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[quote=”thewal” post=47205]ok thanks I will do that.[/quote]
By the way, a good wiring diagram really, really helps. That said, I’d expect that any draw is coming from the aftermarket installations (my experience).Good luck, and keep us posted.
[quote=”thewal” post=47201]thanks, what about the after market alarm, stereo and Amp? Do you do the test with all that disabled.[/quote]
No. The idea is to test the car as if it were sitting overnight. Don’t disable these for the test, do disable them one at a time to find what’s causing the draw.
[quote=”thewal” post=47201]thanks, what about the after market alarm, stereo and Amp? Do you do the test with all that disabled.[/quote]
No. The idea is to test the car as if it were sitting overnight. Don’t disable these for the test, do disable them one at a time to find what’s causing the draw.
[quote=”mcollins387″ post=47131]Hi all,
….2001 celica gt 1.8, and it has been burning oil. I took it to a shop that is new to me and I asked him to diagnose the issue (I asked for a compression and a leak down test) he came back with these numbers: 1=90, 2=38, 3=88, 4=50 and said that I needed an engine rebuild….[/quote]Most engines run 100 or more psi. #1 & 3 may be acceptable for a high mileage engine, but the big concerns are #2 & 4. The maximum difference allowable is 20% of the HIGHEST reading. #2 is at 42% and #5 is at 56% of #1. Because this is an I4 engine, I doubt a head gasket/compression leak is the problem, since these aren’t adjacent cylinders. A valve is likely to affect one cylinder, not two. Because this is a 166k engine, burning oil and higher compression (11.5:1 vs. 10.0:1 in non GT Celicas), I would suspect worn/bad rings. If possible, run a wet compression test. If the numbers increase greatly, that verifies the rings are worn or defective. If they only slightly increase, it’s likely defective valves are the problem. If the rings are bad, your only option is an engine rebuild or replacement.
Definitely ask for a second opinion/test. 1700 is a lot of money. Other factors may tell you if this is worth doing or not.
[quote=”mcollins387″ post=47131]Hi all,
….2001 celica gt 1.8, and it has been burning oil. I took it to a shop that is new to me and I asked him to diagnose the issue (I asked for a compression and a leak down test) he came back with these numbers: 1=90, 2=38, 3=88, 4=50 and said that I needed an engine rebuild….[/quote]Most engines run 100 or more psi. #1 & 3 may be acceptable for a high mileage engine, but the big concerns are #2 & 4. The maximum difference allowable is 20% of the HIGHEST reading. #2 is at 42% and #5 is at 56% of #1. Because this is an I4 engine, I doubt a head gasket/compression leak is the problem, since these aren’t adjacent cylinders. A valve is likely to affect one cylinder, not two. Because this is a 166k engine, burning oil and higher compression (11.5:1 vs. 10.0:1 in non GT Celicas), I would suspect worn/bad rings. If possible, run a wet compression test. If the numbers increase greatly, that verifies the rings are worn or defective. If they only slightly increase, it’s likely defective valves are the problem. If the rings are bad, your only option is an engine rebuild or replacement.
Definitely ask for a second opinion/test. 1700 is a lot of money. Other factors may tell you if this is worth doing or not.
[quote=”thewal” post=47192]I was having some battery issues running low, and decided to do a parasitic test as per the video Eric did Thanks by the way.
And i was wondering if this is ok for a 03 civic lx with a compustar alarm starter combo. Also have an aftermarket deck and amp installed i did a video of my test
is this normal draw?
in the morning when i wake up its down to 11,7 volts.
is it the battery that is going bad or thats enough draw to kill it?
thanks[/quote]
For any electrical problem, you MUST start with a known good battery. 11.7 volts is too low for a battery reading, ensure it is fully charged and then load test the battery. If it’s good, then check the charging system. Only then would you do a parasitic test.
Parasitic Load Test:
1. Make sure all lights, accessories and ignition are off.
2. Check all doors to be sure the interior lights are off.
3. Start the vehicle and drive about 10 minutes, turning on all lights and accessories, including the radio.
4. Shut off the engine and all lights and accessories, including the under-hood, glove compartment and trunk light.
5. Connect the ammeter (preferably an inductive clamp around style), wait at least 10-20 minutes for all computers and circuits to go into ‘sleep’ (shut-down) mode. Do not open any door or trunk lid during this time, or you’ll have to start the wait time again.
6. Take meter reading. Normal range is 10 to 30ma (0.01 to 0.03 A) Maximum allowable is 50ma (0.05 A) Anything higher indicates a possible problem that should be corrected.[quote=”thewal” post=47192]I was having some battery issues running low, and decided to do a parasitic test as per the video Eric did Thanks by the way.
And i was wondering if this is ok for a 03 civic lx with a compustar alarm starter combo. Also have an aftermarket deck and amp installed i did a video of my test
is this normal draw?
in the morning when i wake up its down to 11,7 volts.
is it the battery that is going bad or thats enough draw to kill it?
thanks[/quote]
For any electrical problem, you MUST start with a known good battery. 11.7 volts is too low for a battery reading, ensure it is fully charged and then load test the battery. If it’s good, then check the charging system. Only then would you do a parasitic test.
Parasitic Load Test:
1. Make sure all lights, accessories and ignition are off.
2. Check all doors to be sure the interior lights are off.
3. Start the vehicle and drive about 10 minutes, turning on all lights and accessories, including the radio.
4. Shut off the engine and all lights and accessories, including the under-hood, glove compartment and trunk light.
5. Connect the ammeter (preferably an inductive clamp around style), wait at least 10-20 minutes for all computers and circuits to go into ‘sleep’ (shut-down) mode. Do not open any door or trunk lid during this time, or you’ll have to start the wait time again.
6. Take meter reading. Normal range is 10 to 30ma (0.01 to 0.03 A) Maximum allowable is 50ma (0.05 A) Anything higher indicates a possible problem that should be corrected.[quote=”99Nightmare” post=47194] …. Hitting the engine with high pressure water is asking for problems.[/quote]
Agreed – if a hose is cracked or there’s a vacuum leak, the water WILL find it!
[quote=”99Nightmare” post=47194] …. Hitting the engine with high pressure water is asking for problems.[/quote]
Agreed – if a hose is cracked or there’s a vacuum leak, the water WILL find it!
[quote=”LJ11194″ post=47157]Well, no. But Champs didn’t come out of it either.[/quote]
The OE plugs for this Ram are Champion Copper Plugs. They should be number 436 I believe. Just like Hondas, Dodges don’t really like anything other than OE plugs for the long term. The plugs should also be copper, not platinum or iridium.
How I know: platinum or iridium plugs – ran poorly, $1.00(on sale)copper plugs, ran great. The only aftermarket plugs I’ve found that usually run acceptably are E-3, but that changes by car!
[quote=”LJ11194″ post=47157]Well, no. But Champs didn’t come out of it either.[/quote]
The OE plugs for this Ram are Champion Copper Plugs. They should be number 436 I believe. Just like Hondas, Dodges don’t really like anything other than OE plugs for the long term. The plugs should also be copper, not platinum or iridium.
How I know: platinum or iridium plugs – ran poorly, $1.00(on sale)copper plugs, ran great. The only aftermarket plugs I’ve found that usually run acceptably are E-3, but that changes by car!
I normally just press them in & out with the 20 ton HF press I have. Another option is to see if you can find “loaded” control arms, as I did for the wife’s car.
I normally just press them in & out with the 20 ton HF press I have. Another option is to see if you can find “loaded” control arms, as I did for the wife’s car.
I would first consult with “the yard o’ junk.”
Think they would be any good? Obviously anything is better than sounding like a boner at a stop sign because my car won’t idle…
Yes, if you can’t find it anywhere else reasonably, try this. Reputable yards usually have a good return policy.