuum line checking. Got a hold of my buddies VCDS, but its the shareware version with the chinese knock off plugs that works occasionally. Haven’t been able to get it to function to get a fuel trim status.
all right, so its been awhile but I finally got around to taking a look at the car. Funny thing is I pulled the battery cables awhile it sat and put it on a charger since it was going to be really cold the whole week. Hooked it up again today and the car runs great…starts fine,I can rev it and it doesn’t stall, and there are no check engine codes???
I decided to check the plugs anyway. So I pulled all of them and this is what they look like:
[IMG]http://i60.tinypic.com/29276h5.jpg[/IMG]
Look pretty burnt, they didn’t have any gas or oil residue on them. Going to change anyway.
Thanks. Yeah i’m well aware of the sensors these cars go through. Its already on its 3rd coolant temp sensor which was changed a few months ago. The MAF is a used OEM one which was changed in the fall. If it was the o2 sensor wouldn’t you think the code specific to that fault would come up though instead of the P0172 code?
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=85200]To me it sounds like a fluid issue. You might want to try the MT90 GL 4 that is suggested above if you’re not running that.
Keep us posted.[/quote]
Thanks Eric. I recently put in a new mixture of MT90 and MTL which are both GL-4 rated in replacement of the original OEM fluid. It has shifted much smoother up until now. I lubed up all the rubber bushings at the shift lever in the engine bay with 3M silicone paste. I took it out for a spin and for a little while the car shifted well, but then the shifter started jamming up when trying to put it into reverse. There is actually enough room between the engine and the battery for me to slide my hand down and manually place the shift level on top of the transmission into reverse, then jump back into the car, turn it on, and release the clutch and the car will reverse just fine. So this leads me to believe this is a shift linkage issue.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=85200]To me it sounds like a fluid issue. You might want to try the MT90 GL 4 that is suggested above if you’re not running that.
Keep us posted.[/quote]
Thanks Eric. I recently put in a new mixture of MT90 and MTL which are both GL-4 rated in replacement of the original OEM fluid. It has shifted much smoother up until now. I lubed up all the rubber bushings at the shift lever in the engine bay with 3M silicone paste. I took it out for a spin and for a little while the car shifted well, but then the shifter started jamming up when trying to put it into reverse. There is actually enough room between the engine and the battery for me to slide my hand down and manually place the shift level on top of the transmission into reverse, then jump back into the car, turn it on, and release the clutch and the car will reverse just fine. So this leads me to believe this is a shift linkage issue.
[quote=”JS” post=85151]Redline MT90 GL 4 is the best stuff for VW gear boxes! Hands down. Did you use the GL 4 version? If you used 5 you may want to drain it as brass synchronisers do not hold up long.
The issue you have is more than likely in the shift cables. Its the one draw back to the cable shift the 02A gear boxes use. Try removing them from the gear box and then flushing them with a good penetrating oil, then flushing them again with a good HSS silicone lube. If it improves it but not 100% just change the cables, but lube new cables with an HSS silicone first!
In the cold that gear box will shift slow until its warmed up also. Half the time I let my car idle up to temp more so the gear box is warm. Using a synthetic gear oil should help. It did in mine.[/quote]
Hey JS,
Both fluids are supposed to by rated for a GL-4 transmission. I didn’t use gl-5 since I knew I had yellow metals inside in this transmission.
This particular year of car was the first of the 4th generation and for some reason they used a mk3 style shift linkage in it instead of the better more robust one in the 2000 and on. So if I’m going to go through the trouble of removing the cables I might as well try and find the better shifter assembly and replace it with that because it is still giving me trouble going into reverse.
Thanks
[quote=”JS” post=85151]Redline MT90 GL 4 is the best stuff for VW gear boxes! Hands down. Did you use the GL 4 version? If you used 5 you may want to drain it as brass synchronisers do not hold up long.
The issue you have is more than likely in the shift cables. Its the one draw back to the cable shift the 02A gear boxes use. Try removing them from the gear box and then flushing them with a good penetrating oil, then flushing them again with a good HSS silicone lube. If it improves it but not 100% just change the cables, but lube new cables with an HSS silicone first!
In the cold that gear box will shift slow until its warmed up also. Half the time I let my car idle up to temp more so the gear box is warm. Using a synthetic gear oil should help. It did in mine.[/quote]
Hey JS,
Both fluids are supposed to by rated for a GL-4 transmission. I didn’t use gl-5 since I knew I had yellow metals inside in this transmission.
This particular year of car was the first of the 4th generation and for some reason they used a mk3 style shift linkage in it instead of the better more robust one in the 2000 and on. So if I’m going to go through the trouble of removing the cables I might as well try and find the better shifter assembly and replace it with that because it is still giving me trouble going into reverse.
Thanks