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Not much of a warrenty to read….its on ebay…its way cheaper than the rest plus i can insure it on ebay and 5he warrenty company will reimburse me
I just swapped a used engine into it on the 14th. It has new plugs, wires, aisin timing kit, checked the oil pick up tube, all new fluids and flushes before new fluids including a BG injector clean kit through the fuel tank….very aggressive..all that to be said she should be good to go. I can hear cat rattle plus the wide band is switching low undwr rich and high under lean in proportion to heavy and light throttle the down streams are narrow bands and they are switching high to rich and low to lean. All fuel teims stay within +10-(-10) which is telling me the catalytic converter is clogged. Odly enough upon diassembly of the engine i took out i found bearing failure at the connecting rod journals. It was already rebuilt recently. Whover built it didnt lube the bearings well enough or didnt plastiguage it to check for oil clearence. They also used silicone on the case halves…way to much in spots that tsb’s tell you not to. Plus your suppose to use an anerobic sealer on any case assembly that is split in half such as t cases. I will take some pics and post them in here this weekend. the bearing are narly!….nar nar
Thanks everyone for your help! Every fact shared was both accurate and helpful. Turns out my service writer was only able to find everything on the rocking arm assembly on sock-auto and the rocker arms had the wrong ratio which was holdinG the entire intake on that bank open…..which is why i had no compression and the lifters weren’t priming which explained the oil pressure …..turns out the shop we bought the new head from was quite privy to this problem and sold us a customs kit for our delema, they are adjustable also…..weird setup but runs great. A bit of advice for anyone crazy enough to attempt a resto on these monterro/panjeros…..do alot of homework and save ALOT of money. Parts are few and far in between…. it is fun to drive but it possesses no juavos. Also, i converted it from a manual to an auto which has been even more fun. i am still messing with the valve body so i will keep ya posted….again THANK ALL OF YOU!
I already put oil in the cylinders…it did nothing. And yes while I had it on the engine stand I turned it on its side and filled it with oil through the oil filter housing.
[quote=”Monkey wrench” post=188185]i recently completed my first engine rebuild on a 1988 Dodge Raider.with a 2600 series engine. We re-used the block, pistons, main caps, and intake rocker arms…….everything else is new. My plastiguage results were immaculate and everything went together smooth short of the timing chain and rocker arm assembly. So fast forward to today…..i get her up to par…pulled the plugs out and went to crankin to prime the hydraulic lifters…. the results were no compression AND no oil pressure!!! My timing marks (distrib.,crank pulley,and cam) all line up, plenty of oil…..i primed the pump upon installation like the instructions said. Here’s the kicker…its the owner of my shop who owns the Raider so you can imagine my despair. can any one help….plz[/quote]
I also did a cylinder leak down test on number 1 and i had a leak on the intake side. tried loosening my jet valves all the way to see if that would make any difference but it didn’t.
[quote=”jjohnson1″ post=177833]agree with Nightflyr. Do you spell fuel when running.[/quote] i do when i first start the car in the morning but thats the only time
[quote=”nightflyr” post=177808]Suggest you pull the spark plug and see if it is wet with fuel.
If so you confirmed a stuck open injector[/quote] this is number 3…..idk what to make of the brown stuff. oil is clean as is the coolant. when i had all the plugs out checking for compression nothing was spraying out of the clinders.I got it figured out this week end. The tensioner & water pump pulley both had a little play. The alternator sounds a little rough but not bad. The engine ran alot quiter without the belt on. I did all this in that typhoon that slammed the west coast last friday lol. So should I change the alternator also or should I just wing it and see what happens? Its chargin just fine.
I think when I get home im gonna take off the belt and runn the engine long enough to shift into drive n rev. And see if that rough idle stays or disappears
Yes it drives fine……it doesnt have the same torque it had in its younger days but m thinking you are absolutely right about the alternator. ..yes it does stumble with the ac on and the belt doesnt wobble but I do hear a squeaky tiny bearing sound though kinda chirpy….Btw 900 in rev 1200 @idle 900 in drive…..@ open loop cold= rpm however when its in closed loop& upto temp it idles @ 800 in park or neutral and 700 rpm in drive or reverse.
it has 180k, it doesnt change idle very much but ill check this morning, and i have smoke tested it at work with our little machine. havent cleaned the maf yet.
Okay guys thank you for responding. i got around to the ole bruiser yesterday and have everything back together (after throwing on the timing belt, hooking up the sensors, and starting it to listen to her pur….more like a gurgle lol) short of serp belt, kick panel, and putting the right tire back on. I filled the the power steering and the radiator so they could sit over night (i have heard that the o ring in the petcock goes bad and want to make sure its still good). All this to be said I found out the short 8mm bolt fasten the water pump to the block and the longer ones fasten the UPPER AIR INTAKE MANIFOLD(ROTFLMAO) to the lower…….yeah had to pull my head outta my…….to see that. I did try to run the fasteners into different holes but the long ones did not fit into the front of the engine block….because they didnt go there. Thank you guys for chiming in though and i hope you have a sense of humor like me. College man, i will be sending your karma when the site lets me send another!!!!
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=128733]Honestly, if the key is out and the vehicle is off, replacing that sensor should not be a problem as there would be no power to it when you disconnect it. You might be more concerned with the fuel pressure in the system when you go to remove the sensor. To eliminate that, you can disable the ignition system and crank the engine for a few seconds, this should bleed the pressure off before you start work. It may be hard to start after you’re done however due to lack of fuel psi and possible flooding. Normally not too much of an issue though.
That said, don’t put the cart in front of the horse here. Make sure you verify the issue before you go replacing parts.
Good luck and keep us posted.[/quote]
Okay, Eric…your awesome thank you. I went this morning and hooked up my scanner to verify the complaint and my scanner pulled a P0190 code from the ECM. So I was able to get a new sensor in and went ahead and changed his inline filter in under 20 minutes. It was really good to repay him for all his kindness as the local shop wanted over $400!!! After i changed it, I went in to erase the code but didn’t have to. Thanks again Eric!