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Hi there! I can almost certainly say that its not a case of putting gas in instead of diesel. Reason I can say this is our schedule is that we always see each other on the weekends, because we live far apart. She always fills the car up in my region, because its a bit cheaper up this way. She doesn’t drive too far to work, so usually she only drives the tank down about a third during the course of the week, including her trip up here. I’m very envious of this, because i drive about 80 miles a day for work! Should have gotten a diesel myself!
She did manage to call the local VW dealer yesterday. From her description, the person she spoke with was a bit less than courteous to her, and wanted to charge a $125 diagnostic fee to check and see what the problem was. I avoid dealers and shops as much as I can, so is this a common practice? If it is indeed a warranty repair, should she have to be paying anything? It just sounds a little funny to me. When I read the info about the power train warranty, it seemed to cover items internal to the engine, as well as the manifolds. Would this include the lines and sensors for the turbo system? Or perhaps for other systems that are in play for controlling the engine? I’m not sure what their diagnostic test would include, but for $125, I would hope that it’s a little more in depth than plugging in a reader and seeing if the computer has any stored codes.
The last we spoke of it, she was going to check around for local garages that are equipped to deal with VW’s, and see if she couldn’t get it checked out for a lesser price. I hope she keeps the momentum going on this, because it scares me with her driving this thing back and forth when it just randomly drops out.
While I’m thinking of it, she also has a relatively short trip to work each day. I’ve heard in the past that diesel engines like more to run on the highway for awhile, as opposed to a little low speed trip to work each day. Is there any truth to this? Perhaps the engine has gotten dirtier this way? As everyone has said so far, the engine is very young to be having such a crazy issue. Thanks again everyone for all the wonderful advice, and please keep it coming! I’ll be sure to keep you all posted on what we find out.
Hi there! I can almost certainly say that its not a case of putting gas in instead of diesel. Reason I can say this is our schedule is that we always see each other on the weekends, because we live far apart. She always fills the car up in my region, because its a bit cheaper up this way. She doesn’t drive too far to work, so usually she only drives the tank down about a third during the course of the week, including her trip up here. I’m very envious of this, because i drive about 80 miles a day for work! Should have gotten a diesel myself!
She did manage to call the local VW dealer yesterday. From her description, the person she spoke with was a bit less than courteous to her, and wanted to charge a $125 diagnostic fee to check and see what the problem was. I avoid dealers and shops as much as I can, so is this a common practice? If it is indeed a warranty repair, should she have to be paying anything? It just sounds a little funny to me. When I read the info about the power train warranty, it seemed to cover items internal to the engine, as well as the manifolds. Would this include the lines and sensors for the turbo system? Or perhaps for other systems that are in play for controlling the engine? I’m not sure what their diagnostic test would include, but for $125, I would hope that it’s a little more in depth than plugging in a reader and seeing if the computer has any stored codes.
The last we spoke of it, she was going to check around for local garages that are equipped to deal with VW’s, and see if she couldn’t get it checked out for a lesser price. I hope she keeps the momentum going on this, because it scares me with her driving this thing back and forth when it just randomly drops out.
While I’m thinking of it, she also has a relatively short trip to work each day. I’ve heard in the past that diesel engines like more to run on the highway for awhile, as opposed to a little low speed trip to work each day. Is there any truth to this? Perhaps the engine has gotten dirtier this way? As everyone has said so far, the engine is very young to be having such a crazy issue. Thanks again everyone for all the wonderful advice, and please keep it coming! I’ll be sure to keep you all posted on what we find out.
It’s definitely an awesome little car. I love the way it drives on the highway, especially. As you stated, so much low end torque! You barely have to get on it to speed up and merge, and overtaking is a breeze. I used to have a Ford e350 with the 7.3 international motor in it, and while it was the less powerful version of that motor that they put in the vans, you could pretty much throw whatever you wanted in the back, and the engine didn’t know it was pulling anything. That had 215hp, and 425 ft lb of torque. That’s when I really started to enjoy diesels. Man, I miss that truck!
My own car is a Dodge Caliber, and while I love it, even after 164000 miles, I can’t help but wish a little that it was the euro version, because it had basically the same engine as the jetta, or at least close to it, if my memory is correct. I would have went for that engine if they were sold in the USA. I commute a lot, and it would have made the highway a lot more tolerable, especially with fuel efficiency. We calculated her fuel economy when going on a long trip, and I think it had 46 by the computer, and about 43 by my by-hand calculations. Not too shabby for an automatic. Another friend of mine has the 2011 diesel with the manual transmission, and his computer is telling him close to 60! But as I said, I love my Caliber, and have no regrets with it. And now I’m starting to ramble… lol!
Anyhow, she didn’t get a chance to call the Volkswagen dealer today. She’s going to give it another try tomorrow. I’m anxious to see what this problem is, and I will most definitely share all that we find out about it. And let me tell you, she loves that car, and there is absolutely no way she will let them buy it back from her! (I sure would miss driving it!)
It’s definitely an awesome little car. I love the way it drives on the highway, especially. As you stated, so much low end torque! You barely have to get on it to speed up and merge, and overtaking is a breeze. I used to have a Ford e350 with the 7.3 international motor in it, and while it was the less powerful version of that motor that they put in the vans, you could pretty much throw whatever you wanted in the back, and the engine didn’t know it was pulling anything. That had 215hp, and 425 ft lb of torque. That’s when I really started to enjoy diesels. Man, I miss that truck!
My own car is a Dodge Caliber, and while I love it, even after 164000 miles, I can’t help but wish a little that it was the euro version, because it had basically the same engine as the jetta, or at least close to it, if my memory is correct. I would have went for that engine if they were sold in the USA. I commute a lot, and it would have made the highway a lot more tolerable, especially with fuel efficiency. We calculated her fuel economy when going on a long trip, and I think it had 46 by the computer, and about 43 by my by-hand calculations. Not too shabby for an automatic. Another friend of mine has the 2011 diesel with the manual transmission, and his computer is telling him close to 60! But as I said, I love my Caliber, and have no regrets with it. And now I’m starting to ramble… lol!
Anyhow, she didn’t get a chance to call the Volkswagen dealer today. She’s going to give it another try tomorrow. I’m anxious to see what this problem is, and I will most definitely share all that we find out about it. And let me tell you, she loves that car, and there is absolutely no way she will let them buy it back from her! (I sure would miss driving it!)
She isn’t the original owner, but we were looking into its warranty paperwork this morning, and it’s still within its 5 year mark. The power train should still be covered. She is planning to call the dealer tomorrow. I’m not sure if my code reader is VagComm compatible, but I’m assuming its probably not. It was only 40 bucks at advance auto, so I’m sure its not too complex… lol! This is my first attempt at troubleshooting a diesel, and it’s definitely been a learning experience. I knew they have a lot of complicated systems in them, but the more I read, the deeper it gets. In a weird sort of way, I’m enjoying it as well. I have always found engine tech very interesting. But I digress.
It’s very good to know that the engine in hers is a strong one. I’m pretty sure whatever the issue that its having will be covered by the warranty, so I’m not tearing it all apart just yet. I’m never one to jump in over my head with these sorts of things.
She isn’t the original owner, but we were looking into its warranty paperwork this morning, and it’s still within its 5 year mark. The power train should still be covered. She is planning to call the dealer tomorrow. I’m not sure if my code reader is VagComm compatible, but I’m assuming its probably not. It was only 40 bucks at advance auto, so I’m sure its not too complex… lol! This is my first attempt at troubleshooting a diesel, and it’s definitely been a learning experience. I knew they have a lot of complicated systems in them, but the more I read, the deeper it gets. In a weird sort of way, I’m enjoying it as well. I have always found engine tech very interesting. But I digress.
It’s very good to know that the engine in hers is a strong one. I’m pretty sure whatever the issue that its having will be covered by the warranty, so I’m not tearing it all apart just yet. I’m never one to jump in over my head with these sorts of things.
Thanks everyone for all the great info so far. The car is a 2010, and has about 35000 miles on it. The engine is a 2.0 turbo diesel. When I try to pull up the codes, my reader says that there are none, and there aren’t any saved on the computer either. It sounds crazy to me that it wouldn’t even save them, especially with the severity that comes along with some of the issues that the glow plug light could be indicating. It’s making me crazy how the issues are so diverse, and how it’s been difficult to find a place to start the troubleshooting process. It’s one of those problems that just hides away until the most inconvenient time, such as last week when she was going home on 95, and had to pull over on the left side, which made merging a terrible experience for her.
As far as trying to pull the code as soon as it has the issue, will my reader be able to read it without me shutting off the car? I thought that you had to turn the car off and then plug the reader in. If I were to do that, then the problem would just disappear again.
Based on what experience I have with things like this, which isn’t too extensive, it sounds like a sensor is “freaking out” for an instant, perhaps due to some event. Once the car is resets, it sees everything as normal once again, and performs just as it always did, until another instant occurs. I saw that some mentioned problems such as water in the intercooler, or fuel pressure or fuel filter issues, so would those be good places to try and start to look? I’m not sure that these would be the issue, because I wouldn’t think that these would disappear by turning the car off and on again, but if its a place to start, then I’m happy to check it out.
Thanks everyone for all the great info so far. The car is a 2010, and has about 35000 miles on it. The engine is a 2.0 turbo diesel. When I try to pull up the codes, my reader says that there are none, and there aren’t any saved on the computer either. It sounds crazy to me that it wouldn’t even save them, especially with the severity that comes along with some of the issues that the glow plug light could be indicating. It’s making me crazy how the issues are so diverse, and how it’s been difficult to find a place to start the troubleshooting process. It’s one of those problems that just hides away until the most inconvenient time, such as last week when she was going home on 95, and had to pull over on the left side, which made merging a terrible experience for her.
As far as trying to pull the code as soon as it has the issue, will my reader be able to read it without me shutting off the car? I thought that you had to turn the car off and then plug the reader in. If I were to do that, then the problem would just disappear again.
Based on what experience I have with things like this, which isn’t too extensive, it sounds like a sensor is “freaking out” for an instant, perhaps due to some event. Once the car is resets, it sees everything as normal once again, and performs just as it always did, until another instant occurs. I saw that some mentioned problems such as water in the intercooler, or fuel pressure or fuel filter issues, so would those be good places to try and start to look? I’m not sure that these would be the issue, because I wouldn’t think that these would disappear by turning the car off and on again, but if its a place to start, then I’m happy to check it out.
That’s good to know. My heart just sank when I opened the box and didn’t see that little brass cover on the bottom of the joint. I just always try and go with items that are more service friendly if I can. Hopefully they will last a long time, and when they do fail, I’m hoping to get the problem solver ball joints to replace them with. At this point I’m praying that this is the cause of the noise. It definitely needs replacing, due to the play, but with my luck, the noise will persist! Haha! I gotta say, it’s been an education working on it, and I really do enjoy it.
That’s good to know. My heart just sank when I opened the box and didn’t see that little brass cover on the bottom of the joint. I just always try and go with items that are more service friendly if I can. Hopefully they will last a long time, and when they do fail, I’m hoping to get the problem solver ball joints to replace them with. At this point I’m praying that this is the cause of the noise. It definitely needs replacing, due to the play, but with my luck, the noise will persist! Haha! I gotta say, it’s been an education working on it, and I really do enjoy it.
Hello, everyone! I’m back with an update on the Caliber. I reinstalled the stock strut mounts, and I torqued the nut on the stop of the strut to 44 lbs with the spring still compressed (I read the manual a bit closer this time). I reinstalled everything, and there is no more annoying spring noise! Rock auto was great about letting me return the mounts. When I removed them, I tried to rotate the bearings a bit, to see if I could feel any binding in them. They felt ok, but maybe when they were installed, the weight was making the defects more obvious. (or maybe I just didn’t torque everything back in the right order! LOL!) Anyhow, I’m going to leave those mounts in there for now, until they start to wear down some more. After all this, I know exactly what to look for!
Some more good news: I found what was causing all the noises in the first place. Lower ball joint is starting to go bad. The car would occasionally make noises over larger bumps, and when turning the steering wheel. When I had everything apart, I got a really close look, and I could see the play in it when I pulled on the spindle. I have already done the control arms about a year and a half ago, and they have roughly 35-40k on them. I noticed a small knick on the boot, and I’m guessing water got in it. The right one is fine, but I’m going to do both anyway. I bought some Moog R series, which just came today, but unfortunately they don’t have the grease fittings in them, when I thought they did. I don’t feel like dealing with the return process once again, so I think I’m just gonna install them and get the problem solver ball joints whenever it’s time to replace them again. (of course, that was supposed to be the plan for this time, but oh well.) I want to thank everyone for all the advice, as it was a great help to figuring this out! B)
Hello, everyone! I’m back with an update on the Caliber. I reinstalled the stock strut mounts, and I torqued the nut on the stop of the strut to 44 lbs with the spring still compressed (I read the manual a bit closer this time). I reinstalled everything, and there is no more annoying spring noise! Rock auto was great about letting me return the mounts. When I removed them, I tried to rotate the bearings a bit, to see if I could feel any binding in them. They felt ok, but maybe when they were installed, the weight was making the defects more obvious. (or maybe I just didn’t torque everything back in the right order! LOL!) Anyhow, I’m going to leave those mounts in there for now, until they start to wear down some more. After all this, I know exactly what to look for!
Some more good news: I found what was causing all the noises in the first place. Lower ball joint is starting to go bad. The car would occasionally make noises over larger bumps, and when turning the steering wheel. When I had everything apart, I got a really close look, and I could see the play in it when I pulled on the spindle. I have already done the control arms about a year and a half ago, and they have roughly 35-40k on them. I noticed a small knick on the boot, and I’m guessing water got in it. The right one is fine, but I’m going to do both anyway. I bought some Moog R series, which just came today, but unfortunately they don’t have the grease fittings in them, when I thought they did. I don’t feel like dealing with the return process once again, so I think I’m just gonna install them and get the problem solver ball joints whenever it’s time to replace them again. (of course, that was supposed to be the plan for this time, but oh well.) I want to thank everyone for all the advice, as it was a great help to figuring this out! B)
I hate to post so much so quickly, but I have to amend an error I made in an earlier post. The stock bearings were also plastic. They were black in color, and I hadn’t looked at them closely.
I hate to post so much so quickly, but I have to amend an error I made in an earlier post. The stock bearings were also plastic. They were black in color, and I hadn’t looked at them closely.
I emailed rockauto.com a little bit ago, and they’ve already responded. They are willing to send me a new part out, so I don’t even need to deal with moog! So, my next question is when I put these new ones in, when I sandwich the strut assembly back together with that little top nut, do I torque it to spec while the spring compressor still has the force of the spring, or is torquing it while its in the vehicle acceptable? I really don’t want to screw up another one, in case it was something I did wrong.