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If your vehicle isn’t shifting there’s a very good chance you will have a CEL (check engine light) stored. Stop by your local auto parts store and have them check for any stored codes.
first did you bleed all the air out of the system?
With the vehicle cold take the radiator cap off, ensure the coolant is just below the filler neck. Start the vehicle, if the coolant starts to guizer out like a blow hole then you’re getting compression in your cooling system. If all goes well and nothing comes boiling out when the vehicles started hit the gas (cap still off) and you should see the coolant level rise as the engine speed rises. don’t gradually give it gas kinda blip it to 2k-2500 rpms sharply. The coolant will rise and lots of bubbles will come up being that the water pump is pumping the coolant faster. If the coolant barely rises or doesn’t move at all when you hit the throttle you could have a few potential problems.
1. Faulty water pump (yes they can be faulty out of the box just not very common).
2. Blocked/Collapsed coolant hose.
3. Clogged radiator.There was some major work done recently so there are lots of things to consider but these are some quick test to rule things out.
I would pull the vehicle in a dark garage or wait until dark and start the car (with no light at all around) and check to see if the #5 wire is arking because that’s what it sounds like. Another option would be to swap the #5 wire and another wire lets say the #1. Start the car and pull the now #1 wire and if it goes away you would need to replace your plug wires.
You wouldn’t happen to have a vacuum pump would you? and would your vehicle happen to have a bleed screw on the rack? +1 to checking for a screen in the reservoir.
You said the misfire went away and came back. Just out of curiosity you should check to make sure all the wires are secure to the distributor cap not jumping off while the engine vibrates. You should also check the distributor cap. Look at the #1 cylinder prong on the cap and see if it has buildup on it where the rotor button strikes. If it does you could try to clean it but I would just buy a new cap they’re usually only like 10-15 bucks for older vehicles. If that isn’t the problem I would go ahead and get new wires. You said they looked new but that doesn’t always mean there is no corrosion on the inside of the insulation.
It is also important to know if when the misfire came back on cylinder #1 or on another.
I would say best case scenario you just have air in the system and it couldn’t hurt to bleed it more. Hopefully all the pieces were removed from inside the pump. Hydraulic systems can be funny sometimes and take a few times to fully bleed. Just be careful air in a power steering system can cause damage to the pump.
My apologies for bringing back an old thread but it already had the information on it.
This next paragraph is background info for symptoms skip to bottom.
So I haven’t had a lot of time till here recently to work on my vehicle (been driving a buddys) and shortly after my original post the clutch stopped disengaging entirely. I Rev matched about 2 miles home and parked it in my garage, checked the fluid and all was well. Not visual external leaks. So I purchased a clutch kit, slave, and master cylinder. With the miles on the car I figured it couldn’t hurt to replace the clutch. I tore everything down and replaced the clutch release bearing clutch disk and pressure plate. Once it was put back together I bled the clutch hydraulic system and to my surprise there was less pressure at the pedal. So I took the old slave and master off put the new on and the same problem. I figured maybe the 2 man method wasn’t working so I reverse bled and gravity bled still nothing more. So I purchased a pressure bleeder yet the clutch still doesn’t want to disengage. When you start it and try to put it in gear you have to force it and it makes a grinding/popping noise then it’ll go into gear but then if the e brake isn’t up or you’re not on the brake the car moves forward pedal to the floor. The pedal has sleight pressure but not nearly what is to be expected. With a clear tube on the slave no air comes out. I’m honestly lost here. I pulled the tranny again to check my work (took pictures of everything to reassure myself the clutch plate was installed correct as well as clutch release bearing. Any help is appreciated.
To recap
-car will go into gear off but once started you have to force it.
-New clutch ,pressure plate, release bearing, slave, and master.
-Pedal feels looser than before, not as solid but no air comes out of slave.
-Master was bench bledI’m a little lost here. I will mention the new clutch disk had 6 springs as opposed to the 4 on the old one. And the new pressure plate was twice as heavy. Part number on the new one matched for my vehicle.
Hey I’ve rigged magnets off my fridge to pick up bolts in crevices till I could afford good tools I feel your pain lol but yea check where hoses connect and see if coolent is leaking.
Hey I’ve rigged magnets off my fridge to pick up bolts in crevices till I could afford good tools I feel your pain lol but yea check where hoses connect and see if coolent is leaking.
You don’t mention if you checked the grounds a corroded ground or unhooked will cause a no crank situation. Check your battery ground first.
You don’t mention if you checked the grounds a corroded ground or unhooked will cause a no crank situation. Check your battery ground first.
Do you have access to a lift to look under the car? Or maybe a mirror to check for leaks from hoses?
Do you have access to a lift to look under the car? Or maybe a mirror to check for leaks from hoses?
Yes relays can go out intermittently as can your fuel pump. Next time it won’t start take a mallet and hit the tank a few times and try to start it. It can repressure the tank.
Another thing would be taking that relay out, popping the cover off and checking the soder points for cracks.