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I’ve send out ECM to get rebuilt and now car works as it should.
Also owner said it turns on CEL light P0420 when she’s going uphill, if that makes any sense.
Also owner said it turns on CEL light P0420 when she’s going uphill, if that makes any sense.
I took some temp readings after driving it today. It definitely has hotter temps before cat and after cat it’s cooler so that makes me believe that cat is clogged to some degree.
I took some temp readings after driving it today. It definitely has hotter temps before cat and after cat it’s cooler so that makes me believe that cat is clogged to some degree.
So basically on working cat, temp should be higher on exit side of the cat?
So basically on working cat, temp should be higher on exit side of the cat?
Thanks, I was searching internet last night and came across this same link. Yeah, I found a seller on ebay who rebuilds these and sending out ECM tomorrow. Even though it all looked good I’m not that good with electronics so I will have a pro check it out.
Thanks, I was searching internet last night and came across this same link. Yeah, I found a seller on ebay who rebuilds these and sending out ECM tomorrow. Even though it all looked good I’m not that good with electronics so I will have a pro check it out.
Just took out ECM and cleaned connectors with electrical connector cleaner, they looked clean anyways. Took it apart and didn’t see any blown parts and didn’t smell burnt. Reinstalled ECM and it still won’t connect to scanner or run properly.
Just took out ECM and cleaned connectors with electrical connector cleaner, they looked clean anyways. Took it apart and didn’t see any blown parts and didn’t smell burnt. Reinstalled ECM and it still won’t connect to scanner or run properly.
Scan tool I’m using is one of the best ones, (I had cheap ebay $60 one that I sold and got this one) Actron CP9180. I even hooked it up to another car to check and it works.
I will have to check ECU connections, maybe there’s corrosion/condensation cause car is parked outside most of the time. I just found someone on ebay rebuilds these for $75, if it turns out to be a bad ECM.
If I get ECM from junk yard I would have to reprogram the key cause there’s security system (at least that;s what I’ve read in repair manual) you have to do this when installing new ECM. So I’d rather keep original ECM and get it fixed.
I do have access to FSM for camry, which is basically the same car.
Scan tool I’m using is one of the best ones, (I had cheap ebay $60 one that I sold and got this one) Actron CP9180. I even hooked it up to another car to check and it works.
I will have to check ECU connections, maybe there’s corrosion/condensation cause car is parked outside most of the time. I just found someone on ebay rebuilds these for $75, if it turns out to be a bad ECM.
If I get ECM from junk yard I would have to reprogram the key cause there’s security system (at least that;s what I’ve read in repair manual) you have to do this when installing new ECM. So I’d rather keep original ECM and get it fixed.
I do have access to FSM for camry, which is basically the same car.
While the car is running for short 10 seconds or so it displays CEL, if only I could pull codes, that way I could have an idea of where to look at. Why would ECM just go out all of a sudden? I might try cleaning all the connections to ECM and see if that will improve it.
I was watching a video on youtube of a guy diagnosing similar problem on an Echo and it turned out to be a dirty engine ground by the thermostat housing. I cleaned all the grounds and it still does it.While the car is running for short 10 seconds or so it displays CEL, if only I could pull codes, that way I could have an idea of where to look at. Why would ECM just go out all of a sudden? I might try cleaning all the connections to ECM and see if that will improve it.
I was watching a video on youtube of a guy diagnosing similar problem on an Echo and it turned out to be a dirty engine ground by the thermostat housing. I cleaned all the grounds and it still does it. -
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