[Wojtek]

I sent him email so its not a messaging system issue.

I replaced my primary o2 sensor again, for cheapest ebay no-name direct fit sensor. Its not showing any P0171 lean condition codes. Car is making 9L/100km city driving. My OBD scanner shows the sensor is working full range voltage and its very active. Only popping P1164 code every hour haha, i think because its cheap sensor, and honda likes only denso or ntk.
= Problem almost solved

Laggy acceleration i went under the car, because my AC clutch stopped working, and i noticed, hose on a oil pressure switch was loose. I put the hose deeper, its tight now and car accelerate and spin the wheels now! Its not 100% perfect because there is little oil leak and i need replace the switch. But it look like thats the problem. Car was lag in acceleration at WOT or any high load, because no oil pressure, also no enough pressure so ECU don;t active VTEC.

[Wojtek]

I haven’t meet DaFirnz, hes not respoding since he offered help here.
I always clean the codes with learn idle procedure after every part replacing
Yesterday i put new Air intake temperature sensor – no difference with new one.

ECU was replaced and its right ecu for the engine, old ecu was also right one.
K20a3 engine 37820-PNF-A11 ECU

The “old” sensor i replaced 2 months ago a Denso one, was stuck at 0,005V very lazy and no active, always showing low voltage. New one is very active and moves full range 0.1V-0.9V, car stay in closed loop, under high load instantly switch to open loop, so new sensor is much better then old one, no idea why its throwing code, i filled my tank to full, we will see what mileage i get.
Last full tank to reserve light (40liters) i made 236km which is over 17l/100km

It looks like its a game over, im going to holidays in september, after it i gonna sell the car because i spent already too much (over 4000$cad) for all diagnostics and repairs since last 8 months.

I flush new coolant fluid last week, and still waiting for coolant temp sensor i ordered but i don’t think it gonna make any difference, but my holiday trip is over 5000km so i want to make best condition of the car as i can for that.

[Wojtek]

Hey, so i bought another o2 sensor, some cheap ebay 70$ direct fit sensor, it say its for civic ep3 si/sir 2.0 hatch as a acura rsx base.
And its very active 0.1 – 1.0V, not stuck at low voltage as old denso one. Car drives different, more smooth. Its not jumping OL-CL like crazy, it stay now in CL but when wide open throttle or under load go to OL so seems to be perfect.

But my car still have big lag in acceleration, and 1h after installing sensor i got code P1164
I dont know about MPG yet, because installed it today.
Coolant temp sensor and Air intake temp sensor on the way

[Wojtek]

I also noticed, the gas smell is very strong when i have almost full tank.
But with like 15l or less in the tank, i almost don’t feel any fuel smell.

[Wojtek]

Yea, i contated DaFirnz
so i gonna write here about any progress soon

[Wojtek]

Yes, im not going to replace any parts for now.
“bad o2 sensor” i mean, bad wiring to o2 sensor, of course there is few % chance, brand new sensor from the box is faulty too.
Saying about black covered plugs, o2 sensor i just wanted to add, thats mean rich.
Plugs replaced week ago, o2 sensors 2 months ago, and cat converter 2 weeks ago.

Also i forget about important thing i tested with old cat converter. I just removed primary o2 sensor, leaving a hole before cat converter. And of course car was loud as f**k but performance was hundred times better! no perfect or good yet, but much better. Thats why i was thinking my cat converted is clogged and i replaced it. I also noticed a rotten eggs smell after aggresive driving.

Im not cheap about this car, i just want to fix it, im not looking for cheap “replacement solutions”. It looks like i see 3 problems with electrical system:
– P1298 eld too high voltage (even after new eld)
– Battery check light always on
– few codes and issues with o2 sensor

And as i said, im not able to do/check any electrical stuff as i have 0 experience and knowledge about that, thats why i gonna visit this wiring shop.
Is there anything important what i dont know but i should tell them?

[Wojtek]

Thanks for all the replies.

I did a “longer” obd2 test during normal drive by my GF, and what i see on the scanner is:

– o2 sensor should read 0.1V – 0.9V but most time its stuck at 0,005V
and even if sometimes voltage go up, its always less than 0.45V which mean lean all the time
thats why my car go to closed loop, but return back to open loop because of “bad” sensor. and this repeat every second.
– other thing is LONGFT1 is stuck as you see in video 7-8%, SHRTF1 go most time 46% i don;t know its normal?

My spark plugs, my o2 sensor, exhaust is covered black, thats mean rich.
My “bad” o2 sensor tells my ECU wrong reading, so ECU tell me LEAN, and try to put more fuel because it thinks its lean, thats why i have so bad mileage (15mpg) and gas smell.

I found place where they do a wiring and wiring issues, its 85$ hour labour, and gonna take few hours, but i think its neccessery for me to DO IT.
Also going to replace coolant temperature sensor.

Im correct with that?

[Wojtek]

So today is hot outside 25 celsius and car drive like nightmare.
Big lag in acceleration, doesn’t matter 2nd or 3rd gear. Even 1st gear is worse
When i release gas pedal the car don’t slowing smoothly, just rough.

Also, when i first time started the car today, and as i said its hot outside, the cooling fan came on after 30 seconds, working for 5 seconds, turn off, came on again, turn off again. Everything on IDLE, and while changing ON/OFF cooling fan, the revs also jumps and falls (about 300rpm up or down)

[Wojtek]

[quote=”cap269″ post=187884]As for the engine performance, the dealer ticket in your first post says that the injectors are dumping fuel while the A/F is reporting a lean condition. Plus you say you can smell a strong raw fuel smell. That may indicate an exhaust restriction, possibly a plugged catalytic converter, even though you don’t have a code for it. Codes don’t always get thrown depending on other conditions.[/quote]

I had same idea about clogged cat converter, so as i also wrote in 1st post, i replaced cat converter for new one like two weeks ago, nothing changes with performance and gas smell after replace.

[Wojtek]

Battery and alternator tested, with results from honda dealer attached in 1st post.
Also few other mechanic checked battery/alt and said its good.

ELD was replaced by myself, first i got used ELD from junkyard, installed and nothing changed, then i went to honda dealer and bought brand new oem part, installed by myself again and nothing changed.

battery check light on the cluster is a different problem, because even if there is no P1298 i always have battery check light, and thats only the light.
After replacing a ECU, battery light didn’t came off even for 1 second.
I live in winnipeg where we have -40 celsius at winter, i dont have block heater, i never ever had problem with start my car

Previous owner had a amp, subwoofer and some audio installed. There is nothing left, only wires

[Wojtek]

Yes, what i read is, car should start with OL then should switch to CL and use a primary o2 sensor, but my car goin back to OL like it don’t get reading from o2 sensor.

I did a test for primary sensor
Unplugged – got P1166 code in few seconds
Plugged bad sensor – got P1166 code in few seconds
Plugged new sensor – very rarely P0134 code once a 2 weeks~

The code coming all the time is P0171 too lean, and P1298 ELD.
– same thing with eld, replaced for brand new, but maybe wire is shorted somewhere

What about battery light on? Because is there all the time, even when there is no stored or pending DTCs

What i gonna do is check all the wires and harness for now i think.

[Author]

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