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Thanks for the new video on scan tools!
Looking forward to any information you think might be pertinent for us. It’s an idea I’ve been looking for help with for awhile now.
Looking forward to any information you think might be pertinent for us. It’s an idea I’ve been looking for help with for awhile now.
Thanks for the info. I’d kind of expected that they all read data and codes, but I’ll be sure to check into that the next time I look at them – so thanks for pointing that out to me. My OBDII vehicle is a 2004 Mustang GT, 4.6L SOHC, 5 speed. Obviously I don’t need a scanner for shift points, and it doesn’t have variable timing so there are a lot of things I don’t have to wonder about. There have been a number of times when I got to one or another “black box” under the hood and couldn’t tell what was going on. Once was with the CCRM in the cooling system and another was with the PCV valve. If I could scan the PCM, or test circuitry through the PCM with a scanner, this would be a big asset to me. I’ve been on Amazon but without actually hooking up the scanner I can’t tell what options it’s going to give me toward that end. I don’t really want to throw $200-$300 at a good scanner without some idea that it’s going to do what I want it to do.
Thanks for the info. I’d kind of expected that they all read data and codes, but I’ll be sure to check into that the next time I look at them – so thanks for pointing that out to me. My OBDII vehicle is a 2004 Mustang GT, 4.6L SOHC, 5 speed. Obviously I don’t need a scanner for shift points, and it doesn’t have variable timing so there are a lot of things I don’t have to wonder about. There have been a number of times when I got to one or another “black box” under the hood and couldn’t tell what was going on. Once was with the CCRM in the cooling system and another was with the PCV valve. If I could scan the PCM, or test circuitry through the PCM with a scanner, this would be a big asset to me. I’ve been on Amazon but without actually hooking up the scanner I can’t tell what options it’s going to give me toward that end. I don’t really want to throw $200-$300 at a good scanner without some idea that it’s going to do what I want it to do.
I’ve been working on cars for 15 years or so, but never as a bona fide mechanic. The OBDI vehicle in question was a truck that I bought for $10 6 years and 70k miles ago, and there are very few systems left that I haven’t overhauled. While working as an auto damage adjuster for one of the big name insurance companies I got some professional training, but nothing too extensive. The point of the matter is that I have a fair amount of experience, and I can download and look up codes from the scanners to extract information. I’d also like some diagnostic functionality, but I don’t know how that varies from make to make, model to model, scanner to scanner.
As you stated above, there are dozens of OBDI/II scanners on the market. Without having used any of them, I don’t know what to buy that’s going to suit my needs. I’m trying to get into a scanner that’s going to be useful at my level, and that’s my question here.
I’ve been working on cars for 15 years or so, but never as a bona fide mechanic. The OBDI vehicle in question was a truck that I bought for $10 6 years and 70k miles ago, and there are very few systems left that I haven’t overhauled. While working as an auto damage adjuster for one of the big name insurance companies I got some professional training, but nothing too extensive. The point of the matter is that I have a fair amount of experience, and I can download and look up codes from the scanners to extract information. I’d also like some diagnostic functionality, but I don’t know how that varies from make to make, model to model, scanner to scanner.
As you stated above, there are dozens of OBDI/II scanners on the market. Without having used any of them, I don’t know what to buy that’s going to suit my needs. I’m trying to get into a scanner that’s going to be useful at my level, and that’s my question here.
Have you done anything with the oil lately? I put a synthetic blend into an older car one time without realizing it wasn’t conventional and had a similar noise develop. I actually didn’t realize it was a blend until the noise started and I went back and checked the bottle. If it’s head noise, it could be seem to be coming from the pulleys. Just a thought.
I’ve got an 04 GT as well, so I’m always interested in knowing what people are doing with them, or what common problems are.
Have you done anything with the oil lately? I put a synthetic blend into an older car one time without realizing it wasn’t conventional and had a similar noise develop. I actually didn’t realize it was a blend until the noise started and I went back and checked the bottle. If it’s head noise, it could be seem to be coming from the pulleys. Just a thought.
I’ve got an 04 GT as well, so I’m always interested in knowing what people are doing with them, or what common problems are.
Wow, a response from the man himself. Thanks Eric. It is a manual, do you know what that part is called?
If you happen to see this, I had a video idea. I’m in the market for an OBDII scanner for my 2004 Mustang GT, but I’ve never owned one and don’t know much about how to use or select them. I know some of them just scan and some can activate systems in the car, clear trouble codes, etc. Also, I’m sure you’ve got one in your shop, because I’ve seen it in your videos. Maybe share your thoughts with us?
Wow, a response from the man himself. Thanks Eric. It is a manual, do you know what that part is called?
If you happen to see this, I had a video idea. I’m in the market for an OBDII scanner for my 2004 Mustang GT, but I’ve never owned one and don’t know much about how to use or select them. I know some of them just scan and some can activate systems in the car, clear trouble codes, etc. Also, I’m sure you’ve got one in your shop, because I’ve seen it in your videos. Maybe share your thoughts with us?
I got back around to this project after having been on vacation, work, etc… Weather here has cooled down into the temperature range where I’d been seeing the issues. A couple weeks ago, I cleaned out the IAC with MAF cleaner really well and completely took out the idle set screw. That and the socket it screws into had a ton of deposits built up in it and I think I was able to get them all out. Since then the hesitation problem has disappeared, but I was having high-idle issues. Figured that out too. Where the linkage connects to the throttle body, there is a little damper that the linkage connector hits when you let off the gas pedal. The function of this piece appears to be keeping the throttle plate from jamming shut all at once, choking off the engine if it’s still under load. Anyway, the thing gums up from time to time. I’ve had the truck since 07 and I’ve had to clean it a few times. All it does is force air through a small hole so that the piston goes down slowly, and thus the throttle plate closes slowly. Anyway, got that figured out and the truck’s running better than it has since I got it. Just wanted to stop by, say thanks and let you know that your help was definitely put to good use.
I got back around to this project after having been on vacation, work, etc… Weather here has cooled down into the temperature range where I’d been seeing the issues. A couple weeks ago, I cleaned out the IAC with MAF cleaner really well and completely took out the idle set screw. That and the socket it screws into had a ton of deposits built up in it and I think I was able to get them all out. Since then the hesitation problem has disappeared, but I was having high-idle issues. Figured that out too. Where the linkage connects to the throttle body, there is a little damper that the linkage connector hits when you let off the gas pedal. The function of this piece appears to be keeping the throttle plate from jamming shut all at once, choking off the engine if it’s still under load. Anyway, the thing gums up from time to time. I’ve had the truck since 07 and I’ve had to clean it a few times. All it does is force air through a small hole so that the piston goes down slowly, and thus the throttle plate closes slowly. Anyway, got that figured out and the truck’s running better than it has since I got it. Just wanted to stop by, say thanks and let you know that your help was definitely put to good use.
I’ve cleaned the throttle body because when I bought the truck I had trouble with it for awhile trying to stick closed after it sat overnight. I hadn’t cleaned the IAC because I wasn’t sure how it worked until I just looked up a schematic on it. I knew fuel injected engines had to have that function, but I didn’t know how it was accomplished. I have checked for vacuum leaks but didn’t see anything obvious.
I also looked at the MAF sensor again today, and I think that there is an air temperature sensor inside of it.
Right now the weather in California is beautiful and the truck is running great, so it might be awhile before I can really put any results to the test. I’m going to take the intake apart all the way up to the throttle body, go back over that as best I can and clean the IAC, see if that does the trick.
Thanks for your help. You’ve reinforced some of the things I’ve already done as the right route to take and your suggestion on the IAC was a solution I’d been trying to figure out for some time – but as a DIYer and only knowing theory and not what the parts are called, sometimes I find myself stuck.
I’ve cleaned the throttle body because when I bought the truck I had trouble with it for awhile trying to stick closed after it sat overnight. I hadn’t cleaned the IAC because I wasn’t sure how it worked until I just looked up a schematic on it. I knew fuel injected engines had to have that function, but I didn’t know how it was accomplished. I have checked for vacuum leaks but didn’t see anything obvious.
I also looked at the MAF sensor again today, and I think that there is an air temperature sensor inside of it.
Right now the weather in California is beautiful and the truck is running great, so it might be awhile before I can really put any results to the test. I’m going to take the intake apart all the way up to the throttle body, go back over that as best I can and clean the IAC, see if that does the trick.
Thanks for your help. You’ve reinforced some of the things I’ve already done as the right route to take and your suggestion on the IAC was a solution I’d been trying to figure out for some time – but as a DIYer and only knowing theory and not what the parts are called, sometimes I find myself stuck.
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