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Fuel pressure with key on is 57psi and at idle it is 53psi. Im just afraid if i go buy a new fuel pump the problem wont be resolved. I have sunken alot of money into this truck over the last year and fuel pumps for these are expensive.
I have a freind who owns a sonoma and he replaced his fuel pump due to the sender not reading anymore. I wonder if i could take the sending unit off mine and some how rig it up to his pump and save some money? I would however have to hook it up and make sure that it makes the 60-66psi i need or im not going to gain anything. Atleast if i could make something work for $30-40 it would be less of a loss if the fuel pump wasnt the whole issue.
I have not checked for vaccum leaks but I will once I get a chance. Any other ideas as to what may be the issue?
Fuel pressure with key on is 57psi and at idle it is 53psi. Im just afraid if i go buy a new fuel pump the problem wont be resolved. I have sunken alot of money into this truck over the last year and fuel pumps for these are expensive.
I have a freind who owns a sonoma and he replaced his fuel pump due to the sender not reading anymore. I wonder if i could take the sending unit off mine and some how rig it up to his pump and save some money? I would however have to hook it up and make sure that it makes the 60-66psi i need or im not going to gain anything. Atleast if i could make something work for $30-40 it would be less of a loss if the fuel pump wasnt the whole issue.
I have not checked for vaccum leaks but I will once I get a chance. Any other ideas as to what may be the issue?
Thanks everyone, I resealed the intake manifold the leak was just external so coolant wasnt to blame. I did get a gauge from HF and it is showing 57psi which is even closer to the 60-66psi. I got a new fuel filter so it should be very close to lower spec fuel pressure wise once installed. I think I am going to replace the FPR just incase there is something wrong with it and because i have it apart.
I do also have new plugs and wires that ive had for a while but just held off on replacing until this situation was under conrol but I will replace them now and see if it helps.
Thanks everyone, I resealed the intake manifold the leak was just external so coolant wasnt to blame. I did get a gauge from HF and it is showing 57psi which is even closer to the 60-66psi. I got a new fuel filter so it should be very close to lower spec fuel pressure wise once installed. I think I am going to replace the FPR just incase there is something wrong with it and because i have it apart.
I do also have new plugs and wires that ive had for a while but just held off on replacing until this situation was under conrol but I will replace them now and see if it helps.
I was going to recomend cornwell tools as well, they have a professional quality but are generally about %75 (sometimes more, sometimes less) the price of snap-on.
I know its hard but I would check around the general area where you plan to be work, because if you spend $5,000 on cornwell in school, and get out into the work force there may not be a cornwell truck even in the area to warranty tools. Where I work there are about 3 guys that have matco tools but no matco man. So now the hundreds they have spent in matco that are broke are useless.
In my case the general area where I live have snap on everywhere, quite a few cornwell, some mac & some matco. So I invested in the snap-on while in school because I know I can get the stuff warrantied. Just stuff to think about, because tools arent cheap and warranties are important.
I was going to recomend cornwell tools as well, they have a professional quality but are generally about %75 (sometimes more, sometimes less) the price of snap-on.
I know its hard but I would check around the general area where you plan to be work, because if you spend $5,000 on cornwell in school, and get out into the work force there may not be a cornwell truck even in the area to warranty tools. Where I work there are about 3 guys that have matco tools but no matco man. So now the hundreds they have spent in matco that are broke are useless.
In my case the general area where I live have snap on everywhere, quite a few cornwell, some mac & some matco. So I invested in the snap-on while in school because I know I can get the stuff warrantied. Just stuff to think about, because tools arent cheap and warranties are important.
I use a streamn light stylus-pro pen light and a craftsman LED recharge able drop light mostly. You can get very good deals on the craftsman light on black friday, mine was under $20 for a LED rechargeable light. The stylus-pro penlight is great but they are farely pricy and run about $20-30 for a little pen light. Saber rechargeable LED drop lights by ATD are very nice, I dont own one but about everyone in the shop owns one. Stream light stingers ( about everyone in my shop own one of these as well) are also very nice, espicially the newer LED ones.
At home I have a flouresent corded drop light from harbor freight about $15-20 that is pretty good, it also has a plug in the handle so you plug a tool into it to serve as a light and ext. cord.
Just thought I would give you plenty of options with lights, these are just lights that i have personal expierence with. Good Luck!I use a streamn light stylus-pro pen light and a craftsman LED recharge able drop light mostly. You can get very good deals on the craftsman light on black friday, mine was under $20 for a LED rechargeable light. The stylus-pro penlight is great but they are farely pricy and run about $20-30 for a little pen light. Saber rechargeable LED drop lights by ATD are very nice, I dont own one but about everyone in the shop owns one. Stream light stingers ( about everyone in my shop own one of these as well) are also very nice, espicially the newer LED ones.
At home I have a flouresent corded drop light from harbor freight about $15-20 that is pretty good, it also has a plug in the handle so you plug a tool into it to serve as a light and ext. cord.
Just thought I would give you plenty of options with lights, these are just lights that i have personal expierence with. Good Luck!I would say you have air trapped in the system, it may not be all of your problem but since it is worse now and you’ve had the system apart it probably has some to do with it overheating.
Not always will flushing get all the corrosion out of the system either, sometimes the radiator either needs replace or boiled. I’m not telling you to pull the rad and replace it but rather informing you that just because you flushed it doesn’t mean it cant still be contributing to the problem.
Also make sure that radiator is always full, clear of debris, and fins are not bent over or it is damaged. I would definitely make sure that the cooling fan is working.
I don’t know everything there is to know about cooling systems but as Eric once put it…….. “I know enough to be dangerous”. Good luck, hopefully you can get this overheating issue under control.
If you rotate the end of the compressor with the engine off of course it should spin freely, with out coming to a stop or feel like it is hanging internally. If you can also rule out that the compressor itself isn’t leaking and there are no clutch problems your compressor should be fine and I would not replace it.
I would first check to see if the a/c compressor is actually engages, just so you know for sure. If it is, I would check to make sure your fan is turning on along with making sure there aren’t any blockages at the condensor. If the a/c is still not working with the compressor engaged, fan on, and no blockages I would say you have a leak somewhere, enough pressure in the system to allow the switch to send power to the compressor but not enough to allow the system to cool properly.
When the engine is at “higher rpms” is that going down the road or sitting still? If the system is weak with the extra air being pushed through vents while going down the road could cause it to feel cooler. Putting a thermometer in the vent when it seems as though the a/c is working wouldn’t be a bad idea as well because it will actually tell exactly what the temperature because just feeling the air can be miss leading as to how cold it is actually getting.
Thanks Everyone! I’m going to invest in a clutch line disconnect tool. As far as bleeding the slave cylinder, should I fill it up and then hook it up line and begin bleeding or just hook up the line and bleed it? Sorry for all the hydraulic questions but all of the semi clutches ive replaced have had a linkage except one in which the slave cylinder unbolted, and most heavy duty applications don’t have hydraulic anything but maybe a pto so i have very little experience with hydraulics. As far as the exhaust and bellhousing bolts i think between a torch and some swivel sockets i can get it. T) And yes i will definitely be using a transmission jack!
I would try the magnetic idea first but if not just pull the oil pan and pull it out through the bottom. On some cars though this is easier said than done, plus you will need a new pan gasket but if the magnetic idear or what ever else you can cobble up doesn’t work it may be next step. Good Luck.
$3.19 around here, I wonder if those hamsters that died when I was little have been turned into fossil fuels yet? T)