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Thought I’d weigh in regarding the question from the fellow wanting to autocross his Civic Si.
The short answer to this question is “no, it probably won’t break your car.” With the exception of dramatically increased tire wear, a single autocross is unlikely to damage a vehicle that is in good working order. Make sure all the fluids are topped off and not leaking, the suspension is not worn out and your brakes are properly bled and the pads and rotors have some life left. This is all basic maintenance anyway, so if you haven’t done it, you should, autocross or no.
If you run in enough autocrosses, you’ll probably break something eventually, but the same could be said of any other flavor of spirited driving.
Good video; I kinda stopped watching when you started doing tool reviews. I guess that sort of thing has its place, but it didn’t really hold my interest.
Anyway, I came in here to comment because I couldn’t tell from the video if this was an option, but…
On Toyotas I’ve worked on, the inner tie rods had a section where they had a 12 or 14mm hex shape, so you could get an open end wrench on them. Could you not have saved yourself the hassle of getting that cotter pin out by just leaving the outer end on the knuckle and turning the inner end out of it?
Also, I’ve never seen a cotter pin get stuck like that, even on really old cars. Is that caused by years of exposure to road salt (which we don’t have where I live in Texas)?
Good video; I kinda stopped watching when you started doing tool reviews. I guess that sort of thing has its place, but it didn’t really hold my interest.
Anyway, I came in here to comment because I couldn’t tell from the video if this was an option, but…
On Toyotas I’ve worked on, the inner tie rods had a section where they had a 12 or 14mm hex shape, so you could get an open end wrench on them. Could you not have saved yourself the hassle of getting that cotter pin out by just leaving the outer end on the knuckle and turning the inner end out of it?
Also, I’ve never seen a cotter pin get stuck like that, even on really old cars. Is that caused by years of exposure to road salt (which we don’t have where I live in Texas)?
Is there an EGR flow sensor?
The Crown Vic I had actually had a sensor that it used to determine how much EGR flow there was. Failure of this was fairly common, which would cause the ECU to throw a code with a very similar description to yours.
The sensor in question is called a “DPFE sensor” in the mod motors (stands for “delta pressure flow-EGR”).
Is there an EGR flow sensor?
The Crown Vic I had actually had a sensor that it used to determine how much EGR flow there was. Failure of this was fairly common, which would cause the ECU to throw a code with a very similar description to yours.
The sensor in question is called a “DPFE sensor” in the mod motors (stands for “delta pressure flow-EGR”).
Is the intake manifold in the truck in question two pieces?
I had a crown vic that complained about this (although it had OBD2, so the code was different), and the solution was to remove the upper portion of the intake manifold, which consisted of the throttle body and a 90 degree elbow-shaped aluminum piece, which exposed a very narrow portion of the EGR passage, cast into the intake manifold. This had gotten clogged with oily gunk, I assume condensed oil from the PCV mixed with carbon from the EGR.
Once that was cleaned out, it functioned properly until I got rid of the car.
Is the intake manifold in the truck in question two pieces?
I had a crown vic that complained about this (although it had OBD2, so the code was different), and the solution was to remove the upper portion of the intake manifold, which consisted of the throttle body and a 90 degree elbow-shaped aluminum piece, which exposed a very narrow portion of the EGR passage, cast into the intake manifold. This had gotten clogged with oily gunk, I assume condensed oil from the PCV mixed with carbon from the EGR.
Once that was cleaned out, it functioned properly until I got rid of the car.
I don’t think there’s any way to safely drive it. The pedal is firm with the engine off, but it’s very soft with it running. It would be unwise to risk attempting to drive it.
The bad master cylinder had occurred to me, so I tried swapping that out as well. I think that made the air in the lines worse, although I did get some air out when I redid the bleeding.
Having spent literally an entire day, from about 7 AM to nearly 10PM attempting to bleed this stupid thing, I’m just about ready to call AAA, and have them haul it off to the dealer, unless someone knows a trick to manually actuate the ABS module without the dealer scan tool doohickey.
I don’t think there’s any way to safely drive it. The pedal is firm with the engine off, but it’s very soft with it running. It would be unwise to risk attempting to drive it.
The bad master cylinder had occurred to me, so I tried swapping that out as well. I think that made the air in the lines worse, although I did get some air out when I redid the bleeding.
Having spent literally an entire day, from about 7 AM to nearly 10PM attempting to bleed this stupid thing, I’m just about ready to call AAA, and have them haul it off to the dealer, unless someone knows a trick to manually actuate the ABS module without the dealer scan tool doohickey.
[quote=”10nico” post=39958]Hi MR2Aaron!
I did a very similar thing to fill up the gearbox of my Citroen AX; I mean using a very long transparent tube small enough to enter into the filler plug; I then routed the tube way up out of the engine bay, where it was very easy to reach, then connected the tube to a funnel then started dropping transmission oil into the funnel.
Gravity is your friend here; remember the principle of communicating vessels? 😉
I kept a close look on the filler plug, to check when the oil started overflowing.
When it just started to do it I quickly extracted the tube from the filler hole and closed it by sticking a matching size bolt into it, then retracted the tube and then screwed back again the filler plug.The trick is to use a clear tube, so that you can actually see the oil flowing into it.
Also when counting how much oil you’re pouring into the gearbox, you have to take into account the tube capacity!Hope this helps 🙂
Live long and prosper,
10nico[/quote]
Exactly; I’m not familiar with Citroens, as I’ve never seen one in the US, but the idea is the same, using gravity to do the work of pumping the fluid into a hole you can only actually reach from below. On Toyotas, you’re supposed to fill them until the fluid come back out of the hole, so it’s not super critical to measure how much you’re putting in. Just go slowly, and it’s pretty obvious when it’s time to stop.
Every FWD (or MR) Toyota transaxle I’m familiar with has an identical plug on the top, as well. It’s usually buried under a bunch of coolant hoses, and not explicitly intended for use as a fill port, but I used those with success sometimes too. You remove the side plug, and fill through the top until the gear oil dribbles out the side port.
[quote=”10nico” post=39958]Hi MR2Aaron!
I did a very similar thing to fill up the gearbox of my Citroen AX; I mean using a very long transparent tube small enough to enter into the filler plug; I then routed the tube way up out of the engine bay, where it was very easy to reach, then connected the tube to a funnel then started dropping transmission oil into the funnel.
Gravity is your friend here; remember the principle of communicating vessels? 😉
I kept a close look on the filler plug, to check when the oil started overflowing.
When it just started to do it I quickly extracted the tube from the filler hole and closed it by sticking a matching size bolt into it, then retracted the tube and then screwed back again the filler plug.The trick is to use a clear tube, so that you can actually see the oil flowing into it.
Also when counting how much oil you’re pouring into the gearbox, you have to take into account the tube capacity!Hope this helps 🙂
Live long and prosper,
10nico[/quote]
Exactly; I’m not familiar with Citroens, as I’ve never seen one in the US, but the idea is the same, using gravity to do the work of pumping the fluid into a hole you can only actually reach from below. On Toyotas, you’re supposed to fill them until the fluid come back out of the hole, so it’s not super critical to measure how much you’re putting in. Just go slowly, and it’s pretty obvious when it’s time to stop.
Every FWD (or MR) Toyota transaxle I’m familiar with has an identical plug on the top, as well. It’s usually buried under a bunch of coolant hoses, and not explicitly intended for use as a fill port, but I used those with success sometimes too. You remove the side plug, and fill through the top until the gear oil dribbles out the side port.
Something I discovered when working on my Toyota MR2s (with manual transmissions) is that the fill plug is similarly positioned, way up in there where you can’t put a funnel in the hole. The manual tells you to use a pump of some sort, but I don’t happen to have said pump, and that sounds like a pain in the neck anyway, so I came up with a different solution.
Basically, you take one of those really long trans fluid funnels, and stick a piece of hose on the end, and thread the hose down through the engine bay, and into the fill hole. You can then stand next to the vehicle and have a soda while you pour the fluid in, instead of lying on your back working the pump.
Just a thought – I could totally imagine this not being possible every case, especially in a crowded engine bay.
Something I discovered when working on my Toyota MR2s (with manual transmissions) is that the fill plug is similarly positioned, way up in there where you can’t put a funnel in the hole. The manual tells you to use a pump of some sort, but I don’t happen to have said pump, and that sounds like a pain in the neck anyway, so I came up with a different solution.
Basically, you take one of those really long trans fluid funnels, and stick a piece of hose on the end, and thread the hose down through the engine bay, and into the fill hole. You can then stand next to the vehicle and have a soda while you pour the fluid in, instead of lying on your back working the pump.
Just a thought – I could totally imagine this not being possible every case, especially in a crowded engine bay.
[quote]Quoted From spelunkerd:_x000D_
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That’s interesting to know._x000D_
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How do they line up the holes in the wheel with the lug studs so quickly? I always struggle with that step. Is there some kind of guiding sheath that directs the studs into their resp