Forum Replies Created
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Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
+1 on checking the mechanical timing, if the timing belt is off then the power band will be in a different RPM range which could explain the problem you’re having.
+2 to that ^^
+1 for what Eric said rechecking the condition of the engine. if everything checks out good you can use a scan to with live data to do what is shown in the video here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=djyyKlIVeMI let us know the results.
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
I don’t think you would need to replace the head, why not take them to a machine shop to see what they can do for you? I’m sure this would save you a considerable amount of money. First get the heads off and see what you’re looking at and THEN decide how to repair it.
+1 on everything stated above^^
Quoted From ChrisR1987:
So an initial update we have one head back on the motor, the other head we’re waiting on a new head gasket. We see where the pushrods go but Im worried about getting the rocker arms and valleys on properly does anyone know of any photos or diagrams? It’s an ’87 IDI diesel that we’re working on
well after a hour and a half of searching all i could find was a pic of the 7.3 head. here check it out. they are close to the same head. pics almost to the bottom of the page > http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/board/sho … my-92-Cent
now some neat info between the 6.9 and 7.3 far as heads go http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f30 … idi-88106/
this is weird for me im a cummins guy haha good luck my friend and keep us updated!!
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
Brake parts are not the cause of a vibration while the brakes are NOT being applied.
i MUST disagree. if the rotor is warped enough and or a sticky caliper along with a warped rotor can make a vibration without brakes being aplyed. i have just went threw this very same thing last week. new rotors and 1 new caliper fixed the vibration issue. normally no it does not work that way but it can.
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
And if the stars align just right I’ll be married to Drew Barymore. I’m not saying that it CAN’T happen but it’s not likely to happen without some sort of braking problem, or ‘pull’ to one side or the other to go along with it, you are talking about a sticking caliper after all. I can’t list EVERY possibility in my posts so I focus on the common causes NOT the unlikely ones. I respect your experience so no worries there.
well i stated it could be within the brakes because he said it just got worse when aplying the brakes. so in my experience i should fix the vibration from the brakes first. maybe i should of stated to test for warped rotors but since i don’t think he has the tools for it he would be stuck just replacing them anyways. plus the statement that when aplying the brakes it gets worse leads to warped rotor and again rotors need replaced. if the shake did not get worse from braking i would go a different way. in my area i seem to get this problem atlest once a month. many times the caliper is not a problem but it not moving freely on the retaner pins holding the caliper from being pushed away from the rotor. then when you add a warped rotor to the mix and you get what feels like a tire problem. also in my experience this condition normally does not add a pull to one side issue.
as you made it sound the first time there was no way this could ever happen. witch sounds like i was totally wrong in my statement. i know you are probably very busy and did not put much thought into it and that’s fine i make mistakes to. i just had to point it out so we would not lead people down the wrong path later.
to sum this up i am not upset in any way and completely like what you are doing here. that is why i joined and to learn from everyone here and teach where i can. i have also been watching your videos a very long time and have spoke with you threw email before. sorry for such a long drug out post but i feel it needs to be out there in order to help the people that need it.
Quoted From ThomasJEEP:
So the carb is also influenced by the heat of the engine? since when its cold it idles smooth, and doesn’t backfire as much
yes! in your case we think the carb is running rich so when cold the engine will like the extra fuel making it run smooth but once warmed up the engine will want less fuel VS air and make it run poorly. a back fire can happen from a air leak up streem in the exhaust and the rich condition will send unburnt fuel into the exhaust so you will have all you need to make a nice back fire. the still burning fuel come out the exhaust valve will ignite the mixture. back in the day kids use to think it was funny to make big loud backfires and would head down hill just turn the key off pull the coke out a totally flood the engine and exhaust then when you turn the key back on it would make a big BANG and many times blow the hole exhaust system off haha
normally in a situation like this you rebuild and replace the main parts that would have issue with sitting. even if it is not the problem right now it will be very soon.
so i would rebuild the carb, replace the points and condenser, replace plugs wires cap and rotor. doing so should fix many or all issues now and for later. each of these things could be adding to the problem at the same time. these are all maintenance items.
now after some well needed sleep i have another idea. has it been going threw water? check to make sure it ant low. also how much oil does it go threw between oil changes?
Quoted From stormchicken:
just took my daughter to daycare and the car threw two more codes. P1131 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch – Sensor Indicates Lean – Bank No. 1. Last time it was bank No. 2. And, P0135 – Heated O2 Sensor Circuit. Brand new O2 sensors on the upstream. They are Bosch (I couldn’t find motorcraft anywhere).
ok now that helps. but one issue. everything i can find shows that car has 2 up stream 02 sensors. so please make sure there is not a second upstream 02 sensor. next you need to check the wireing from each 02 sensor all the way to the computer connection looking for any bad or grounded spots. you should have a 4 wire 02 sensor. i am not so good at explaining wireing tests and i have not been able to find a good video that shows you. maybe Eric has one hidden some where? i will keep digging for a good video showing how to test the wires them selves and the 02 sensor.
don’t buy anything els just yet.
there is your problem!! you have a chip munch in your engine lol this maybe a tuff one for sure. since you have checked everything easy to see all i have would be deeper in the flywheel area or some place inside the engine. sounds kinda tinny to be any hard part inside but maybe a piston skurt broke and could make that high pitch.
are you sure the exhaust valve was closed during the test on #3? if so yes that would be a big problem. sounds like it maybe time for a rebuild.
i am late in the game here to so i did not read it all but here goes.
get your self a 90* drill or adapter such as this http://www.google.com/products/catalog? … IsBEPMCMAA
then see if you can find a long enough left hand drill bit. then try to drill her out. note after so far in you want the drill bit to stick and turn the bolt out. BEFORE YOU DRILL use some tin foil and tape to mask off everything els around that hole so you don’t put metal shavings in the engine. also some grease on the drill bit will help stop shavings from being thrown around. do a very good job masking everything. if this does not work you will more then likely have to pull that 1 bearing cap off and use a easy out.
as a very last resort you may have to just drill the hole thing out and use some healy coil to replace the threads. not a great way of fixing it so try your best to not have to do this.
good luck
Quoted From maximus20895:
I don’t know if it’s safe to turn on the vehicle with one of the camshaft retainer bolts missing. Some one could chime in on this.
do not run the car with out that bolt in there. much bigger problems will come out of it.
well i guess there are not many good write ups for the old 6.9. but i did find one with a little info. here is a few forum to dig around for info powerstroke.org ford-trucks.com DTR.com dieselbombers.com i haven’t messed with a 6.9 in years but if you need any help just ask. i will do my best for ya
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showth … 8ba091bd56