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Great video, Eric.
Like you, I use these methods and in about the same order. (I might grab the ‘big red wrench’ sooner if I’m working on cast iron or steel.) Your point about cast aluminum is excellent.
As an aside, what about the other way,(stripped threads)? Would you normally retap for the next larger size, or use an insert such as Heli-coils? If you mostly retap, when would you use inserts?
Thanks,
MoparfanGreat video, Eric.
Like you, I use these methods and in about the same order. (I might grab the ‘big red wrench’ sooner if I’m working on cast iron or steel.) Your point about cast aluminum is excellent.
As an aside, what about the other way,(stripped threads)? Would you normally retap for the next larger size, or use an insert such as Heli-coils? If you mostly retap, when would you use inserts?
Thanks,
MoparfanExcellent video Eric. I do have a few questions.
1. How often should the filter you installed be changed?
2. It will be more work, but wouldn’t a remote spin-on filter work as well if not better? (Assuming there is room in the engine compartment.) Especially as part of an external cooler system as rmiller suggests.
3. I see coolant filters in a lot of farm and heavy equipment as well as diesel trucks. What do you think about something like that in smaller auto engines?Excellent video Eric. I do have a few questions.
1. How often should the filter you installed be changed?
2. It will be more work, but wouldn’t a remote spin-on filter work as well if not better? (Assuming there is room in the engine compartment.) Especially as part of an external cooler system as rmiller suggests.
3. I see coolant filters in a lot of farm and heavy equipment as well as diesel trucks. What do you think about something like that in smaller auto engines?[quote=”Tomh” post=68705]I have a 1994 Honda Accord LX F22B2 (4 cylinder non Vtec single cam)….. At some point, someone butchered the timing cover, so there is no pointer, which makes timing the engine properly impossible.
Now that I am seeing that one plug looking nearly white, and certainly much lighter in color than the rest, it makes me wonder if perhaps that one cylinder is running a bit lean, maybe due to a dirty injector. That could potentially be the cause of my slight ping.
Does this sound reasonable?[/quote]
Yes it does. Two of the symptoms of preignition are ‘pinging’ under load and ‘white’ plug insulators. That can be caused by several things, including over-advanced timing and lean fuel mix. As richiepearce said check the injector for that cylinder. I’d also try to replace the timing cover if at all feasible.
As for the oil use, check for external leaks. Since this is a 242k mile engine, the compression is good and the plugs don’t seem to show poor oil control, that’s what I’d look for first.
[quote=”Tomh” post=68705]I have a 1994 Honda Accord LX F22B2 (4 cylinder non Vtec single cam)….. At some point, someone butchered the timing cover, so there is no pointer, which makes timing the engine properly impossible.
Now that I am seeing that one plug looking nearly white, and certainly much lighter in color than the rest, it makes me wonder if perhaps that one cylinder is running a bit lean, maybe due to a dirty injector. That could potentially be the cause of my slight ping.
Does this sound reasonable?[/quote]
Yes it does. Two of the symptoms of preignition are ‘pinging’ under load and ‘white’ plug insulators. That can be caused by several things, including over-advanced timing and lean fuel mix. As richiepearce said check the injector for that cylinder. I’d also try to replace the timing cover if at all feasible.
As for the oil use, check for external leaks. Since this is a 242k mile engine, the compression is good and the plugs don’t seem to show poor oil control, that’s what I’d look for first.
[quote=”mauricecoryea” post=67503]1996 chrysler cirrus 2.5l v6 mfi
For the past several months i have had a coolant leak, the source we have no idea. i had it pressure tested overnight and it held all night no leaks no nothing. that being said there is a dripping of coolant from the bottom of the car but from no specific area. it looks like its dripping from some hole/welded bracket in the frame directly under the engine, but every hose and connection is completely dry. since the weather has been so hot lately i normally check it every day…… i forgot for like three week. when i checked it there was nothing in the reservoir but an inch of sludge, but the cooling system was full. my dad wants to put stop leak in it i said no cause ive heard it can destroy your engine, but is it a good idea?
What the hell is going on, please help. :S :dry: :([/quote]
Okay, let’s start with this
1. check the coolant for signs of oil/fuel, your eyes & nose or something like this may help here: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Leak-Detector-Kit-Engine-Block-Test-Tools-Inc-/_/R-BK_7001006_0361165456 (should verify or eliminate internal leak)
2. reverse flush the cooling system again (not everything may have come out the first time)
3. pressure wash the COLD engine top and bottom, then inspect (never wash a hot engine, that can crack the block or heads)
4. reinspect all coolant system hoses and connections, including the tube that runs under the intake manifold, also all expansion/freeze plugs (I’ve seen these rot out, not often but it happens)
5. pressure test the cooling system again (including the cap, I can’t tell you how many times I’ve missed this, just to find out it was the problem)
6. if you still haven’t found the leak, or can’t trace it, something like this may help: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Dye-UV-Fluorescent-Dye/_/R-BK_7652663_0361100754 (if you have a UV light & goggles)or http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Leak-Detector-Kit-Multi-Purpose-LED-Flashlight-UV-Dye-Tracer/_/R-NTE784733_0282517238 (full kit)also-look & smell for the heater core leaking in the passenger compartment
I never use stop leak, I’ve seen it clog things like radiator tubes, thermostats & heater valves
[quote=”mauricecoryea” post=67503]1996 chrysler cirrus 2.5l v6 mfi
For the past several months i have had a coolant leak, the source we have no idea. i had it pressure tested overnight and it held all night no leaks no nothing. that being said there is a dripping of coolant from the bottom of the car but from no specific area. it looks like its dripping from some hole/welded bracket in the frame directly under the engine, but every hose and connection is completely dry. since the weather has been so hot lately i normally check it every day…… i forgot for like three week. when i checked it there was nothing in the reservoir but an inch of sludge, but the cooling system was full. my dad wants to put stop leak in it i said no cause ive heard it can destroy your engine, but is it a good idea?
What the hell is going on, please help. :S :dry: :([/quote]
Okay, let’s start with this
1. check the coolant for signs of oil/fuel, your eyes & nose or something like this may help here: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Leak-Detector-Kit-Engine-Block-Test-Tools-Inc-/_/R-BK_7001006_0361165456 (should verify or eliminate internal leak)
2. reverse flush the cooling system again (not everything may have come out the first time)
3. pressure wash the COLD engine top and bottom, then inspect (never wash a hot engine, that can crack the block or heads)
4. reinspect all coolant system hoses and connections, including the tube that runs under the intake manifold, also all expansion/freeze plugs (I’ve seen these rot out, not often but it happens)
5. pressure test the cooling system again (including the cap, I can’t tell you how many times I’ve missed this, just to find out it was the problem)
6. if you still haven’t found the leak, or can’t trace it, something like this may help: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Dye-UV-Fluorescent-Dye/_/R-BK_7652663_0361100754 (if you have a UV light & goggles)or http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Leak-Detector-Kit-Multi-Purpose-LED-Flashlight-UV-Dye-Tracer/_/R-NTE784733_0282517238 (full kit)also-look & smell for the heater core leaking in the passenger compartment
I never use stop leak, I’ve seen it clog things like radiator tubes, thermostats & heater valves
[quote=”Jinglesld50″ post=67513]For moparfan7008,
….8. If it were me, Id take a chance on a salvage yard engine cuz yeah the car only Blue Books at around $2000 however Id be doing the engine swap on this car for a family member and they are of the opinion that you cant trust junkyard engines. Believe me Ive tried to sway this opinion, even found some salvage yards that offer a year warranty on engines but all was for not. At the end of they day it isn’t my car or money Im just doing the work. Stupid to put all that money into it yes but hey what can ya do?[/quote]Yeah, I’ve run into that too. OK, here’s the place I use: https://www.sandjengines.com I’ve had very good experiences with their engines, and love their warranty (7-Year/100,000 Mile Non-Prorated!).
They do ship for roughly $175-200 depending on engine weight and distance. They also separate the core charge. (It may be more cost effective to sell the core locally). Also, for me, they’re local (about 3 miles).
If you want to see some of the processes and testing they do: https://www.sandjengines.com/Videos
Please let us know how this turns out.
Good Luck
moparfan[quote=”Jinglesld50″ post=67513]For moparfan7008,
….8. If it were me, Id take a chance on a salvage yard engine cuz yeah the car only Blue Books at around $2000 however Id be doing the engine swap on this car for a family member and they are of the opinion that you cant trust junkyard engines. Believe me Ive tried to sway this opinion, even found some salvage yards that offer a year warranty on engines but all was for not. At the end of they day it isn’t my car or money Im just doing the work. Stupid to put all that money into it yes but hey what can ya do?[/quote]Yeah, I’ve run into that too. OK, here’s the place I use: https://www.sandjengines.com I’ve had very good experiences with their engines, and love their warranty (7-Year/100,000 Mile Non-Prorated!).
They do ship for roughly $175-200 depending on engine weight and distance. They also separate the core charge. (It may be more cost effective to sell the core locally). Also, for me, they’re local (about 3 miles).
If you want to see some of the processes and testing they do: https://www.sandjengines.com/Videos
Please let us know how this turns out.
Good Luck
moparfan[quote=”Jinglesld50″ post=67353]…Specifically I’m looking for a 97 Dodge intrepid 3.3L V6. Affordable reputable company with respectable warranty. Anny suggestions?[/quote]
Okay, there are several questions to answer first.
1. Where are you located? (transport cost)
2. Stock engine or modified? (mild to wild)?
3. Used or remanufactured?
4. What do you mean by respectable warranty?
5. What price range can you afford?
6. Long or short block?
7. Crate, remanufactured or rebuilt?
8. Is the vehicle even worth repairing?Unfortunately, I think you’ll find that on a 16 year old car, #8 will be no. Depending on make/model, location and condition, the cost of a reman engine likely equals or exceeds the value of the car.
Also remember that most remanufactures add a core charge. You pay transportation cost, and budget at least 10% of the engine cost for miscellaneous materials, shop supplies, and parts you’ll find are bad during replacement.
If you are still interested, let me know. I’ll see what I can find for you.
Good Luck,
moparfan[quote=”Jinglesld50″ post=67353]…Specifically I’m looking for a 97 Dodge intrepid 3.3L V6. Affordable reputable company with respectable warranty. Anny suggestions?[/quote]
Okay, there are several questions to answer first.
1. Where are you located? (transport cost)
2. Stock engine or modified? (mild to wild)?
3. Used or remanufactured?
4. What do you mean by respectable warranty?
5. What price range can you afford?
6. Long or short block?
7. Crate, remanufactured or rebuilt?
8. Is the vehicle even worth repairing?Unfortunately, I think you’ll find that on a 16 year old car, #8 will be no. Depending on make/model, location and condition, the cost of a reman engine likely equals or exceeds the value of the car.
Also remember that most remanufactures add a core charge. You pay transportation cost, and budget at least 10% of the engine cost for miscellaneous materials, shop supplies, and parts you’ll find are bad during replacement.
If you are still interested, let me know. I’ll see what I can find for you.
Good Luck,
moparfanThe body specialist is correct. That sill appears to be a structural piece, and will be weakened by a dent.
If the correct primers and topcoats are used, corrosion shouldn’t be a problem.
In the photos, that dent appears far too deep to use any type of filler. If it measures more than about 3mm deep, it is. It will have to be brought out to 1-2mm to be filled. Otherwise you risk the filler cracking and/or falling off the car.
It will be more expensive, but for crash-worthiness and long life of the fix, I’d have a new piece welded in and refinished if practical.
Good luck,
moparfanThe body specialist is correct. That sill appears to be a structural piece, and will be weakened by a dent.
If the correct primers and topcoats are used, corrosion shouldn’t be a problem.
In the photos, that dent appears far too deep to use any type of filler. If it measures more than about 3mm deep, it is. It will have to be brought out to 1-2mm to be filled. Otherwise you risk the filler cracking and/or falling off the car.
It will be more expensive, but for crash-worthiness and long life of the fix, I’d have a new piece welded in and refinished if practical.
Good luck,
moparfan[quote=”docdavidb” post=66787]…As my automatic ride height air compressor is not working, I have decided ( I think) to plumb the rear air shocks for manual air adjustment. There is a kit for accomplishing this for about ten dollars. And I humbly request advice, to wit:
I have shop air, but I assume that I can use a little 12v accessory compressor to add air to the rear shock. And leave this little compressor in the trunk. Does one plumb the air fitting into the trunk for this? And if so, where? And if not in the trunk, where?
And what is a good general air pressure to run the rear shocks? …[/quote]
First, you said the compressor isn’t working. Does it self test when the ignition is turned on?
This link has an entry talking about that: http://buickforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23903 It covers Park Avenues, but the idea is similar on a Riviera.Does it run at all? Try jumping power and ground straight to the compressor (use a fused lead). If it doesn’t run unless jumped, check the wiring, fuses and relays on both power and ground sides. If it doesn’t run at all, then the compressor is likely bad.
Yes, you can convert to manual air. A 12v ’emergency’ type compressor may or may not generate enough pressure to work. You’ll have to find out what the normal ride height in the rear is, and the min/max pressures the shocks allow. Then inflate the shocks to achieve that height, and record that pressure. It’ll probably be more psi than a inexpensive unit can make.
The fitting can be placed anywhere you wish. Just remember to paint the hole if you drill through sheet metal.