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[quote=”madrockwyo” post=174485][quote=”mkymnzns” post=174318]
I assumed as much but a 200rpm difference makes me feels something’s really wrong… additionally, when the 700rpm drop happens the car shakes a lot further pushing my desperation to fix this…
This is the first car that I actually bought with my own money that’s why I really want to get it running well. :([/quote]
The 700rpm sounds about right, the 900 seems a bit high. I cannot think of why the would shake at all when just the AC compressor kicked in. Does the cooling fan also kick in at the same time as AC? could something be loose, or a loose/broken motor mount that causes shake? Try a search on here and possibly using general search engine for Mitsubishi Idle adjustment, and Mitsubishi high idle and see if any useful information shows up.[/quote]
Actually yes, when the compressor engages both fans start. The shake is feels more like it’s losing power with the load since it’s also pulling down the RPM.
Try to imagine that the engine is fighting to stay alive when the compressor load kicks in.[quote=”madrockwyo” post=174484]On the computer reset, on one car, you were required to unhook the battery, then jumper or touch the two battery cables together for a minute or more. This drained all capacitors and other keep alive memory. Another thing that could cause a high idle is a bad MAP/Intake air sensor or O2 sensor that would be giving false readings to computer. But a code reader should identify those.[/quote]
I’ll try this out right now and report if there’s any change! thank you!
[quote=”Iznogood” post=174284]While 900 is a tad high I´ld guess, what´s wrong with 700 with AC on ?
Isn´t there some sort of base adjustment on a car that old you can perform ? I remember some Mazdas, where you had to short a wire to ground and do a base adjustment of idle speed.
I think Eric showed more or less the same thing on a Honda of sorts in one of his videos.[/quote]
it’s the first I’ve heard of such a procedure but it might be worth a try. Could you point me out on the exact link? I’m trying to search it on Eric’s channel but i can’t find it. 🙁 Thank you in advance!
[quote=”Yuri” post=174275]If I removed my Honda Prelude (1999) throttle body for cleaning…
Did I just propel my self into a world of pain?
My car has a cable type throttle, not electronic.
This is just a mechanical part…can someone please explain to why removal of this part is frowned upon by Eric?
I understand why drive-by-wire throttles can be affected after removal but cable ones…?[/quote]There’s no “high risk” involve when disconnecting a cable type throttle body, provided you know what you’re doing.
I’ve done this to my ’95 Nissan Sentra and ’99 Mitsubishi Galant.
Before doing the disassembly make sure to disconnect the throttle cable fist. It’s fairly easy to do and it would not change the current setting of your cable (positioning).But to be honest, if you’re just going to clean it, you don’t need to disassembly the TB. Just disconnect the pipe connecting to the MAF and spray the TB with carbcleaner then brush with a toothbrush. Wipe the residue afterwards.
Be sure to spray the bypass pipe on the TB also to ensure proper clean. Hope this helps. 🙂[quote=”madrockwyo” post=174304]I’m not 100% positive, but I think the idle is supposed to decrease when the compressor kicks in because the load on the engine has now increased and the idle control is still providing the same amount of fuel/air mix to the engine.[/quote]
I assumed as much but a 200rpm difference makes me feels something’s really wrong… additionally, when the 700rpm drop happens the car shakes a lot further pushing my desperation to fix this…
This is the first car that I actually bought with my own money that’s why I really want to get it running well. 🙁
I tried resetting the PCM by taking the connection to the batteries and left it for an hour or more. Drove it for about 2 weeks already since i did that and still did not fix the issue… 🙁
Throwing in this care information just in case someone might have an idea.
Year: 1998
Make: Mitsubishi
Model: Galant
Transmission: Manual
Engine: 4G63a – SOHC 16 Valve
Mileage: 149,000kmHi I brought the car for timing belt change and re-calibration of the pulleys. Changed all the tensioners also but still no avail…
I’ve also rechecked all the vacuum lines and fitted everything with a screw clamp just to make sure.At this point I think I’ve ruled out any issues with the engine… could lack of electricity or issues with the wiring or sensors cause the inability of the idle control valve take the load of the compressor? The rpm really goes down when the compressor engages…
PLEASE ANYONE I’m desperate already 😳
[quote=”Johnny Stang” post=173189]The same signal that tells your AC clutch on the compressor to engage tells the ECU to up the idle speed to compensate for the additional load. If you do pull the belt off the compressor and turn the dash AC switch on the dash on your idle speed should increase some over baseline. If it doesn’t I would look at a clogged or dead IAC valve, or bad wiring to it.[/quote]
I’ve replaced the IAC with a brand new one but as for the wiring I haven’t checked on this. Thanks for the tip! I’ll have it checked along with my replacement of the timing belt.
well I’ll be taking the car to my mechanic this weekend to get the timing belt changed. I guess it’s about time anyway, will report back if this fixes my issue. 🙂
[quote=”nightflyr” post=173025][quote=”mkymnzns” post=173022]nightflyr,
I did some extensive searching and found out my gallant has a timing belt rather than a timing chain. (I’m smacking my head on a wall now) I was under the assumption that I had a chain all along. The engine doesn’t sound that optimal after I heard how the stock engine for my car should sound. I’m having this check by the weekend ad for now I’ll avoid using the car. I guess the old owner wasn’t keen on keeping things maintained.In anycase I would like to ask if this could possibly affect the ability of the engine to take on the load of the compressor?[/quote]
Timing belts are a funny thing …
In many cases when they fail, they break and the engine does not run at all.
If they happen to slip by a tooth or two (which can happen but is not as common) the engine will run poorly across the board no matter if the AC is on or not.Prior to your AC repair work, did the motor have the same issue?[/quote]
Yup it did but I figured it was because of the ICV so i pegged it to be repaired last. having the ICV changes with a brand new Mikuni (same as the original) it didn’t fix the issue so now I’m suspecting the engine is at fault… I brought the car to a computer box repair center since I was suspecting the ECU but they wouldn’t take it since they can’t pegged the issue to it. No check light whatsoever…
nightflyr,
I did some extensive searching and found out my gallant has a timing belt rather than a timing chain. (I’m smacking my head on a wall now) I was under the assumption that I had a chain all along. The engine doesn’t sound that optimal after I heard how the stock engine for my car should sound. I’m having this check by the weekend ad for now I’ll avoid using the car. I guess the old owner wasn’t keen on keeping things maintained.In anycase I would like to ask if this could possibly affect the ability of the engine to take on the load of the compressor?
[quote=”nightflyr” post=173003]You’ll need to look at a wiring diagram for your car.
As you say both fans come on at the same time..
Is this the cause or a symptom?
“Normal” load output is 14V, but when the fans come on you drop to 13V
Appears you have a excessive amp draw when both fans engage and the charging system is having issue keeping up with the demand.
You do not say if the voltage output changes when the engine speed is increased.
That would be helpful.
Your car being equipped with AC, one fan is (or should be) strictly for radiator cooling.
The second is designed to ( or should be ) to come on when the AC is switched on.Knowing that both fans start at the same time gives you some direction to work towards.
A few things to look at:
Is your AC always on? (if so why?)
Is your compressor always engaged? (if so why?)
Is there a possible short in the fan wiring?
Is there a possible faulty fan relay?
Is one or possibly both fans faulty?
Is there a bad sensor causing the second fan to come on?
Again a wiring diagram for your car with help you trace the circuit and components with in it.[/quote]Kinda hot out here so i always have the AC on when I’m driving.
I’ve tried removing the fan connection and turned on the car an ac and the problem still persist so at this point im ruling out the fans.Ruling out the fan load, I noticed that the issue happens when the compressor engages so im suspecting the load from the compressor is at fault.
As i mentioned the compressor is brand new so im not suspecting that it’s going bad.. what other aspect could i check on? Alternator or maybe the timing chains of the engine? Really appreciate your help on this one!
[quote=”nightflyr” post=172910]You state you changed the ICV..
Is their a relearn procedure that is required?? this could be the cause of your idle condition.As to the squeak…
A good battery should be showing ~12.6V at rest.
You should consider getting it load tested.
A weak battery at start up will cause a high load on the alternator which could be the cause of your squeak.
Another thing is to make sure you have proper tension on the belt.[/quote]Hi nightflyr! Thanks for the reply.
I went to a shop today and had load test done.
At normal load I’m getting 14v and when the issue I’m having kicks in it reads at 13v.
Issue being that when the engine fan starts my RPM falls to 700.
Guess this rules out the alternator..I noticed that both fans turns on at the same time when the the issue happens.. by my understanding on how the fans works is that the aux will only kick in when engine is going above the operating temp, right? The fans always turns on and off together… should i look into this?