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[quote=”Cowboykevin051″ post=47060]Just had engine rebuilt and did the run in. Everything is running well except….
When I put the timing light to it to fine tune it, it is jumping around a little. Supposed to be 10 degrees btdc, I can get it fairly close, but it’s fluctuating back and forth 2-3 degrees. It’s a brand new timing light… Not the nicest one… $30 from harbor freight.
I cleaned fuel injectors before installing. New fuel filter. New cap, rotor, spark plugs, and spark wires. Used old distributor, but it passed the visual inspection. (teeth looked ok, and there’s no play where there’s not supposed to be). Everything else in ignition system is the old parts too.
Everything else seems to be functioning well. I’m assuming this is a problem in the ignition system somewhere, but I’m kind of lost on where to go from here.
Anyone have any ideas?[/quote]
As the timing gears/chain are new, I’d test the old distributor. Even though it passed a visual, if it had a lot of miles it may be worn enough to jump just a bit. Check to see if there’s someplace local that has a tester for it.
[quote=”Cowboykevin051″ post=47060]Just had engine rebuilt and did the run in. Everything is running well except….
When I put the timing light to it to fine tune it, it is jumping around a little. Supposed to be 10 degrees btdc, I can get it fairly close, but it’s fluctuating back and forth 2-3 degrees. It’s a brand new timing light… Not the nicest one… $30 from harbor freight.
I cleaned fuel injectors before installing. New fuel filter. New cap, rotor, spark plugs, and spark wires. Used old distributor, but it passed the visual inspection. (teeth looked ok, and there’s no play where there’s not supposed to be). Everything else in ignition system is the old parts too.
Everything else seems to be functioning well. I’m assuming this is a problem in the ignition system somewhere, but I’m kind of lost on where to go from here.
Anyone have any ideas?[/quote]
As the timing gears/chain are new, I’d test the old distributor. Even though it passed a visual, if it had a lot of miles it may be worn enough to jump just a bit. Check to see if there’s someplace local that has a tester for it.
+ 1 on loaded control arm.
I’ve done them both ways, and simplicity I much prefer doing the whole arm. No other difference. Either way the control arms have to come off. Also you really should do both sides, even if only one side is visibly bad.
On this model, there are 2 fore/aft movement limiting brackets on the control arm forward bushing. Make sure both of these are reinstalled or handling may ‘feel strange’.
+ 1 on loaded control arm.
I’ve done them both ways, and simplicity I much prefer doing the whole arm. No other difference. Either way the control arms have to come off. Also you really should do both sides, even if only one side is visibly bad.
On this model, there are 2 fore/aft movement limiting brackets on the control arm forward bushing. Make sure both of these are reinstalled or handling may ‘feel strange’.
[quote=”LanEvoX” post=47358]…I just bought my vary first car. A 95 but yet emissions sticker under the hood says 97 Subaru Legacy L station wagon….[/quote]
It’s possible the hood has been changed. Look at the 10th digit of the VIN. A 1995 should be S, 1996 = T, 1997 = V, etc. Also look at the other stickers (Safety sticker on left front B pillar, other stickers in engine compartment.)
Good luck.
[quote=”LanEvoX” post=47358]…I just bought my vary first car. A 95 but yet emissions sticker under the hood says 97 Subaru Legacy L station wagon….[/quote]
It’s possible the hood has been changed. Look at the 10th digit of the VIN. A 1995 should be S, 1996 = T, 1997 = V, etc. Also look at the other stickers (Safety sticker on left front B pillar, other stickers in engine compartment.)
Good luck.
[quote=”martinfreefall” post=47214]Recently a heavy AC work was done on it . The vibration had completely disappeared after that . (i for got to mention it early ). The mechanic who did the AC said that the left ,right arms and some things related it has worn out .[/quote]
Okay, things change.
First, what is the year, exact model, engine size/type, transmission and mileage? What are the first, eighth, and tenth digits of the VIN?
Next is the check engine or malfunction light on? If so, what is the code/s. (Check for codes even if the light is not on.)Any codes present can help.
Third, Can you get a more accurate description than ‘the left ,right arms and some things related it’? I really don’t understand what is meant by that.[quote=”martinfreefall” post=47214]Recently a heavy AC work was done on it . The vibration had completely disappeared after that . (i for got to mention it early ). The mechanic who did the AC said that the left ,right arms and some things related it has worn out .[/quote]
Okay, things change.
First, what is the year, exact model, engine size/type, transmission and mileage? What are the first, eighth, and tenth digits of the VIN?
Next is the check engine or malfunction light on? If so, what is the code/s. (Check for codes even if the light is not on.)Any codes present can help.
Third, Can you get a more accurate description than ‘the left ,right arms and some things related it’? I really don’t understand what is meant by that.[quote=”martinfreefall” post=47211]The timing belt was changed about 2000km ago . It didnt had any vibrations before changing the timing belt .The car had some vibrations after the timing belt change but it was not much .
And for the codes -you mean the codes from the ecu right ? Where can I read those ?[/quote]
I’d still look at the timing belt. The key here is no vibration before the belt change, some after, then suddenly a lot.
Yes, we do mean the ECU codes. Most part stores can read the code for you.
[quote=”martinfreefall” post=47211]The timing belt was changed about 2000km ago . It didnt had any vibrations before changing the timing belt .The car had some vibrations after the timing belt change but it was not much .
And for the codes -you mean the codes from the ecu right ? Where can I read those ?[/quote]
I’d still look at the timing belt. The key here is no vibration before the belt change, some after, then suddenly a lot.
Yes, we do mean the ECU codes. Most part stores can read the code for you.
[quote=”LJ11194″ post=47196]….People on the Dodge forum recommend everything from OEM to Autolite, to Bosch to NGK. Depends on the person.[/quote]
True, we all go on our past experiences.
Good luck, keep us posted as this one’s very interesting.
[quote=”LJ11194″ post=47196]….People on the Dodge forum recommend everything from OEM to Autolite, to Bosch to NGK. Depends on the person.[/quote]
True, we all go on our past experiences.
Good luck, keep us posted as this one’s very interesting.
[quote=”bobherry” post=47206]It starts, It cranks. But the fuel gauge and the ‘Miles till E’ on the message board stay the same. :huh:[/quote]
Okay, for the fuel gauge and ‘Miles till E’, I’d suspect and check the fuel level sender unit and circuit. Start with a visual of the wiring, then test the circuit. A decent repair manual (FSM preferred) should have this procedure.
[quote=”bobherry” post=47206]It starts, It cranks. But the fuel gauge and the ‘Miles till E’ on the message board stay the same. :huh:[/quote]
Okay, for the fuel gauge and ‘Miles till E’, I’d suspect and check the fuel level sender unit and circuit. Start with a visual of the wiring, then test the circuit. A decent repair manual (FSM preferred) should have this procedure.