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Thanks for your reply.
My intention was not to clear any codes without the repair. I was wondering if there are scanners available for me to read the code first, if it’s a simple repair, I would either DIY or have a shop (cheaper than dealer) do it. After completion of the work, I would like to be able to use the same scanner to clear the codes. This eliminates the need for the higher cost of dealerships to diagnose, repair, and clear the codes. If these codes could be read and clear either DIY, or with a local shop, the costs difference would be a nice informational piece.
Granted, if the issue is a lot more intensive and Acura specific scanners only, it will be done via an Acura dealership.
Ultimately, I am researching this more of a learning experience especially with the “newer” technology of electronic power steering. I would love to go through a diagnostic process more of – for future reference.
Any other suggestions would be great!
Thank you guys for your replies. It’s all very informative, however, I just want to be most efficient before taking it in to a shop. I definitely will have a shop evacuate the system if there is any refrigerant left.
My main concern is ensuring that there is, or there isn’t any refrigerant left in the system. Aside from depressing the schrader valve, I would love to check with a DYE test, is there a proper procedure to induce DYE into the system?
Thank you guys for your replies. It’s all very informative, however, I just want to be most efficient before taking it in to a shop. I definitely will have a shop evacuate the system if there is any refrigerant left.
My main concern is ensuring that there is, or there isn’t any refrigerant left in the system. Aside from depressing the schrader valve, I would love to check with a DYE test, is there a proper procedure to induce DYE into the system?
I can depress either or schrader valve correct? Or specifically low side or high side?
Am I to expect the liquid to come out under pressure (i.e. shooting out) or just accumulate as a pool of fluid?
Is there a specific oil, or any compressor oil would be okay to lubricate the new o-rings?
I can depress either or schrader valve correct? Or specifically low side or high side?
Am I to expect the liquid to come out under pressure (i.e. shooting out) or just accumulate as a pool of fluid?
Is there a specific oil, or any compressor oil would be okay to lubricate the new o-rings?
Late update; got this fixed after taking it to the dealership and being told I have too many mods on my car and he’d rip out everything before diagnosing the car. He did waste 2 hrs of my time by doing the same parasitic draw tests that I told him I already did. All in all a useless trip to honda to be told by a technician exactly what I told him before I started.
Regardless 1 hefty bill and a few more hours of self diagnosis; I decided to do continuity test between each wire… literally each wire to the MICU. Found that 2 ground control wires; get this; the door lock and unlock were tapped into for my remote starter (ha..ha…ha… remote starters…) It was somehow pulling current… and draining my battery; when disconnected it no longer disabled my master lock and unlock buttons and fixed the parasitic draw…
Took it to the remote start installation shop I went to; they’ve never seen this problem before; but made some tweaks and got it to work… All in all; no clue how ground controlled wires can draw power out of no where.. but yeas…
Late update; got this fixed after taking it to the dealership and being told I have too many mods on my car and he’d rip out everything before diagnosing the car. He did waste 2 hrs of my time by doing the same parasitic draw tests that I told him I already did. All in all a useless trip to honda to be told by a technician exactly what I told him before I started.
Regardless 1 hefty bill and a few more hours of self diagnosis; I decided to do continuity test between each wire… literally each wire to the MICU. Found that 2 ground control wires; get this; the door lock and unlock were tapped into for my remote starter (ha..ha…ha… remote starters…) It was somehow pulling current… and draining my battery; when disconnected it no longer disabled my master lock and unlock buttons and fixed the parasitic draw…
Took it to the remote start installation shop I went to; they’ve never seen this problem before; but made some tweaks and got it to work… All in all; no clue how ground controlled wires can draw power out of no where.. but yeas…
What blows my mind is the relays are non serviceable, would you by any chance know if I could test the relay even though it’s non serviceable?
If there is any test and it confirms it’s the relay, would the only way to fix this to be with a new fuse box?
Thanks in advance.
What blows my mind is the relays are non serviceable, would you by any chance know if I could test the relay even though it’s non serviceable?
If there is any test and it confirms it’s the relay, would the only way to fix this to be with a new fuse box?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks for the reply Eric, but it totally went right over my head; my brain is trying not to accept the fact that it’s a PITA to fix. With your information, I would still need to pull apart majority of the wiring, and fuse box probably. I’ll definitely tackle that when it gets warmer.