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[quote=”college man” post=32910]here is a video for you.
I think i’m doomed, I hear a diesel like knocking sound from the engine after its hot… Damn.
Ah well, what can I do now? I will pressure test it to be certain its got a problem.
[quote=”college man” post=32910]here is a video for you.
I think i’m doomed, I hear a diesel like knocking sound from the engine after its hot… Damn.
Ah well, what can I do now? I will pressure test it to be certain its got a problem.
[quote=”college man” post=32900]I thought in your first post that you had a freshly rebuilt
Honda accord? You should not have junk in the pan or screen.
unless you have machine shavings from parts not being cleaned
and being reinstalled.[/quote]Yeah but it was my first time rebuilding (overhauling) an engine. I really doubt that the screen is clogged its just that’s what is seems like. I just changed the oil pan not long ago and when I saw the screen it didn’t look clogged. It had some tiny specs of debris but nothing that would clog it.
Also, some people on a Honda forum were telling me how should have measured the main and rod bearings. The clearances on the main bearings are important for oil pressure. What I did was just put STD bearings on. I figured “STD bearings should go on a STD block”. But people on the Honda forum were telling me no, they are color coded and you have to measure them to be sure.
I don’t know if those guys were trying to give me a hard time or what, maybe someone in here knows something about STD bearing sizes.
[quote=”college man” post=32900]I thought in your first post that you had a freshly rebuilt
Honda accord? You should not have junk in the pan or screen.
unless you have machine shavings from parts not being cleaned
and being reinstalled.[/quote]Yeah but it was my first time rebuilding (overhauling) an engine. I really doubt that the screen is clogged its just that’s what is seems like. I just changed the oil pan not long ago and when I saw the screen it didn’t look clogged. It had some tiny specs of debris but nothing that would clog it.
Also, some people on a Honda forum were telling me how should have measured the main and rod bearings. The clearances on the main bearings are important for oil pressure. What I did was just put STD bearings on. I figured “STD bearings should go on a STD block”. But people on the Honda forum were telling me no, they are color coded and you have to measure them to be sure.
I don’t know if those guys were trying to give me a hard time or what, maybe someone in here knows something about STD bearing sizes.
[quote=”Jotmon1″ post=32886]Back to basics. The trouble started when you replaced the leaking oil pressure switch. Are you sure you installed the correct part? There may be two different types used on the car. One is the idiot light that just grounds the wire attached to it when the oil pressure gets too low and the other is an oil pressure sending unit that provides a voltage signal to the guage or ECM. Use a test light or meter on the old switch while you provide light air pressure to the oil inlet. See if you can determine what pressure causes the light to go off. Do the same for the one you installed as a replacement. If there is a significant difference or they do not operate the same, you might have the wrong or a bad switch.[/quote]
I don’t know how I could put pressure to the switch unless I had a special tool (what tool?). Anyways, I can’t really understand why the light wants to come on when i’m driving but not when i’m idling. Its like maybe there’s something in the oil pan that’s clogging the screen. I don’t think that’s what’s happening but it seems like it.
[quote=”Jotmon1″ post=32886]Back to basics. The trouble started when you replaced the leaking oil pressure switch. Are you sure you installed the correct part? There may be two different types used on the car. One is the idiot light that just grounds the wire attached to it when the oil pressure gets too low and the other is an oil pressure sending unit that provides a voltage signal to the guage or ECM. Use a test light or meter on the old switch while you provide light air pressure to the oil inlet. See if you can determine what pressure causes the light to go off. Do the same for the one you installed as a replacement. If there is a significant difference or they do not operate the same, you might have the wrong or a bad switch.[/quote]
I don’t know how I could put pressure to the switch unless I had a special tool (what tool?). Anyways, I can’t really understand why the light wants to come on when i’m driving but not when i’m idling. Its like maybe there’s something in the oil pan that’s clogging the screen. I don’t think that’s what’s happening but it seems like it.
[quote=”Jotmon1″ post=32886]Back to basics. The trouble started when you replaced the leaking oil pressure switch. Are you sure you installed the correct part? There may be two different types used on the car. One is the idiot light that just grounds the wire attached to it when the oil pressure gets too low and the other is an oil pressure sending unit that provides a voltage signal to the guage or ECM. Use a test light or meter on the old switch while you provide light air pressure to the oil inlet. See if you can determine what pressure causes the light to go off. Do the same for the one you installed as a replacement. If there is a significant difference or they do not operate the same, you might have the wrong or a bad switch.[/quote]
You are right, there are 2 types of switches; a OEM style one and a non OEM style one. I have the non OEM one, I should have got the other one.
Here is the one I should have installed:
[i][b]”Oil pressure sender for use with a factory warning light. Preset to OE specifications to send a signal should oil pressure drop below a minimum level. This is a-direct fit OES replacement switch.
Product Application(s):
1991 Honda Accord LX
W/Light”[/b][/i]
Here is the one I have that’s not working right:
[i][b]”BWD oil pressure switches are manufactured to meet or exceed OE performance.
Product Application(s):
1991 Honda Accord LX
With Light; OE Style; New Number
[/b][/i]
I did the many tests found in the official Honda owners manual. It concluded that the oil switch had continuity as well as the wiring going to the oil switch. I used a multimeter to test the switch and also the control box in the car that triggers the light. It all tested good. However, that doesn’t rule out a mechanical failure in the switch itself during operation. I will change the oil and the switch and see what that does, if it does nothing then I will test the oil pressure.
[quote=”Jotmon1″ post=32886]Back to basics. The trouble started when you replaced the leaking oil pressure switch. Are you sure you installed the correct part? There may be two different types used on the car. One is the idiot light that just grounds the wire attached to it when the oil pressure gets too low and the other is an oil pressure sending unit that provides a voltage signal to the guage or ECM. Use a test light or meter on the old switch while you provide light air pressure to the oil inlet. See if you can determine what pressure causes the light to go off. Do the same for the one you installed as a replacement. If there is a significant difference or they do not operate the same, you might have the wrong or a bad switch.[/quote]
You are right, there are 2 types of switches; a OEM style one and a non OEM style one. I have the non OEM one, I should have got the other one.
Here is the one I should have installed:
[i][b]”Oil pressure sender for use with a factory warning light. Preset to OE specifications to send a signal should oil pressure drop below a minimum level. This is a-direct fit OES replacement switch.
Product Application(s):
1991 Honda Accord LX
W/Light”[/b][/i]Here is the one I have that’s not working right:
[i][b]”BWD oil pressure switches are manufactured to meet or exceed OE performance.
Product Application(s):
1991 Honda Accord LX
With Light; OE Style; New Number
[/b][/i]
I did the many tests found in the official Honda owners manual. It concluded that the oil switch had continuity as well as the wiring going to the oil switch. I used a multimeter to test the switch and also the control box in the car that triggers the light. It all tested good. However, that doesn’t rule out a mechanical failure in the switch itself during operation. I will change the oil and the switch and see what that does, if it does nothing then I will test the oil pressure.
[quote=”college man” post=32878]here is a link for a gauge.you may be able to rent one.
Thanks but isn’t that just a dial? I called Advance already and they told me about a gauge just like the one you linked. They said it was just a dial.
Harbor Freight has whole kits of them with different adapters for 19.99. That stores an hour away though.
Harbor Freight has prices that are out of his world,
[quote=”college man” post=32878]here is a link for a gauge.you may be able to rent one.
Thanks but isn’t that just a dial? I called Advance already and they told me about a gauge just like the one you linked. They said it was just a dial.
Harbor Freight has whole kits of them with different adapters for 19.99. That stores an hour away though.
Harbor Freight has prices that are out of his world,
[quote=”Jotmon1″ post=32872]OK, Do you think you have the correct filter on the car? Is oil not returning to the oil pan? Use the dip stick while the engine is at idle and make sure you see oil.[/quote]
Yes, the filter is fine, its a mobil 1. I did check the dippy stick as it was idling and the oil was running up the stick about 1/4 of the way up it. That means good pressure I suppose.
[quote=”Jotmon1″ post=32872]OK, Do you think you have the correct filter on the car? Is oil not returning to the oil pan? Use the dip stick while the engine is at idle and make sure you see oil.[/quote]
Yes, the filter is fine, its a mobil 1. I did check the dippy stick as it was idling and the oil was running up the stick about 1/4 of the way up it. That means good pressure I suppose.
[quote=”Jotmon1″ post=32868]Compression tester has a one-way valve. Goes up but not down. You are looking for something that will measure 5 – 10 PSI depending on the engine type[/quote]
K, thanks. I just went out and started my car and warmed it up to operating temp. The light never came on for some reason. Its only when I start driving it that it comes on. Wierd, what could that mean? Maybe it has something to do with electrical current or something. Last time it came on I was braking at a stop sign. It wants to start tripping out when I stop from a decent drive. After that it starts to blink while I’m driving and stay on when i’m stopped (that means no oil pressure).
[quote=”Jotmon1″ post=32868]Compression tester has a one-way valve. Goes up but not down. You are looking for something that will measure 5 – 10 PSI depending on the engine type[/quote]
K, thanks. I just went out and started my car and warmed it up to operating temp. The light never came on for some reason. Its only when I start driving it that it comes on. Wierd, what could that mean? Maybe it has something to do with electrical current or something. Last time it came on I was braking at a stop sign. It wants to start tripping out when I stop from a decent drive. After that it starts to blink while I’m driving and stay on when i’m stopped (that means no oil pressure).