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If your alternator was locking up you would hear a very high pitch squealing and white smoke would come from the belt. You can look at your belt and see if it’s warped when a pully locks up 9 times out of 10 it melts the belt in certain places. Here is a way to test for a head gasket leak take your radiator cap off and start the car if it shoots out there is a high probability your head gasket is leaking.
You can also take your spark plugs out and in some cases see coolent on the tips.
Something else you could try would be a leakdown test and watch for bubbling from the head gasket or cooling system.
If your alternator was locking up you would hear a very high pitch squealing and white smoke would come from the belt. You can look at your belt and see if it’s warped when a pully locks up 9 times out of 10 it melts the belt in certain places. Here is a way to test for a head gasket leak take your radiator cap off and start the car if it shoots out there is a high probability your head gasket is leaking.
You can also take your spark plugs out and in some cases see coolent on the tips.
Something else you could try would be a leakdown test and watch for bubbling from the head gasket or cooling system.
Figured I would update everyone in case someone else runs into the problem. I replaced the mount and no big noticeable difference however I did notice some of my valves were lose and others were excessively tight so I did the valve lash over again and BOOM problem fixed. Thanks for the replies everyone.
Figured I would update everyone in case someone else runs into the problem. I replaced the mount and no big noticeable difference however I did notice some of my valves were lose and others were excessively tight so I did the valve lash over again and BOOM problem fixed. Thanks for the replies everyone.
It may have an issue with the breathalyzer wiring however you could look into the crank sensor. A lot of vehicles will refuse to spark if the sensor is malfunctioning. Is the car cranking normal or is it slower than usual?
It may have an issue with the breathalyzer wiring however you could look into the crank sensor. A lot of vehicles will refuse to spark if the sensor is malfunctioning. Is the car cranking normal or is it slower than usual?
It’s not the tranny mount it’s the driver side liquid one. And I noticed it goes away slowly the faster I go (rpm wise probably because of engine revelation) yes I tried the old coil and tried a friend of mines destributor entirely. And the lead mechanic for the shop I used to work for has a scanner that reads air flow and everything. Tomorrow’s my birthday so I may nudge him as a present to let me borrow it lol. Anyways I bought a used mount from a salvage yard called hilltop Honda I’m gonna try in see if it helps any one way or another I know it needs to be replaced. Hopefully I can figure it out soon.
It’s not the tranny mount it’s the driver side liquid one. And I noticed it goes away slowly the faster I go (rpm wise probably because of engine revelation) yes I tried the old coil and tried a friend of mines destributor entirely. And the lead mechanic for the shop I used to work for has a scanner that reads air flow and everything. Tomorrow’s my birthday so I may nudge him as a present to let me borrow it lol. Anyways I bought a used mount from a salvage yard called hilltop Honda I’m gonna try in see if it helps any one way or another I know it needs to be replaced. Hopefully I can figure it out soon.
It is driving me crazy..I haven’t done a smoke test so I’ll try that. My top mount doesn’t seem to be working properly holding the engine down as the engine has quite a bit of lift during the break torquing but it isn’t missing like when I accelerate. Maybe it’s torquing the Axel when driving causing the car to “jerk” or “bounce” when accelerating or going up hills?
The crank sensor I’m not sure if it was OEM I got it from Autozone however the problem was there before the replacement.And brink it has a map sensor I’ve cleaned it up already. But thanks for the suggestion.
It is driving me crazy..I haven’t done a smoke test so I’ll try that. My top mount doesn’t seem to be working properly holding the engine down as the engine has quite a bit of lift during the break torquing but it isn’t missing like when I accelerate. Maybe it’s torquing the Axel when driving causing the car to “jerk” or “bounce” when accelerating or going up hills?
The crank sensor I’m not sure if it was OEM I got it from Autozone however the problem was there before the replacement.And brink it has a map sensor I’ve cleaned it up already. But thanks for the suggestion.
I wouldn’t imagine it would be you could make sure the cars E break was locked and the car was in neutral and turn the crank manually making sure for some odd ball reason the engine didn’t sieze. I’m sure it wouldn’t hurt to change the oil.
I wouldn’t imagine it would be you could make sure the cars E break was locked and the car was in neutral and turn the crank manually making sure for some odd ball reason the engine didn’t sieze. I’m sure it wouldn’t hurt to change the oil.
Thanks for the reply, no there aren’t any engine codes stored in the memory or anything. Yes the injectors were cleaned as well and yes I used genuine Honda parts I heard Hondas don’t like aftermarket parts so I stay with OEM. I tried break torquing the engine (never thought of doing that) and everything was okay. I just replaced the fuel filter and the problem remains.
And Karl I believe they were NGK if I’m remembering correctly.
After the fuel filter was replaced I took the car to Honda for a tech to do a ride along and was told he had no clue till he looked under the hood for 100 bucks (just looking not a look and fix the problem) I’m gonna go with no on that one.
Thanks for the reply, no there aren’t any engine codes stored in the memory or anything. Yes the injectors were cleaned as well and yes I used genuine Honda parts I heard Hondas don’t like aftermarket parts so I stay with OEM. I tried break torquing the engine (never thought of doing that) and everything was okay. I just replaced the fuel filter and the problem remains.
And Karl I believe they were NGK if I’m remembering correctly.
After the fuel filter was replaced I took the car to Honda for a tech to do a ride along and was told he had no clue till he looked under the hood for 100 bucks (just looking not a look and fix the problem) I’m gonna go with no on that one.
Ran the carb test with scanner hooked up and still no change. I also tested the coil again it’s working properly. I talked to a Honda specialist shop today and was told to try resetting the valves with a feeler guage that he doesn’t think my valves are opening all the way. Any (+) or (-) feedback on that? I’m probably gonna do that and see if it helps any. I had changed the air mixture on the intake to allow more air in to raise the rpm slightly and that fixed the low rpm problem.