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Thank you College man for your help.Sorry it took so long for me to get back here. I just thought I would let you know and also to help others who may have this problem. It turned out to be the transfer case.
I appreciate the help, but I dont believe its the wheel bearings. The grinding is very loud, almost like gears are grinding, and metal is being dragged under the car. If the car sits for a while, the noise goes away, and returns after the car is driven after a few minutes.
Sounds like a parasitic draw on the battery. Was any work recently done, or maybe a fender bender?
You could try to get a 1 ohm 10 watt resistor, and connect a wire with cliips to both sides of the resistor. Disconnect the negative battery cable and clip one end to battery neg cable and connect voltmeter to neg bat terminal and other lead.With everything off you whould read about 35 to 45 millivolts, If not pull one fuse at a time until you get that reading, and when you do,that will be the circuit to check,Going from the freeze frame data, it seems your lean codes was under a load condition, so I wouldn’t be looking for a vacuum leak. Check fuel trims at idle, see if they are low at idle and increase as you increase rpm.If so then its probably a fuel delivery problem or dirty mass air flow. Have someone drive the car warmed up and check your oxygen sensors( bank 1 sensor 1 and bank 2 sensor 1) at wide open throttle(be careful and watch the tach for redline) the O2’s should go rich reading about 800 mv, if it shows lean, then its either fuel delivery or dirty mass airflow that is likely. Check grams/sec at wide open throttle and look for around 150 grams/sec if so then check fuel pressure, if not then clean mass air flow.
With the car safely jacked up,(if checking front wheel on front wheel drive place in neutral) and the wheel removed,try rotating the rotor. open the bleeder valve on the caliper. If the rotor now rotates, the brake hose is at fault, if not, replace the caliper.
With the car safely jacked up,(if checking front wheel on front wheel drive place in neutral) and the wheel removed,try rotating the rotor. open the bleeder valve on the caliper. If the rotor now rotates, the brake hose is at fault, if not, replace the caliper.
Ok. Thanks anyways, just thought I’d ask. I do have another request, after finding out I wasn’t the only one really sure of how to read the wear indicator on an automatic tensioner, I was wondering if next time you find a belt that is worn, if you could show the before and after shots of the wear indicator? I would really appreciate it! Thank you, and keep up the great work!!! Congratulations on all your success!!!!
Ok. Thanks anyways, just thought I’d ask. I do have another request, after finding out I wasn’t the only one really sure of how to read the wear indicator on an automatic tensioner, I was wondering if next time you find a belt that is worn, if you could show the before and after shots of the wear indicator? I would really appreciate it! Thank you, and keep up the great work!!! Congratulations on all your success!!!!
Thank you for your replies. Drove the van all day today, temp gauge seems normal. I will top off coolant tomorrow and wait and see if code returns.
Just out of curiosity, does anyone know if its the coolant temp sensor that checks the coolant temp once the computer commands the fan on to set the code(P0841)?
If so, this would make sense seeing that the coolant level is low, and may be lower than the coolant temp sensor.Thank you for your replies. Drove the van all day today, temp gauge seems normal. I will top off coolant tomorrow and wait and see if code returns.
Just out of curiosity, does anyone know if its the coolant temp sensor that checks the coolant temp once the computer commands the fan on to set the code(P0841)?
If so, this would make sense seeing that the coolant level is low, and may be lower than the coolant temp sensor.Did you erase the code after you replaced the sensor? If so, check the harness wiring for the o2 sensor,and also the connector and the pin terminals.You dont need to replace the other sensor.
Did you erase the code after you replaced the sensor? If so, check the harness wiring for the o2 sensor,and also the connector and the pin terminals.You dont need to replace the other sensor.
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