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Doublecheck the timing belt work. This is likely to be a large part of the problem in my experience.
(When something new is wrong after I worked on it, I usually didn’t do everything right. It happens.) :silly:Doublecheck the timing belt work. This is likely to be a large part of the problem in my experience.
(When something new is wrong after I worked on it, I usually didn’t do everything right. It happens.) :silly:Eric,
at 6:38 in the video, is the rear lower control arm bushing worn/torn? Or does it seem so just because the arm is unloaded?Eric,
at 6:38 in the video, is the rear lower control arm bushing worn/torn? Or does it seem so just because the arm is unloaded?Always troubleshoot the check engine code FIRST! Go ahead and pop for the OBDI reader, it will be useful.
I would replace the engine ground strap just because, as an electronics tech, I wouldn’t trust a ground that old in that environment. Or do a voltage drop across the strap (resistance checks are useless for this). If the drop is 0.2V or more, replace the strap. Remember that electricity is ‘lazy’ and wants to take the easiest path it can. If the strap’s resistance has increased over the years, other paths may be easiest (including through you!)
A bad crankshaft position sensor, or possibly distributor a tooth off will cause the engine to run rough or possibly not start. You didn’t mention these happening so I kinda doubt that’s happening.
Always troubleshoot the check engine code FIRST! Go ahead and pop for the OBDI reader, it will be useful.
I would replace the engine ground strap just because, as an electronics tech, I wouldn’t trust a ground that old in that environment. Or do a voltage drop across the strap (resistance checks are useless for this). If the drop is 0.2V or more, replace the strap. Remember that electricity is ‘lazy’ and wants to take the easiest path it can. If the strap’s resistance has increased over the years, other paths may be easiest (including through you!)
A bad crankshaft position sensor, or possibly distributor a tooth off will cause the engine to run rough or possibly not start. You didn’t mention these happening so I kinda doubt that’s happening.
The gloves you use depends on what you’re doing.
Myself, I like 8-10 mil 12″ nitrile for disposable gloves, MIG welding gloves (slightly more feel than ‘regular’ or ‘inexpensive’ welding gloves) when welding or plasma cutting. When working with sharp edged metal pieces (freshly cut patch pieces or panels, torn body panels, etc) I like High-Performance Polyethylene/ Dyneema/ Kevlar lined cut-resistant gloves. For general use or with air tools, I prefer anti-vibration mechanics gloves. So, as you can see, I have multiple pairs of gloves around the shop, not even counting cold weather ones. When you make your living with your hands, you’ve got to protect them. 😉The gloves you use depends on what you’re doing.
Myself, I like 8-10 mil 12″ nitrile for disposable gloves, MIG welding gloves (slightly more feel than ‘regular’ or ‘inexpensive’ welding gloves) when welding or plasma cutting. When working with sharp edged metal pieces (freshly cut patch pieces or panels, torn body panels, etc) I like High-Performance Polyethylene/ Dyneema/ Kevlar lined cut-resistant gloves. For general use or with air tools, I prefer anti-vibration mechanics gloves. So, as you can see, I have multiple pairs of gloves around the shop, not even counting cold weather ones. When you make your living with your hands, you’ve got to protect them. 😉Kobalt 3/8 “Double Drive” Socket set with 6 “universal” sockets. Should be nice for those salvage yard runs.
Kobalt 3/8 “Double Drive” Socket set with 6 “universal” sockets. Should be nice for those salvage yard runs.
Okay, there’s a couple of other things you can check after the tires and wheel base (front to rear at center of hubs should be 2540mm or 100 inches). As earlier, measure the turning radius. Specs say 10.8m or 35.4ft in each direction.
This is a FWD auto, so check that the front sub-frame, if any, is square in the car.
A rough test for a square frame is to use pieces of string with a nut or bolt on one end tied to a spot on the front and diagonal rear, e.g. LF and RR corners, of the frame. Measure this distance, and compare that to the measurement of the same spots on the opposite corners. If they are the same, the frame is likely square. If the distances are different, double check the measurements by starting over. If still different, the frame MAY be bent. The only way to repair this is for a good shop to do it for you.
