Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorReplies
-
I have a 2002 Acura Tl 3.3 basic. I love this car. Easy to work on. Last year I replaced the radiator because it was leaking at the seems. It took an hour to replace. What was so puzzling, when I went to change it, the transmission oil lines were not connected to the radiator? So I just never connected them. This vehicle was always serviced at an Acura dealership 100% from the previous owners. Any ideas why? I have changed the transmission oil every year for four years now, even though it says every 30,000 miles.
Yes, this must be a common problem because I had to change the upper the upper plenum and gasket because of a coolant leak. Since I was doing this I took off the lower manifold and changed its plastic gasket too. Go with Fel-pro gaskets they worked for me. This was for my son’s 2002 buick regal 3800 series 2 engine.
March 31, 2018 at 8:18 pm in reply to: How to get the correct 50/50 ratio of antifreeze and distilled water #887341Thanks I was thinking the higher ratio too. Just didn’t know the Percentage. Just bought a tester for this. Was just trying to avoid another drain and fill because I’ve done so many to clean the system to have heat again. Thanks a ton.
March 31, 2018 at 5:37 pm in reply to: How to get the correct 50/50 ratio of antifreeze and distilled water #887338I understand how to get a 50/50 solution, but how to get that 50/50 solution in the coolant system when most of it is filled with water from a flush. Adding a 50/50 coolant mix until the radiator system is full won’t yield a 50/50 mixture in the system, which is required.
With the car running, check the battery terminals with a voltage meter. If it is charging at 14.2 volts the alternator is doing it’s job. If not replace that alternator. Go to the auto parts store have them check the battery to see if it is good or holding a charge. If both checks out then check main battery ground. Might be loose and that’s why your getting intermittent problems. 350 thousand miles is a whole lot on an alternator. Get an OEM one with lower millage from a junk yard. Cheaper and it will last too. search used parts.com for locations in your area that has one, if not another can ship you the part. A bad ignition switch will cause your car to all of a sudden stall driving down the road. Very dangerous. Replace that switch ASAP if that’s the case.
No problem. I have used this website for a couple years and have learned and fixed my own car. Well pays for having a membership. I don’t know Eric personally, but he sure has a good heart. Fixing it forward is a great program. Just one more word of advice. I pay a membership to Mitchells 1 repair manuals. This is excellent source too. Just a little hard to find information at first, but you will get use to it. Gives step by step repair guidelines. All the professional mechanics use this. One repair savings well pays for both.
If your belt is eight years old I would start out by replacing the belt(s). Get a good belt. Tighten that belt to specs. While you have that belt off I would spin the compressor to see if you could get any noise. From your description it sounds like its associated with the ac, which it includes the fan motor. Put the belt on and get a stethoscope. Please be careful of moving parts. Place it on the compressor. You have to check all moving parts.
Had this problem before and it was a fuel pressure regulator. However, I was getting an immediate stall when the engine was cold or hot not just hot. A faulty Pressure regulator is due to flooding of gas backing up the vacuum line to the throttle body. If you take the vacuum line off the regulator and gas is apparent then replace, if not move on to another cause. check your coils.
It was the left inner tie rod. The right was ok, but I just replaced all of them anyways (2inner, 2outter) Had a front end alignment done with two new tires and all is good. First time I changed the inner tie rods. Video was great. Thanks for your responses. I am new to all of this mechanical stuff. Very thankful to Eric for starting this web site.
Thanks for the tips-Never tried hitting the iac valve. I just replaced the iac valve and it solved my problem with idling. I say I took a guess and was right. Lucky this time. Replaced it because it looked terrible with carbon all built up.
I had the same noise on my acura tl. I thought at first it was a belt tensioner, so replaced it. The noise was actually the bearings in the alternator. I drove it until it gave out, replaced it with an oem from the salvage yard and the noise disappeared.
Thanks for your response-It ended up being the left tie rod. I just went to rent the removal tool from autozone and replaced both inner and outter tie rods, got an alignment , new tires and all is good.
Thank you so much. I’m just going o replace both inner and outer tie rods on the left side. The right doesn’t have play, but would you replace them as well?
seems like it is coming from the inner tie rod but not for sure if it’s the otter one or inner one
February 23, 2017 at 5:42 am in reply to: ETCG’s Top 5 Pet Peeves About Auto RepairCustomers #876928Dishonesty is the number one complaint. I had the dealership look at my tire because of a slow air leak. The dealership told me I needed a new tire because a nail was in it. I didn’t believe them so I took it to Walmart to look at it. No nail found, resealed the tire, and have been driving on it for two more years.
Dishonesty- Took my car in to be diagnosed for whining noise, and was told it was a tensioner. Paid the 99.00 service fee took the car home and put the new tensioner in.No resolution to the whining noise. Took it back to the dealership and the mechanic said it was the alternator bearings. Replaced it then noise was resolved.
I have learned through the years, many but not all, mechanics will say something is wrong and you tell them to fix it, then they give you a call, by the way I noticed this was (or recommend) other thing needs to be replaced. The first thing never needed fixing, it was the call later that was the real problem. My advice is when you do find an honest mechanic stick with them. Of course, after many many experiences with dishonest mechanics, I decided to work on them myself. I have gotten valuable information and have learn through Eric the car guy and have saved a lot of money. I still have a lot to learn, but with the help of Eric’s website , combination of other website leads, and Mitchells auto repair I have been able to work on these automobiles. Dishonesty is the reason I started to work on my own cars, and it’s been fun and dirty.
-
AuthorReplies