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[quote=”propcop” post=56723]Fast Idle Problem
Having a problem with my 2000 Buick Lesabre 3.8 V6, 98,000 Miles. 20+ MPG all the time around town.
New fuel pump last month. Also cleaned the Idle Air Control pintle and seat.
Idle is perfect at 800 RPM once it warms up.Just recently when the engine is started cold the engine idle will immediately go to 1400 and stay between 1200 and 1300 until the engine temperature reaches 185/F.then idle goes to 800.
Acceleration is normal just a fast smooth idle when cold. Outside temperature doesn’t matter it always races until water temperature reaches 185/fAny thoughts what sensor might cause this fast idle until warm?
Thank you in advance
Bob[/quote]
This sounds as if the IAC is misadjusted. Do the adjustment procedure in the service manual and idle should come down.
Let us know what happens.
[quote=”crandall” post=56729]I am replacing the fuel tank on a 96 Honda Accord LX. Majestic Honda no longer lists the tank, which would have been my first choice. 🙁
On Partstrain, I see ones for Dorman, Spectra Premium, etc. Any companies I should avoid or any you recommend?
Thanks.[/quote]
Honda online shows that tank for $551.55 It’s part number is 17500-SV4-A31. Here’s the link: http://estore.honda.com/honda/parts/view-honda-parts-catalog-detail.asp?m=1996-accord-2-lx-5mt&sn=&b=B++0301&dl=#
I’ve usually found Dorman parts to be acceptable in other makes, but as Eric says Hondas seem to prefer OEM.
Good Luck and keep us informed.
Moparfan[quote=”crandall” post=56729]I am replacing the fuel tank on a 96 Honda Accord LX. Majestic Honda no longer lists the tank, which would have been my first choice. 🙁
On Partstrain, I see ones for Dorman, Spectra Premium, etc. Any companies I should avoid or any you recommend?
Thanks.[/quote]
Honda online shows that tank for $551.55 It’s part number is 17500-SV4-A31. Here’s the link: http://estore.honda.com/honda/parts/view-honda-parts-catalog-detail.asp?m=1996-accord-2-lx-5mt&sn=&b=B++0301&dl=#
I’ve usually found Dorman parts to be acceptable in other makes, but as Eric says Hondas seem to prefer OEM.
Good Luck and keep us informed.
Moparfan[quote=”automechanic” post=56716]voltage: 12.56v
measured: 624 cca
rated: 700 cca
temp 77 F[/quote]The voltage reading is fine for a charged battery. (I assume that reading is without the vehicle running. If it’s running, check the charging system, the reading is too low.)
The measured CCA is 89% of rated CCA. That’s OK for now by itself, you need more info. Find out what the manufacturer states is the CCA needed for your vehicle. If measured CCA is less than needed, replace the battery. If not, you won’t need to replace it right away, you’ll just need to keep an eye on it. For example; vehicle needs 560 CCA. That battery will work for now. Vehicle needs 650 CCA. Battery doesn’t have quite enough amps to start the vehicle easily, replace it.
[quote=”automechanic” post=56716]voltage: 12.56v
measured: 624 cca
rated: 700 cca
temp 77 F[/quote]The voltage reading is fine for a charged battery. (I assume that reading is without the vehicle running. If it’s running, check the charging system, the reading is too low.)
The measured CCA is 89% of rated CCA. That’s OK for now by itself, you need more info. Find out what the manufacturer states is the CCA needed for your vehicle. If measured CCA is less than needed, replace the battery. If not, you won’t need to replace it right away, you’ll just need to keep an eye on it. For example; vehicle needs 560 CCA. That battery will work for now. Vehicle needs 650 CCA. Battery doesn’t have quite enough amps to start the vehicle easily, replace it.
[quote=”LJ11194″ post=56727] Am I right, or is that a fair price?[/quote]
That’s about right. Figure purchase of engine, shipping and shop’s markup.
[quote=”LJ11194″ post=56727] Am I right, or is that a fair price?[/quote]
That’s about right. Figure purchase of engine, shipping and shop’s markup.
[quote=”nunezm08″ post=56061]What’s the rod called that you place a neutral safety switch on? I have some play on that rod, and am worried my tranny has to be torn apart. My car starts in drive, regardless of what gear I put it in.
99 protege 1.6L automatic fwd[/quote]
I kinda doubt a rebuild is needed. Replace the switch, and the play should be gone. Starting in any gear other than park or neutral indicates the switch is bad or needs adjustment on older cars.
[quote=”nunezm08″ post=56061]What’s the rod called that you place a neutral safety switch on? I have some play on that rod, and am worried my tranny has to be torn apart. My car starts in drive, regardless of what gear I put it in.
99 protege 1.6L automatic fwd[/quote]
I kinda doubt a rebuild is needed. Replace the switch, and the play should be gone. Starting in any gear other than park or neutral indicates the switch is bad or needs adjustment on older cars.
[quote=”bpmorris2000″ post=55815]… I was just wondering if anyone knew how to drop the bedplate while engine is in the vehicle….[/quote]
I really can’t and don’t recommend doing this in the van. Basically, you’re replacing the main bearings on the crankshaft. It will be almost impossible to measure clearances/endplay, install bearings and torque bolts correctly. The rule of thumb I use is: accessories, top end, pistons/rods, crank seals – OK in the vehicle; crankshaft or balance shafts – pull the engine first. This is because of part weight, access problems and probable damage to parts.
That said, the bedplate/bearing cap assembly is held in place with about 20 bolts (10 around the perimeter, and 10 along the main bearing caps. Count and ensure all are removed. Then gently tap around the perimeter with a soft-face hammer. It should pop loose.
Good Luck and keep us up to date. I’ll be interested in how this turns out.
Moparfan7008[quote=”bpmorris2000″ post=55815]… I was just wondering if anyone knew how to drop the bedplate while engine is in the vehicle….[/quote]
I really can’t and don’t recommend doing this in the van. Basically, you’re replacing the main bearings on the crankshaft. It will be almost impossible to measure clearances/endplay, install bearings and torque bolts correctly. The rule of thumb I use is: accessories, top end, pistons/rods, crank seals – OK in the vehicle; crankshaft or balance shafts – pull the engine first. This is because of part weight, access problems and probable damage to parts.
That said, the bedplate/bearing cap assembly is held in place with about 20 bolts (10 around the perimeter, and 10 along the main bearing caps. Count and ensure all are removed. Then gently tap around the perimeter with a soft-face hammer. It should pop loose.
Good Luck and keep us up to date. I’ll be interested in how this turns out.
Moparfan7008A Mazda P2177 code is “system too lean off idle speed”. The car is telling you that accelerating from idle, the engine is either getting too much air or not enough fuel.
First question is: What year is the car?
Second question: Has the car been modified? (e.g. aftermarket cold air system, turbo, supercharger)
Third question: Are there other symptoms? (I’d expect stumble or hesitation on takeoff)If you want to take a shot at it yourself, try this first:(just remember to check all hoses also)
A Mazda P2177 code is “system too lean off idle speed”. The car is telling you that accelerating from idle, the engine is either getting too much air or not enough fuel.
First question is: What year is the car?
Second question: Has the car been modified? (e.g. aftermarket cold air system, turbo, supercharger)
Third question: Are there other symptoms? (I’d expect stumble or hesitation on takeoff)If you want to take a shot at it yourself, try this first:(just remember to check all hoses also)
set up your puller, and have an impact wrench handy. hold dry ice (frozen CO2) on flat area around shaft (USE HEAVY INSULATED GLOVES!! or you’ll get frostbite.) for several minutes to shrink center of flywheel. then hit the center puller bolt with the impact. that should pop it off.
when you go to put the new one on, use dry ice again to make the center of the flywheel shrink. work quickly and the new one should go right on.
good luck, and let us know what works out for you.
Moparfan7008
set up your puller, and have an impact wrench handy. hold dry ice (frozen CO2) on flat area around shaft (USE HEAVY INSULATED GLOVES!! or you’ll get frostbite.) for several minutes to shrink center of flywheel. then hit the center puller bolt with the impact. that should pop it off.
when you go to put the new one on, use dry ice again to make the center of the flywheel shrink. work quickly and the new one should go right on.
good luck, and let us know what works out for you.
Moparfan7008