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[quote=”Gp.” post=51885][quote=”moparfan7008″ post=51881]….I’m having major difficulty getting these caps off on either side. It’s like they’re welded tight together. Any tips? I was using a flathead screwdriver and a hammer to try and get it off, no go.[/quote]
If you’ll give me the make, model and year, I’ll try to see if there are any ‘special techniques’ to get these parts off.
[quote=”Gp.” post=51885][quote=”moparfan7008″ post=51881]….I’m having major difficulty getting these caps off on either side. It’s like they’re welded tight together. Any tips? I was using a flathead screwdriver and a hammer to try and get it off, no go.[/quote]
If you’ll give me the make, model and year, I’ll try to see if there are any ‘special techniques’ to get these parts off.
[quote=”jeb721″ post=51774]In this video Eric talks about preps before starting this test. When he talks about the computer does a bunch of stuff when you open the door, I wana know what cars do this? Does my 2008 Ridgeline?
What do they exactly test?[/quote]jeb,
what Eric is saying is that when a door is opened, the door switch also signals the PCM to ‘wake up’. The PCM then does different basic functional status checks depending on the vehicle’s sensors and options. Almost all OBDII cars with a PCM do this to some extent, so your Ridgeline likely does also. I don’t know of any way to bypass this[quote=”jeb721″ post=51774]In this video Eric talks about preps before starting this test. When he talks about the computer does a bunch of stuff when you open the door, I wana know what cars do this? Does my 2008 Ridgeline?
What do they exactly test?[/quote]jeb,
what Eric is saying is that when a door is opened, the door switch also signals the PCM to ‘wake up’. The PCM then does different basic functional status checks depending on the vehicle’s sensors and options. Almost all OBDII cars with a PCM do this to some extent, so your Ridgeline likely does also. I don’t know of any way to bypass this[quote=”Gp.” post=51882]Hey guys,
Thanks greatly for the replies! Really appreciated.
I will give all that a go and report back!
-Gp.[/quote]
You’re welcome.
As an aside, just like all other brake parts the flexible hoses on each axle should be replaced in pairs also. (Budget allowing, of course!)[quote=”Gp.” post=51882]Hey guys,
Thanks greatly for the replies! Really appreciated.
I will give all that a go and report back!
-Gp.[/quote]
You’re welcome.
As an aside, just like all other brake parts the flexible hoses on each axle should be replaced in pairs also. (Budget allowing, of course!)[quote=”wilddj” post=51844]My tires on the front of the dakota (4×4) have some bad heel toe wearing only on the inside inch or so. The tires themselves have less than 5000 miles on them. The steering in it has about two inches of play and whenever i hit bumps, especially when going around corners the front end wants to do whatever it feels like. I drive on some really bad roads too. Im just wondering where to start. Im for sure going to get an alignment but what else could be it? I know dodges are known for ball joints going out.[/quote]
For the loose steering check the wheel bearings, suspension and steering linkages (including column rag joints), shocks and ball joints. Eric’s video is a good demonstration of this.
Lower ball joints on 2WD Dakotas should be replaced if they have more than 0.020 in. of play. Upper ball joints on 2WD Dakotas and any ball joint on 4WD Dakotas should be replaced if any play exists at all.
If I remember right, these are press in ball joints.
For the tire problem, it sounds as if camber is misaligned. While checking the steering/suspension, also check the control arm and sway bar bushings. If they’re bad replace them and have an alignment done after all bad parts are changed.
[quote=”wilddj” post=51844]My tires on the front of the dakota (4×4) have some bad heel toe wearing only on the inside inch or so. The tires themselves have less than 5000 miles on them. The steering in it has about two inches of play and whenever i hit bumps, especially when going around corners the front end wants to do whatever it feels like. I drive on some really bad roads too. Im just wondering where to start. Im for sure going to get an alignment but what else could be it? I know dodges are known for ball joints going out.[/quote]
For the loose steering check the wheel bearings, suspension and steering linkages (including column rag joints), shocks and ball joints. Eric’s video is a good demonstration of this.
Lower ball joints on 2WD Dakotas should be replaced if they have more than 0.020 in. of play. Upper ball joints on 2WD Dakotas and any ball joint on 4WD Dakotas should be replaced if any play exists at all.
If I remember right, these are press in ball joints.
For the tire problem, it sounds as if camber is misaligned. While checking the steering/suspension, also check the control arm and sway bar bushings. If they’re bad replace them and have an alignment done after all bad parts are changed.
[quote=”Gp.” post=51876]….As you can see in the image, theres dent/warp in the axel nut which seems to have been done to hold it in place. How do I get the axel nut off when it’s like this? Do I have to somehow pry the nut back into shape and then undo it with an impact?
The second image is of the rear assembly. As you can see there is no axel nut. It’s just a solid piece of metal. How do you go about removing this for wheel bearing replacement? Any ideas? I think there may be a bolt on the other side holding it in, not 100% sure because I can’t take a good look. Not that I need to replace this currently but out of curiosity I wouldn’t mind learning.
Lastly, just wondering how you go about freeing the brake hose from the assembly pictured. The one pictured is okay but on the left hand side, it’s brake hose is cracking and I need to replace it. I didn’t take a picture of the cracking one cause I was in this spot at the time and just took a pic of this one.
If anyone could help with these or shed any light that would be wicked!
Stay dirty,
Gp.[/quote]Yes, you’ll need to pry out the bent area on the axle nut enough to turn it. Then it should just come off with a socket. You shouldn’t need an impact for this. You will need to replace all axle nuts removed with new ones.
For this one, pry off the cap the arrow points to. There should be an axle nut under it also.
For this one, just remove the clip the arrow points at. That frees the hose from the bracket.
Good luck and stay dirty,
Moparfan[quote=”Gp.” post=51876]….As you can see in the image, theres dent/warp in the axel nut which seems to have been done to hold it in place. How do I get the axel nut off when it’s like this? Do I have to somehow pry the nut back into shape and then undo it with an impact?
The second image is of the rear assembly. As you can see there is no axel nut. It’s just a solid piece of metal. How do you go about removing this for wheel bearing replacement? Any ideas? I think there may be a bolt on the other side holding it in, not 100% sure because I can’t take a good look. Not that I need to replace this currently but out of curiosity I wouldn’t mind learning.
Lastly, just wondering how you go about freeing the brake hose from the assembly pictured. The one pictured is okay but on the left hand side, it’s brake hose is cracking and I need to replace it. I didn’t take a picture of the cracking one cause I was in this spot at the time and just took a pic of this one.
If anyone could help with these or shed any light that would be wicked!
Stay dirty,
Gp.[/quote]Yes, you’ll need to pry out the bent area on the axle nut enough to turn it. Then it should just come off with a socket. You shouldn’t need an impact for this. You will need to replace all axle nuts removed with new ones.
For this one, pry off the cap the arrow points to. There should be an axle nut under it also.
For this one, just remove the clip the arrow points at. That frees the hose from the bracket.
Good luck and stay dirty,
Moparfan[quote=”Doc Forceps” post=51779]…Thanks to Moparfan…for the info which solved a mystery of many years. I had begun to think that the factory just built the car around the struts!….[/quote]
Glad I could help. Just be sure to reseal when you’re done to keep water out.
Yes, Strutmasters kits are a good idea for permanent repair. I’ve been thinking about air bagging my 1st gen. Dakota’s suspension and saw them while doing research.
[quote=”Doc Forceps” post=51779]…Thanks to Moparfan…for the info which solved a mystery of many years. I had begun to think that the factory just built the car around the struts!….[/quote]
Glad I could help. Just be sure to reseal when you’re done to keep water out.
Yes, Strutmasters kits are a good idea for permanent repair. I’ve been thinking about air bagging my 1st gen. Dakota’s suspension and saw them while doing research.
[quote=”Doc Forceps” post=51387]I need to replace the rear struts on my Park. They are original, so you can imagine how bad they are. Air compressor circuit has been disabled long ago. The problem is, I can not see the upper strut mounting area. I don’t think you can acces it from the trunk…the rubber cap is there, but you can’t get a socket wrench of the right size down in that hole.
I was told by a guy at the shop I go to, that the upper strut mount has to be taken loose from the bottom (from under the car) To do this, you still seem to be working blind, because you would have to use a long extension to get to the bolts. There is no room up inside of there.
Can anyone tell me whether I need to take the back seat out to gain access? I have also looked carefully in trunk to see if there is some hidden access hole, but I have found none. I would love to have a photo to see what this mount looks like. What an asinine way to attach something.
Any help/suggestions appre….
Doc[/quote]
You should be able to access the top strut mount from the trunk without removing the rear seat by pulling the trunk side cover. You aren’t looking to undo the center nut, just the two outer ones.
here’s what you’ll need to do:
Remove the appropriate trunk side cover.
Remove the wheel.
Support the control arm with a suitable jack.
Disconnect the Electronic Level Control air tube and separate from the strut air tube, if equipped. If equipped with Computer Command Ride, disconnect the strut electrical connector from the harness.
Disconnect the strut tower mounting nuts, located inside the trunk.
Remove the strut anchor bolts, washers, and nuts from the steering knuckle and bracket.
Remove the strut assembly from the vehicle.When you install the replacements,(do both sides please) torque the upper nuts to 35 lb/ft and the knuckle nuts to 140 lb/ft.
