Forum Replies Created
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[quote=”docdavidb” post=66787]…As my automatic ride height air compressor is not working, I have decided ( I think) to plumb the rear air shocks for manual air adjustment. There is a kit for accomplishing this for about ten dollars. And I humbly request advice, to wit:
I have shop air, but I assume that I can use a little 12v accessory compressor to add air to the rear shock. And leave this little compressor in the trunk. Does one plumb the air fitting into the trunk for this? And if so, where? And if not in the trunk, where?
And what is a good general air pressure to run the rear shocks? …[/quote]
First, you said the compressor isn’t working. Does it self test when the ignition is turned on?
This link has an entry talking about that: http://buickforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23903 It covers Park Avenues, but the idea is similar on a Riviera.Does it run at all? Try jumping power and ground straight to the compressor (use a fused lead). If it doesn’t run unless jumped, check the wiring, fuses and relays on both power and ground sides. If it doesn’t run at all, then the compressor is likely bad.
Yes, you can convert to manual air. A 12v ’emergency’ type compressor may or may not generate enough pressure to work. You’ll have to find out what the normal ride height in the rear is, and the min/max pressures the shocks allow. Then inflate the shocks to achieve that height, and record that pressure. It’ll probably be more psi than a inexpensive unit can make.
The fitting can be placed anywhere you wish. Just remember to paint the hole if you drill through sheet metal.
There are quite a few videos on you-tube that cover this trans. It doesn’t seem to be anymore difficult than any other auto trans. Just remember that in rebuilding any auto trans, cleanliness of parts, work-area, tools, hands, etc is your best friend. I also recommend a GOOD manual or instructional DVD.
Good luck and let us know,
moparfanThere are quite a few videos on you-tube that cover this trans. It doesn’t seem to be anymore difficult than any other auto trans. Just remember that in rebuilding any auto trans, cleanliness of parts, work-area, tools, hands, etc is your best friend. I also recommend a GOOD manual or instructional DVD.
Good luck and let us know,
moparfan[quote=”Texarkana” post=66710]…Can someone explain to me what a valve throat is, how it affects engine performance as well as the pros and cons of valve throating? Thanks!![/quote]
“Throating” & “topping” are terms describing how to adjust the position where the valve contacts the seat. Prussian blue is used to find where the contact points are. If the blue is centered on the valve face and contact width is in specs, no extra work is needed (other than lapping). If the blue is too high on the valve face, the contact area is lowered by a “topping stone” My Dodge’s shop manual recommends a 15 degree stone, others say a 30 degree stone. If the blue is too low on the valve face, a “throating stone” of 60 degrees is used to raise the contact area. Remember – throating or topping NARROWS the contact area width, so the seat contact area may have to be widened slightly to return to spec. ALL THIS IS DONE ON THE SEAT, NOT THE VALVE.
This work is done to ensure a good seal between the seat and the valve. It also increases valve longevity. Although I wouldn’t do it, you might get away without it in a low buck, stock build with new seats and valves. It’s CRITICAL to do this in a high buck, high performance engine even with new seats and valves.
[quote=”Texarkana” post=66710]…Can someone explain to me what a valve throat is, how it affects engine performance as well as the pros and cons of valve throating? Thanks!![/quote]
“Throating” & “topping” are terms describing how to adjust the position where the valve contacts the seat. Prussian blue is used to find where the contact points are. If the blue is centered on the valve face and contact width is in specs, no extra work is needed (other than lapping). If the blue is too high on the valve face, the contact area is lowered by a “topping stone” My Dodge’s shop manual recommends a 15 degree stone, others say a 30 degree stone. If the blue is too low on the valve face, a “throating stone” of 60 degrees is used to raise the contact area. Remember – throating or topping NARROWS the contact area width, so the seat contact area may have to be widened slightly to return to spec. ALL THIS IS DONE ON THE SEAT, NOT THE VALVE.
This work is done to ensure a good seal between the seat and the valve. It also increases valve longevity. Although I wouldn’t do it, you might get away without it in a low buck, stock build with new seats and valves. It’s CRITICAL to do this in a high buck, high performance engine even with new seats and valves.
[quote=”Xyius” post=66404
Thank you for the detailed reply. I just did a brake job on this car and got a chance to really inspect everything. The slide pins were a little rusty, but I greased them up with caliper grease and checked to see if they slide easily. Other than that, I didn’t see any noticeable problems. Brake hose isn’t kinked in any way, and the rust isn’t out of hand.
What is making it difficult is that it seems the caliper returns slowly. It isn’t obviously stuck. Meaning, when the brake pedal is depressed and then let go, the wheel is hard to turn, even though the pedal isn’t depressed. But after I get it going, the caliper seems to ease up and allow me to turn the wheel easily.[/quote]
OK, since the caliper pins slide easily, and the hoses aren’t kinked, try the pry with a screwdriver method the thisisbuod mentioned. I think you’ll find the caliper piston isn’t returning well. If that’s true, it’s time for new calipers.
[quote=”Xyius” post=66404
Thank you for the detailed reply. I just did a brake job on this car and got a chance to really inspect everything. The slide pins were a little rusty, but I greased them up with caliper grease and checked to see if they slide easily. Other than that, I didn’t see any noticeable problems. Brake hose isn’t kinked in any way, and the rust isn’t out of hand.
What is making it difficult is that it seems the caliper returns slowly. It isn’t obviously stuck. Meaning, when the brake pedal is depressed and then let go, the wheel is hard to turn, even though the pedal isn’t depressed. But after I get it going, the caliper seems to ease up and allow me to turn the wheel easily.[/quote]
OK, since the caliper pins slide easily, and the hoses aren’t kinked, try the pry with a screwdriver method the thisisbuod mentioned. I think you’ll find the caliper piston isn’t returning well. If that’s true, it’s time for new calipers.
realfixesrealfast has a four part video on voltage drop testing that can be useful. In part four, he demonstrates a powerprobe 3.
part 1
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Sqk_Gai59I&feature=player_detailpage[/video]
part 2
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a1vR2BxJ9jQ&feature=player_detailpage[/video]
part 3
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WONhgSxeZ2s&feature=player_detailpage[/video]
part 4
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H8rl5w51fNo&feature=player_detailpage[/video]here’s one I really like though:
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ggKnH-95ty0&feature=player_detailpage&list=TLV9wFR1HamNo[/video]
the lead he uses on the positive lead of the dvom is a load pro.realfixesrealfast has a four part video on voltage drop testing that can be useful. In part four, he demonstrates a powerprobe 3.
part 1
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Sqk_Gai59I&feature=player_detailpage[/video]
part 2
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a1vR2BxJ9jQ&feature=player_detailpage[/video]
part 3
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WONhgSxeZ2s&feature=player_detailpage[/video]
part 4
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H8rl5w51fNo&feature=player_detailpage[/video]here’s one I really like though:
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ggKnH-95ty0&feature=player_detailpage&list=TLV9wFR1HamNo[/video]
the lead he uses on the positive lead of the dvom is a load pro.[quote=”Taffy R18″ post=58950][quote=”moparfan7008″ post=58928]
…
The main problem I see with HID’s are when they’re misaimed. Properly aimed HID’s do seem brighter, but don’t seem to glare badly. (Or at least to me.)
…[/quote]Hi Moparfan,
Unfortunately, there is a bigger program than just aim when it comes to HID lamps in a halogen housing. Aiming the beam downward would change where the majority/focus of the beam is, but there would still be escaped, scattered light (glare). …. Rob[/quote]
Yes, that’s what I’m finding in my research. Also it seems that a kit has to be approved by DOT and-or SAE to meet fmvss 108. As you said the main sticking point is the reflectors. Retrofits don’t appear to be approved, but if the vehicle had HID’s as an option from the OEM, the OEM equipment can be installed (must have the correct reflectors and equipment.)
So this is just too much trouble to me for now. I’ll stick to 4000K to 5000K lights for now!
Thanks,
Moparfan[quote=”Taffy R18″ post=58950][quote=”moparfan7008″ post=58928]
…
The main problem I see with HID’s are when they’re misaimed. Properly aimed HID’s do seem brighter, but don’t seem to glare badly. (Or at least to me.)
…[/quote]Hi Moparfan,
Unfortunately, there is a bigger program than just aim when it comes to HID lamps in a halogen housing. Aiming the beam downward would change where the majority/focus of the beam is, but there would still be escaped, scattered light (glare). …. Rob[/quote]
Yes, that’s what I’m finding in my research. Also it seems that a kit has to be approved by DOT and-or SAE to meet fmvss 108. As you said the main sticking point is the reflectors. Retrofits don’t appear to be approved, but if the vehicle had HID’s as an option from the OEM, the OEM equipment can be installed (must have the correct reflectors and equipment.)
So this is just too much trouble to me for now. I’ll stick to 4000K to 5000K lights for now!
Thanks,
Moparfan[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=58885]….I was not aware of the federal law. I don’t believe that states can enforce it however since I believe that traffic laws are governed and enforced by the states themselves. You bring up a good point about blinding other drivers. Up to this point I have had no indication that that’s the case with my kit. I go into detail about this in Friday’s video. I also offer a solution to those that have brought up this same issue. Rest assured, I do take it seriously. I’m hoping the video on Friday will help clear up my position a bit.
Thank you for your valuable input on this topic. It is much appreciated.[/quote]
Eric, here in WA state, the State Patrol can and does enforce the federal laws.
RCW 46.37.320
Authority of state patrol regarding lighting devices or other safety equipment.
(1) The chief of the state patrol is hereby authorized to adopt and enforce rules establishing standards and specifications governing the performance of lighting devices and their installation, adjustment, and aiming, when in use on motor vehicles, and other safety equipment, components, or assemblies of a type for which regulation is required in this chapter or in rules adopted by the state patrol. Such rules shall correlate with and, so far as practicable, conform to federal motor vehicle safety standards adopted pursuant to the national traffic and motor vehicle safety act of 1966 (15 U.S.C. Sec. 1381 et seq.) covering the same aspect of performance, or in the absence of such federal standards, to the then current standards and specifications of the society of automotive engineers applicable to such equipment: PROVIDED, That the sale, installation, and use of any headlamp meeting the standards of either the society of automotive engineers or the United Nations agreement concerning motor vehicle equipment and parts done at Geneva on March 20, 1958, or as amended and adopted by the Canadian standards association (CSA standard D106.2), as amended, shall be lawful in this state.So, if the FVMSS has rules, our law and regulation is supposed to comply with them. Now I’ll have more research to do!
The main problem I see with HID’s are when they’re misaimed. Properly aimed HID’s do seem brighter, but don’t seem to glare badly. (Or at least to me.)
Interesting thread. Liked the video, especially the install tips.
Moparfan
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=58885]….I was not aware of the federal law. I don’t believe that states can enforce it however since I believe that traffic laws are governed and enforced by the states themselves. You bring up a good point about blinding other drivers. Up to this point I have had no indication that that’s the case with my kit. I go into detail about this in Friday’s video. I also offer a solution to those that have brought up this same issue. Rest assured, I do take it seriously. I’m hoping the video on Friday will help clear up my position a bit.
Thank you for your valuable input on this topic. It is much appreciated.[/quote]
Eric, here in WA state, the State Patrol can and does enforce the federal laws.
RCW 46.37.320
Authority of state patrol regarding lighting devices or other safety equipment.
(1) The chief of the state patrol is hereby authorized to adopt and enforce rules establishing standards and specifications governing the performance of lighting devices and their installation, adjustment, and aiming, when in use on motor vehicles, and other safety equipment, components, or assemblies of a type for which regulation is required in this chapter or in rules adopted by the state patrol. Such rules shall correlate with and, so far as practicable, conform to federal motor vehicle safety standards adopted pursuant to the national traffic and motor vehicle safety act of 1966 (15 U.S.C. Sec. 1381 et seq.) covering the same aspect of performance, or in the absence of such federal standards, to the then current standards and specifications of the society of automotive engineers applicable to such equipment: PROVIDED, That the sale, installation, and use of any headlamp meeting the standards of either the society of automotive engineers or the United Nations agreement concerning motor vehicle equipment and parts done at Geneva on March 20, 1958, or as amended and adopted by the Canadian standards association (CSA standard D106.2), as amended, shall be lawful in this state.So, if the FVMSS has rules, our law and regulation is supposed to comply with them. Now I’ll have more research to do!
The main problem I see with HID’s are when they’re misaimed. Properly aimed HID’s do seem brighter, but don’t seem to glare badly. (Or at least to me.)
Interesting thread. Liked the video, especially the install tips.
Moparfan
[quote=”arthurio55″ post=57988]…. Usually i would get around 220 miles all street driven miles on a full tank (16.3 gal). Which is still worst than what it needs to be based on the mileage the company reported which should get 300+ on a full tank that is only treet driven. Today I hit the half way mark and i looked at how much I drove and it was like 65 miles. Yikes!. Is there any reason why its like this, or is there like an additive i can use to deal with the issue. Thanks a lot in advance, regards, Arthur.[/quote]
Okay, here we go.
First, you will NEVER get the rated mileage from your vehicle. Lots of reasons for this. EPA tests use a fuel called indolene that has a 92.25 octane rating. This is because all refiners use different grades and additives. (BTW, octane rating has little to no effect on fuel mileage, it’s an antiknock rating.) EPA mileage ratings are only good for comparison to other vehicles of the same vintage. In fact, the calculations were redone a few years ago, and older vehicles rated mileage cannot be compared to vehicles built after the recalculation.
Second, your mileage varies due to the total weight the vehicle has to move. More weight = less mileage.
Third, driving habits differ from one person to the next. Jackrabbit starts, different cruising speeds, number of starts & stops, total idling time, etc. For these the more or higher, the lower your mileage gets.
Fourth, and here’s one of the biggies, how you maintain your vehicle. If lubes, oil and filter changes, alignments, tire pressure checks, part replacements, etc aren’t done often enough or on schedule, your mileage WILL suffer. This one is one I’d almost guarantee.
Fifth, the fuel you use and the time of year. Petroleum based fuels are reformulated for winter or summer use. To let a vehicle start easily in cold weather, or not stall or idle & run rough in hot weather requires different amounts of volatiles in it’s fuel. You WILL see lower mileage in cold weather. Also, other than diesel, all fuels (E10, E85, propane, natural gas, etc.) contain less energy than straight gasoline. In fact, if you have a ‘flex fuel’ vehicle and run E85, you gain 2-5% in power, but lose 20-30% in mileage (Other fuels can be even worse!).So, make sure your tires are inflated correctly, plugs & ignition wires are changed as/if needed, and the filters (especially the air filter)are kept clean. You may also need to ensure the injectors aren’t starting to clog, and the O2 sensors are operating right. The only additive that MAY help is a fuel system cleaner, but it isn’t guaranteed.
Also, average your mileage over a couple of tanks of fuel-not partial tanks, it will be more accurate. You might see really bad mileage on one part, and really great mileage on another because of how the fuel level sensor is working.
Hope that helps,
Moparfan[quote=”arthurio55″ post=57988]…. Usually i would get around 220 miles all street driven miles on a full tank (16.3 gal). Which is still worst than what it needs to be based on the mileage the company reported which should get 300+ on a full tank that is only treet driven. Today I hit the half way mark and i looked at how much I drove and it was like 65 miles. Yikes!. Is there any reason why its like this, or is there like an additive i can use to deal with the issue. Thanks a lot in advance, regards, Arthur.[/quote]
Okay, here we go.
First, you will NEVER get the rated mileage from your vehicle. Lots of reasons for this. EPA tests use a fuel called indolene that has a 92.25 octane rating. This is because all refiners use different grades and additives. (BTW, octane rating has little to no effect on fuel mileage, it’s an antiknock rating.) EPA mileage ratings are only good for comparison to other vehicles of the same vintage. In fact, the calculations were redone a few years ago, and older vehicles rated mileage cannot be compared to vehicles built after the recalculation.
Second, your mileage varies due to the total weight the vehicle has to move. More weight = less mileage.
Third, driving habits differ from one person to the next. Jackrabbit starts, different cruising speeds, number of starts & stops, total idling time, etc. For these the more or higher, the lower your mileage gets.
Fourth, and here’s one of the biggies, how you maintain your vehicle. If lubes, oil and filter changes, alignments, tire pressure checks, part replacements, etc aren’t done often enough or on schedule, your mileage WILL suffer. This one is one I’d almost guarantee.
Fifth, the fuel you use and the time of year. Petroleum based fuels are reformulated for winter or summer use. To let a vehicle start easily in cold weather, or not stall or idle & run rough in hot weather requires different amounts of volatiles in it’s fuel. You WILL see lower mileage in cold weather. Also, other than diesel, all fuels (E10, E85, propane, natural gas, etc.) contain less energy than straight gasoline. In fact, if you have a ‘flex fuel’ vehicle and run E85, you gain 2-5% in power, but lose 20-30% in mileage (Other fuels can be even worse!).So, make sure your tires are inflated correctly, plugs & ignition wires are changed as/if needed, and the filters (especially the air filter)are kept clean. You may also need to ensure the injectors aren’t starting to clog, and the O2 sensors are operating right. The only additive that MAY help is a fuel system cleaner, but it isn’t guaranteed.
Also, average your mileage over a couple of tanks of fuel-not partial tanks, it will be more accurate. You might see really bad mileage on one part, and really great mileage on another because of how the fuel level sensor is working.
Hope that helps,
Moparfan