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mark lavrack

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Viewing 15 replies - 16 through 30 (of 36 total)
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  • in reply to: 1999-03 Acura TL’s and CL’s Pattern Failurers #887823
    mark lavrackmark lavrack
    Participant

      I have a 2002 Acura Tl 3.3 basic. I love this car. Easy to work on. Last year I replaced the radiator because it was leaking at the seems. It took an hour to replace. What was so puzzling, when I went to change it, the transmission oil lines were not connected to the radiator? So I just never connected them. This vehicle was always serviced at an Acura dealership 100% from the previous owners. Any ideas why? I have changed the transmission oil every year for four years now, even though it says every 30,000 miles.

      in reply to: What is a Pattern Failure? #887816
      mark lavrackmark lavrack
      Participant

        Yes, this must be a common problem because I had to change the upper the upper plenum and gasket because of a coolant leak. Since I was doing this I took off the lower manifold and changed its plastic gasket too. Go with Fel-pro gaskets they worked for me. This was for my son’s 2002 buick regal 3800 series 2 engine.

        mark lavrackmark lavrack
        Participant

          Thanks I was thinking the higher ratio too. Just didn’t know the Percentage. Just bought a tester for this. Was just trying to avoid another drain and fill because I’ve done so many to clean the system to have heat again. Thanks a ton.

          mark lavrackmark lavrack
          Participant

            I understand how to get a 50/50 solution, but how to get that 50/50 solution in the coolant system when most of it is filled with water from a flush. Adding a 50/50 coolant mix until the radiator system is full won’t yield a 50/50 mixture in the system, which is required.

            in reply to: Accord Start/Alternator Problem #879082
            mark lavrackmark lavrack
            Participant

              With the car running, check the battery terminals with a voltage meter. If it is charging at 14.2 volts the alternator is doing it’s job. If not replace that alternator. Go to the auto parts store have them check the battery to see if it is good or holding a charge. If both checks out then check main battery ground. Might be loose and that’s why your getting intermittent problems. 350 thousand miles is a whole lot on an alternator. Get an OEM one with lower millage from a junk yard. Cheaper and it will last too. search used parts.com for locations in your area that has one, if not another can ship you the part. A bad ignition switch will cause your car to all of a sudden stall driving down the road. Very dangerous. Replace that switch ASAP if that’s the case.

              in reply to: High pitch squealing, pitch change in idle, low sp #879049
              mark lavrackmark lavrack
              Participant

                No problem. I have used this website for a couple years and have learned and fixed my own car. Well pays for having a membership. I don’t know Eric personally, but he sure has a good heart. Fixing it forward is a great program. Just one more word of advice. I pay a membership to Mitchells 1 repair manuals. This is excellent source too. Just a little hard to find information at first, but you will get use to it. Gives step by step repair guidelines. All the professional mechanics use this. One repair savings well pays for both.

                in reply to: High pitch squealing, pitch change in idle, low sp #879043
                mark lavrackmark lavrack
                Participant

                  If your belt is eight years old I would start out by replacing the belt(s). Get a good belt. Tighten that belt to specs. While you have that belt off I would spin the compressor to see if you could get any noise. From your description it sounds like its associated with the ac, which it includes the fan motor. Put the belt on and get a stethoscope. Please be careful of moving parts. Place it on the compressor. You have to check all moving parts.

                  in reply to: Honda Accord 00 V6 stalls on warm start #878668
                  mark lavrackmark lavrack
                  Participant

                    Had this problem before and it was a fuel pressure regulator. However, I was getting an immediate stall when the engine was cold or hot not just hot. A faulty Pressure regulator is due to flooding of gas backing up the vacuum line to the throttle body. If you take the vacuum line off the regulator and gas is apparent then replace, if not move on to another cause. check your coils.

                    in reply to: checking suspension #878613
                    mark lavrackmark lavrack
                    Participant

                      It was the left inner tie rod. The right was ok, but I just replaced all of them anyways (2inner, 2outter) Had a front end alignment done with two new tires and all is good. First time I changed the inner tie rods. Video was great. Thanks for your responses. I am new to all of this mechanical stuff. Very thankful to Eric for starting this web site.

                      in reply to: very high idle on cold start #878610
                      mark lavrackmark lavrack
                      Participant

                        Thanks for the tips-Never tried hitting the iac valve. I just replaced the iac valve and it solved my problem with idling. I say I took a guess and was right. Lucky this time. Replaced it because it looked terrible with carbon all built up.

                        in reply to: High pitch squealing, pitch change in idle, low sp #878605
                        mark lavrackmark lavrack
                        Participant

                          I had the same noise on my acura tl. I thought at first it was a belt tensioner, so replaced it. The noise was actually the bearings in the alternator. I drove it until it gave out, replaced it with an oem from the salvage yard and the noise disappeared.

                          in reply to: inner tie rod tool #878602
                          mark lavrackmark lavrack
                          Participant

                            Thanks for your response-It ended up being the left tie rod. I just went to rent the removal tool from autozone and replaced both inner and outter tie rods, got an alignment , new tires and all is good.

                            in reply to: checking suspension #878061
                            mark lavrackmark lavrack
                            Participant

                              Thank you so much. I’m just going o replace both inner and outer tie rods on the left side. The right doesn’t have play, but would you replace them as well?

                              in reply to: checking suspension #878059
                              mark lavrackmark lavrack
                              Participant

                                seems like it is coming from the inner tie rod but not for sure if it’s the otter one or inner one

                                in reply to: ETCG’s Top 5 Pet Peeves About Auto RepairCustomers #876928
                                mark lavrackmark lavrack
                                Participant

                                  Dishonesty is the number one complaint. I had the dealership look at my tire because of a slow air leak. The dealership told me I needed a new tire because a nail was in it. I didn’t believe them so I took it to Walmart to look at it. No nail found, resealed the tire, and have been driving on it for two more years.

                                  Dishonesty- Took my car in to be diagnosed for whining noise, and was told it was a tensioner. Paid the 99.00 service fee took the car home and put the new tensioner in.No resolution to the whining noise. Took it back to the dealership and the mechanic said it was the alternator bearings. Replaced it then noise was resolved.

                                  I have learned through the years, many but not all, mechanics will say something is wrong and you tell them to fix it, then they give you a call, by the way I noticed this was (or recommend) other thing needs to be replaced. The first thing never needed fixing, it was the call later that was the real problem. My advice is when you do find an honest mechanic stick with them. Of course, after many many experiences with dishonest mechanics, I decided to work on them myself. I have gotten valuable information and have learn through Eric the car guy and have saved a lot of money. I still have a lot to learn, but with the help of Eric’s website , combination of other website leads, and Mitchells auto repair I have been able to work on these automobiles. Dishonesty is the reason I started to work on my own cars, and it’s been fun and dirty.

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