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To answer my own question that may help someone. The grease that it calls for is Gleitmo 805. Very difficult to find, so I went with the Molykote 111 made by Dow Chemical. You can buy this on Amazon for 16.00 a tube. I was going to buy the Superlube 93003, but it didn’t list it for extreme pressure and it wasn’t a paste. If anyone is in this situation I hope it helps.
Well, I received both my resistor and fan motor and installed it yesterday. All seems fine. Not an easy fix, but not as bad as I thought. You have to remove the windshield wipers and motor assembly and several covers. Plus you have to remove the gas pedal and under dash covers to access the resistor. and then feed it across the motor to the other side to the electrical connectors, Engineering on this 2004 Saad arc 95 isn’t the greatest. I’m not a fan of Saab cars. The car had 132,000 miles on it when we got it from my sister last October. Would never buy one, but was given to my son for free. Too many issues so far and parts are not reasonable. The resistor was $110.00, but got a Fan motor for 58.00 from amazon. Alternator, power steering pump, DIC, Thermostat and hoses, Security module, inside door rail guides, sunroof wind shield, electrical harness for the tail lights, coolant reserve tank with coolant level sensor was the things replaced so far. I can understand why General Motors dropped the Saab line. I know there are many European lovers, I’m just not one. Thanks.
Thanks- checked and there is no relay for this vehicle that covers the blower motor. Decided to order another resistor and install it. It has been making a bad noise ever since my sister purchased the car. She was told by the dealership that is normal for Saabs. Looking at the Technical service bulletins there was one issued, but the dealership failed to replace it. Owners of new vehicle purchases, should be informed of all technical service bulletins. This should have been replaced under warranty. It’s my understanding dealerships hate warranty work due to not getting reimbursed properly for the time to fix the vehicles. Just wrong in my opinion. Thanks. I know I got on a tangent, but it just strikes a nerve. Thanks for all your help. I’ll see if it takes care of the problem when I get the part.
Thanks again. Those horizonal marks were the pry points. Took my angle nose plyers and it just came off. In the past I have had problems with some of these electrical connections breaking. Fragile from age? Just paranoid with breaking another. I try to use extreme caution with any connections. Wish I could buy you a beer or steak dinner. Thanks.
Thank you a million. This is the first time I had to deal with this type of bleeding. I have mitchells guide for the car which gave me directions, but it wasn’t clear to me. I have a pro scan tool and ran the abs pump( I could hear it turn on) had my wife pump the brake three time and hold, then I loosened the bleed screw. So, wasn’t sure if you should have her pump the brakes right after the abs pump turns on? I did do this with all four wheels starting with the LF,RR,LR and RF per Mitchells guide.but was unsuccessful. I get a firm pedal when I engine is off, but seems very spongy when car is turned on. I am able to stop the car. I had to replace the brake lines most of the way due to rusting out. All the fluid in the master cylinder ran dry. I changed the calipers rotors , pads and parking brake assembly. Do I have to bleed the Master Cylinder on its own? Thank you again so much. Never had to deal with this situation before. Learning can be frustrating at times.
Chryslers are no fun to work on. Issue after issue. Quality is terrible. Once this Pt Cruiser is on the road again I’m going to tell my mother in law to sell. I have working on this vehicle many times. It has only 64,00 miles. I have replace a low limit switch for the ac, window motor, NVLD for emissions, fan and shroud for the ac, lower control arms, alternator, tie rods inner and outer, oil pressure switch. now it’s developed an oil leak which I haven’t investigated yet. What’s next? I Iike working on cars, but give me a break. 64,000 miles?
Wow! what a job. Did what you said. Drilled out all three broken bolts and re tapped. It worked and I’m back in business. Took me a long time. Hope this doesn’t happen again.
thanks for your suggestion. Really appreciate it.Yes, I continue to learn. Unfortunately, this time will be the hard way. I have been working on my cars for a little while. I have never striped a bolt or broken one. Lucky? I use PB Blaster and wait a little time and the bolt comes out fine. This Chrysler PT cruiser I’m working on has had all sorts of problems and fixes for 64000 miles. Unbelievable. I don’t own it, I usually fix it because it’s my mother-in- laws car and she can’t afford to have it fixed at the shop. I did buy a Chrysler town and country in the late fall of 2017. Just for a back up and to haul some larger items we buy. other than that it’s my last Chrysler ownership. Anyways, I was wondering what size impact should I purchase and air compressor. Any recommendations? I won’t let this mistake deter me from working on cars. It’s just learning. I would quite working on cars, but I like it believe it or not. So much to learn in mechanics. so many systems and makes and models all are different. thanks for the response.
I will try this and let you know. I may have to re tap the hole. I’m is the process of changing the lower control arm and the links to the stabilizer bar. This is the third bolt that has broken. I’m worried about the larger bolt that fastens the lower control at up. Will I break it?
This bolt is the bolt that hold the bracket for the stabilizer bar which is near the front of the vehicle.