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Ran the carb test with scanner hooked up and still no change. I also tested the coil again it’s working properly. I talked to a Honda specialist shop today and was told to try resetting the valves with a feeler guage that he doesn’t think my valves are opening all the way. Any (+) or (-) feedback on that? I’m probably gonna do that and see if it helps any. I had changed the air mixture on the intake to allow more air in to raise the rpm slightly and that fixed the low rpm problem.
I went through with carb cleaner and didn’t get anything I’ll have to borrow my old bosses scanner to see if it’s a slight change. But I’d think a vacume leak would make the idle bounce back and forth right? It’s not bouncing rapidly or anything it’s dropping pretty much as low RPM as it can without stalling and staying there. I can hit the gas a little and it might not act up for a day or it could act up soon I wrote down every time it happened and couldn’t find any correlation between temp or anything. And the coil I replaced about 3 months ago. The coil had went out. I’ll do another check on it and see what comes up. Thanks for the speedy reply.
I went through with carb cleaner and didn’t get anything I’ll have to borrow my old bosses scanner to see if it’s a slight change. But I’d think a vacume leak would make the idle bounce back and forth right? It’s not bouncing rapidly or anything it’s dropping pretty much as low RPM as it can without stalling and staying there. I can hit the gas a little and it might not act up for a day or it could act up soon I wrote down every time it happened and couldn’t find any correlation between temp or anything. And the coil I replaced about 3 months ago. The coil had went out. I’ll do another check on it and see what comes up. Thanks for the speedy reply.
I got the car to start. I’m assuming the problem is the ignition switch itself I ran a hotwire to the distributor and she started right up. So temporarily until I can get a new one I’ve run the wire from the distributor to the fuse box into the fuse for the radio so when the key is turned to position 2 electricity will go to the distributor and position 3 will start the vehicle. Thank you for your assistance.
I got the car to start. I’m assuming the problem is the ignition switch itself I ran a hotwire to the distributor and she started right up. So temporarily until I can get a new one I’ve run the wire from the distributor to the fuse box into the fuse for the radio so when the key is turned to position 2 electricity will go to the distributor and position 3 will start the vehicle. Thank you for your assistance.
Before I read that I’d already unbolted it. I opened the relay and didn’t see anything obvious and tested it and the relay is good. I tested the harness and the side that goes to the fuel pump is getting power but the side that goes to the engine to give it power isn’t receiving any. I checked the fuses again and none are blown. Someone said the ignition switch itself may be bad but I doubt that where the engine is cranking but not turning over maybe there is a short between the fuse and the relay?
Before I read that I’d already unbolted it. I opened the relay and didn’t see anything obvious and tested it and the relay is good. I tested the harness and the side that goes to the fuel pump is getting power but the side that goes to the engine to give it power isn’t receiving any. I checked the fuses again and none are blown. Someone said the ignition switch itself may be bad but I doubt that where the engine is cranking but not turning over maybe there is a short between the fuse and the relay?
The “new” one wasn’t aftermarket my apologies for the misunderstanding it was used with a new coil and igniter. I’ve been trying to get the main relay off to test it but the bolts on there pretty good. I’ll keep you guys updated.
The “new” one wasn’t aftermarket my apologies for the misunderstanding it was used with a new coil and igniter. I’ve been trying to get the main relay off to test it but the bolts on there pretty good. I’ll keep you guys updated.
There is a fuse for it and it isn’t blown or anything however I just ran the check on it for the third time today and now it’s throwing code P0100 which it wasn’t throwing earlier. Is there a possibility that the main relay could cause the car not to start? just out of curiosity where the problem is before the distributor.
There is a fuse for it and it isn’t blown or anything however I just ran the check on it for the third time today and now it’s throwing code P0100 which it wasn’t throwing earlier. Is there a possibility that the main relay could cause the car not to start? just out of curiosity where the problem is before the distributor.
all the fuses are good and the battery is too. my ignition switch wasn’t getting voltage to begin with and this new one isn’t either. so I’m kinda lost at where to go from here.