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I emailed rockauto.com a little bit ago, and they’ve already responded. They are willing to send me a new part out, so I don’t even need to deal with moog! So, my next question is when I put these new ones in, when I sandwich the strut assembly back together with that little top nut, do I torque it to spec while the spring compressor still has the force of the spring, or is torquing it while its in the vehicle acceptable? I really don’t want to screw up another one, in case it was something I did wrong.
When I initially did my struts, I tried to find a quick strut set up, but unfortunately there were none to be had. I let the mounts stay put at that time. I put the new struts in back in the middle of June this year. It was a nightmare getting the spring off the old ones, due to the special tool I didn’t have. I used Monroe sensatrac, and they have treated me wonderfully in terms of ride quality. I had gotten used to the bad handling of the old struts, so putting the new ones in, my Caliber felt like a new car again. I still heard some noises from the front end, and that’s what prompted me to change the strut mounts. Its a 2009, and as of right now it has 143000 miles on it. (I’m a steamfitter, so I have to commute a lot for work.) I have no problem putting some money into her, since she’s treated me so well. I’ve had her since she had only 10 miles. After 143000, there’s definitely some worn out stuff under there, I’m sure, and I’m happy to replace anything that can’t be serviced with something that can be. I’m not a fan of the whole non-serviceable suspension joints thing.
When I initially did my struts, I tried to find a quick strut set up, but unfortunately there were none to be had. I let the mounts stay put at that time. I put the new struts in back in the middle of June this year. It was a nightmare getting the spring off the old ones, due to the special tool I didn’t have. I used Monroe sensatrac, and they have treated me wonderfully in terms of ride quality. I had gotten used to the bad handling of the old struts, so putting the new ones in, my Caliber felt like a new car again. I still heard some noises from the front end, and that’s what prompted me to change the strut mounts. Its a 2009, and as of right now it has 143000 miles on it. (I’m a steamfitter, so I have to commute a lot for work.) I have no problem putting some money into her, since she’s treated me so well. I’ve had her since she had only 10 miles. After 143000, there’s definitely some worn out stuff under there, I’m sure, and I’m happy to replace anything that can’t be serviced with something that can be. I’m not a fan of the whole non-serviceable suspension joints thing.
That’s what I’m thinking. I got the parts from rockauto.com, but I’m thinking I should be contacting moog and see what the deal is. I’ve used a few of their parts over the years, and they’ve all seemed to be ok. Does anyone have any advice on moog, be it good or bad? The old bearings are metal, and I may be putting them back in there. The new mounts didn’t solve the original noises anyway! I have a funny feeling that I’ll be rebuilding the whole front suspension, but it’s all good. Next to replace will be inner tie rods, end links, and stabilizer bar bushings. I’ll probably do the control arms again, because I would really like the ability to grease the ball joints instead of just waiting for them to rot out and fail.
That’s what I’m thinking. I got the parts from rockauto.com, but I’m thinking I should be contacting moog and see what the deal is. I’ve used a few of their parts over the years, and they’ve all seemed to be ok. Does anyone have any advice on moog, be it good or bad? The old bearings are metal, and I may be putting them back in there. The new mounts didn’t solve the original noises anyway! I have a funny feeling that I’ll be rebuilding the whole front suspension, but it’s all good. Next to replace will be inner tie rods, end links, and stabilizer bar bushings. I’ll probably do the control arms again, because I would really like the ability to grease the ball joints instead of just waiting for them to rot out and fail.
Hey folks, let me start off with saying I’m so sorry that I haven’t updated any sooner than this. It’s been a very busy and tiring few days, and my temporary solution for the car was to turn the radio up… lol! But anyway, the strut mounts for this car are triangular, and they fit in the same no matter how they are installed. I haven’t had the chance to get completely under it, but I know the noise goes away when the car is up off the ground. (i found that out by trying my new jack that i bought yesterday. got tired of using the scissor one that came with it) I also found out something that shows me close to what the problem is. While the vehicle was turned on, and sitting normally on the ground, I moved my steering wheel back and forth while holding the spring in different locations to see if I could feel anything. As it turns out, the bottom moves smoothly and consistently. However, when I put my hand up toward the upper mount, I can feel the top part of the spring sticking and releasing as the strut moves through its turning. The spring is properly seated at the stops on the top and bottom mounts. The only thing I can think that it could be is the strut bearings binding and releasing. They are brand new, and I have no idea why they would be doing this. They are the plastic bearings that came with the moog strut mount kit. I torqued them after the strut had spring tension back on it, and it was installed. Has anyone had this happen?
Hey folks, let me start off with saying I’m so sorry that I haven’t updated any sooner than this. It’s been a very busy and tiring few days, and my temporary solution for the car was to turn the radio up… lol! But anyway, the strut mounts for this car are triangular, and they fit in the same no matter how they are installed. I haven’t had the chance to get completely under it, but I know the noise goes away when the car is up off the ground. (i found that out by trying my new jack that i bought yesterday. got tired of using the scissor one that came with it) I also found out something that shows me close to what the problem is. While the vehicle was turned on, and sitting normally on the ground, I moved my steering wheel back and forth while holding the spring in different locations to see if I could feel anything. As it turns out, the bottom moves smoothly and consistently. However, when I put my hand up toward the upper mount, I can feel the top part of the spring sticking and releasing as the strut moves through its turning. The spring is properly seated at the stops on the top and bottom mounts. The only thing I can think that it could be is the strut bearings binding and releasing. They are brand new, and I have no idea why they would be doing this. They are the plastic bearings that came with the moog strut mount kit. I torqued them after the strut had spring tension back on it, and it was installed. Has anyone had this happen?
Hey folks, sorry I didn’t get a chance to reply until now. I haven’t had a chance to lift the vehicle up and see if the noise still happens with everything unloaded. I should have some time to check that out tomorrow. Also, thanks for the link! I’ll give that a look before I climb back under it, and hopefully I can get a little better listen of it. I wonder if it’s the new strut bearings. My old ones were metal, but the ones that came with my moog kit were plastic. When I installed them, I waited until I took the spring compressor off and had the assemblies both back in the vehicle before I put the final torque on them. It said it was supposed to be 44 ft lbs. Does this sound about right to everyone? I can’t wait to get back under there and find this noise!!
Hey folks, sorry I didn’t get a chance to reply until now. I haven’t had a chance to lift the vehicle up and see if the noise still happens with everything unloaded. I should have some time to check that out tomorrow. Also, thanks for the link! I’ll give that a look before I climb back under it, and hopefully I can get a little better listen of it. I wonder if it’s the new strut bearings. My old ones were metal, but the ones that came with my moog kit were plastic. When I installed them, I waited until I took the spring compressor off and had the assemblies both back in the vehicle before I put the final torque on them. It said it was supposed to be 44 ft lbs. Does this sound about right to everyone? I can’t wait to get back under there and find this noise!!
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