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[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=57252]I like this video for a couple of reasons. The first is that I believe it encourages good work practices. Second, I think it answers to many of the statements and questions I get about opening up your own shop. What are your thoughts?
Very nice. One I’d like to mention is “Don’t let the boss be surprised.” Don’t nitpick, but look for probable problems. For example, if you see something that might be a big problem (i.e. major safety problems), say something about it rather than keeping quiet. I can pretty well guarantee he/she would rather hear about it before an incident than after. (OSHA, State & Fed. investigators, Lawyers, etc.)
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=57252]I like this video for a couple of reasons. The first is that I believe it encourages good work practices. Second, I think it answers to many of the statements and questions I get about opening up your own shop. What are your thoughts?
Very nice. One I’d like to mention is “Don’t let the boss be surprised.” Don’t nitpick, but look for probable problems. For example, if you see something that might be a big problem (i.e. major safety problems), say something about it rather than keeping quiet. I can pretty well guarantee he/she would rather hear about it before an incident than after. (OSHA, State & Fed. investigators, Lawyers, etc.)
[quote=”wilddj” post=56919]… got 43 twice, and a 56. The only thing i can think of is bringing it to work and trying to get the codes with an OBD II scanner. Any suggestions on how to fix any of these? I was thinking of starting with plugs and wires, maybe a cap and rotor, then run some injector cleaner through but im not sure why it would misfire other than that….[/quote]
Right, the code 43 is a generic misfire/ignition control code. Code 56 doesn’t exist. It’s easy to miscount the flashes. I’ve done it a lot! 😆
For domestic OBDI readers, I use a Equus 3120 Innova Scanner. Look online and you’ll find one for about $150.00 Seems like a lot, but other OBD I &II scanners are much pricier. Believe it or not, Walmart often carries it! It will also scan OBDII and CAN.
[quote=”wilddj” post=56919]… got 43 twice, and a 56. The only thing i can think of is bringing it to work and trying to get the codes with an OBD II scanner. Any suggestions on how to fix any of these? I was thinking of starting with plugs and wires, maybe a cap and rotor, then run some injector cleaner through but im not sure why it would misfire other than that….[/quote]
Right, the code 43 is a generic misfire/ignition control code. Code 56 doesn’t exist. It’s easy to miscount the flashes. I’ve done it a lot! 😆
For domestic OBDI readers, I use a Equus 3120 Innova Scanner. Look online and you’ll find one for about $150.00 Seems like a lot, but other OBD I &II scanners are much pricier. Believe it or not, Walmart often carries it! It will also scan OBDII and CAN.
[quote=”propcop” post=56885]….Fast idle (1300 RPM) continues until engine temperature reaches around 185 or higher then the idle returns to normal about 850 RPM….[/quote]
This is normal, your engine should idle fast until it gets to operating temp (about your 185 reading), then it settles down to warm idle speed.
The intake air temp sensor hasn’t anything to do with this. The sensor involved is the coolant temp sensor connected to the PCM. The PCM uses that info to decide how far to open the IAC.
If the engine is cold idling too fast, then the IAC is either opening too far, or the pintle may be sticking. Try tapping on the IAC gently during cold idle. If the idle speed drops, the pintle is sticking, and the IAC may need replacement. (I’ve never been successful cleaning one.)
Keep us updated.
moparfan[quote=”propcop” post=56885]….Fast idle (1300 RPM) continues until engine temperature reaches around 185 or higher then the idle returns to normal about 850 RPM….[/quote]
This is normal, your engine should idle fast until it gets to operating temp (about your 185 reading), then it settles down to warm idle speed.
The intake air temp sensor hasn’t anything to do with this. The sensor involved is the coolant temp sensor connected to the PCM. The PCM uses that info to decide how far to open the IAC.
If the engine is cold idling too fast, then the IAC is either opening too far, or the pintle may be sticking. Try tapping on the IAC gently during cold idle. If the idle speed drops, the pintle is sticking, and the IAC may need replacement. (I’ve never been successful cleaning one.)
Keep us updated.
moparfan[quote=”automechanic” post=56800]what should the cranking volts and the cca be be for my 1995 chevy s10[/quote]
Cranking volts should be at least 9 volts, and I like to see over 10.5. My reference says the OE battery was group size 75: OE CCA rating 525. A OE battery with a CCA rating of 690 was optional.
This may help
[quote=”automechanic” post=56800]what should the cranking volts and the cca be be for my 1995 chevy s10[/quote]
Cranking volts should be at least 9 volts, and I like to see over 10.5. My reference says the OE battery was group size 75: OE CCA rating 525. A OE battery with a CCA rating of 690 was optional.
This may help
[quote=”chevyaz” post=56781]I read in my Haynes manual about a fused jumper wire. What is the correct way to make one? What gauge wire,what type of fuse ETC,? Ive never made one before theysound very handy to have around.[/quote]
They are very useful. I made mine with 12ga wire. Use ATC fuses and a holder similar to this:
Insert a fuse in the holder that’s rated the same as the one for the circuit you’re testing. (Preventing over amping the circuit.)
The holder should be rated for 30A max. The leads can be extended (solder the extensions on if possible for the best connection) if you wish, and (usually) male plugs/terminals on the ends.[quote=”chevyaz” post=56781]I read in my Haynes manual about a fused jumper wire. What is the correct way to make one? What gauge wire,what type of fuse ETC,? Ive never made one before theysound very handy to have around.[/quote]
They are very useful. I made mine with 12ga wire. Use ATC fuses and a holder similar to this:
Insert a fuse in the holder that’s rated the same as the one for the circuit you’re testing. (Preventing over amping the circuit.)
The holder should be rated for 30A max. The leads can be extended (solder the extensions on if possible for the best connection) if you wish, and (usually) male plugs/terminals on the ends.[quote=”crandall” post=56769]Many thanks for those replies. Yes, I am a bit concerned about Honda vehicles love for OEM parts. However, these posts are encouraging.[/quote]
I’d say to go with an aftermarket tank and an OEM pump/gauge unit if budget allows. You really want to drop the tank as little as possible. 😆[quote=”crandall” post=56769]Many thanks for those replies. Yes, I am a bit concerned about Honda vehicles love for OEM parts. However, these posts are encouraging.[/quote]
I’d say to go with an aftermarket tank and an OEM pump/gauge unit if budget allows. You really want to drop the tank as little as possible. 😆[quote=”automechanic” post=56767]here is the reading with it running ….
cranking normal
voltage: 10.94v
time: 1.09scharging system
no load
14.71v
loaded
14.59vthis is the test results[/quote]
Ok, charging system voltage is good. Cranking voltage is a hair low, but if vehicle starts in 1.09 seconds, the battery is powerful enough. So it sounds as if you probably don’t need to replace it right now, but may need to in late fall. (in my opinion, your mileage may vary 😉 )[quote=”automechanic” post=56767]here is the reading with it running ….
cranking normal
voltage: 10.94v
time: 1.09scharging system
no load
14.71v
loaded
14.59vthis is the test results[/quote]
Ok, charging system voltage is good. Cranking voltage is a hair low, but if vehicle starts in 1.09 seconds, the battery is powerful enough. So it sounds as if you probably don’t need to replace it right now, but may need to in late fall. (in my opinion, your mileage may vary 😉 )[quote=”propcop” post=56723]Fast Idle Problem
Having a problem with my 2000 Buick Lesabre 3.8 V6, 98,000 Miles. 20+ MPG all the time around town.
New fuel pump last month. Also cleaned the Idle Air Control pintle and seat.
Idle is perfect at 800 RPM once it warms up.Just recently when the engine is started cold the engine idle will immediately go to 1400 and stay between 1200 and 1300 until the engine temperature reaches 185/F.then idle goes to 800.
Acceleration is normal just a fast smooth idle when cold. Outside temperature doesn’t matter it always races until water temperature reaches 185/fAny thoughts what sensor might cause this fast idle until warm?
Thank you in advance
Bob[/quote]
This sounds as if the IAC is misadjusted. Do the adjustment procedure in the service manual and idle should come down.
Let us know what happens.
