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Yeah bro, you can do it with the F22 Honda motor, pretty cool isn’t it? The coolant passages line up perfectly, it uses the same headgasket. All I needed for this swap is a new timing gear, a different belt, and a different ecu. That’s pretty much it.
Anyways. I got some answers from another forum they said to have it TIG welded and then milled down flat, which in my opinion seems to be the best way. My only question is trying to find a competent enough welder as I heard TIG welding (aluminum welding) is very tricky.
Eric probably never heard of the sohc to dohc head swap, the dohc F22 engine only came out it Japan.
Yeah bro, you can do it with the F22 Honda motor, pretty cool isn’t it? The coolant passages line up perfectly, it uses the same headgasket. All I needed for this swap is a new timing gear, a different belt, and a different ecu. That’s pretty much it.
Anyways. I got some answers from another forum they said to have it TIG welded and then milled down flat, which in my opinion seems to be the best way. My only question is trying to find a competent enough welder as I heard TIG welding (aluminum welding) is very tricky.
Eric probably never heard of the sohc to dohc head swap, the dohc F22 engine only came out it Japan.
From my observation it looks like you have a motor mount gone bad… Check your RPM’s when it vibrates, where are they? They should be at about 750, anything lower and you may get vibration.
How is the car performing, is it firing on all cylinders?
From my observation it looks like you have a motor mount gone bad… Check your RPM’s when it vibrates, where are they? They should be at about 750, anything lower and you may get vibration.
How is the car performing, is it firing on all cylinders?
I have another video and some pics.
Pics of leak:
There appears to be oil coming out of the head gasket, it is exactly where an oil passage is.
Zoomed out pic,
On the block where the head gasket meets with the cyl. head.
Video with more info:
I have another video and some pics.
Pics of leak:
There appears to be oil coming out of the head gasket, it is exactly where an oil passage is.
Zoomed out pic,
On the block where the head gasket meets with the cyl. head.
Video with more info:
[quote=”college man” post=35398]found a TSB on your vehicle.scroll to the bottom of page.
Toyota knows about it.I put another link for a possible fix.
Don’t know how true it is.Have you called toyota?http://www.cityscope.net/~daryl/tsb.html
http://repairpal.com/brief-knocking-or-rattle-on-cold-start-up-695%5B/quote%5D
Good job C man. To me it doesn’t sound like a bottom end noise, its a “brief rattle”.
Looks like not a very uncommon problem for the Toyota’s.
Here’s a video from a completely different person with the same noise and the same engine:
[quote=”college man” post=35398]found a TSB on your vehicle.scroll to the bottom of page.
Toyota knows about it.I put another link for a possible fix.
Don’t know how true it is.Have you called toyota?http://www.cityscope.net/~daryl/tsb.html
http://repairpal.com/brief-knocking-or-rattle-on-cold-start-up-695%5B/quote%5D
Good job C man. To me it doesn’t sound like a bottom end noise, its a “brief rattle”.
Looks like not a very uncommon problem for the Toyota’s.
Here’s a video from a completely different person with the same noise and the same engine:
[quote=”maltman111″ post=35321]Im assuming so since i bought it from a large reputable dealer. And if it was the wrong viscosity it would have other affects than just a noise cold start. But thanks for the response.[/quote]
It could be but only if it was like 20w 50 and it was below freezing when you tried to start it. But even then it would have to be a first time start. With higher viscosity oils, once the oil circulates through the system it stays coated there even after the engine is cold. For example, the Lucas oil additive it very very thick and states that this the benefit of using such a thick additive, it “prevents wear on cold starts” by coating the engine. Thicker oil coats the engine better, a first time start may cause lack of lubrication though.
It would greatly help if you provided a video of the noise at start up, we could then make a much more accurate diagnosis.
[quote=”maltman111″ post=35321]Im assuming so since i bought it from a large reputable dealer. And if it was the wrong viscosity it would have other affects than just a noise cold start. But thanks for the response.[/quote]
It could be but only if it was like 20w 50 and it was below freezing when you tried to start it. But even then it would have to be a first time start. With higher viscosity oils, once the oil circulates through the system it stays coated there even after the engine is cold. For example, the Lucas oil additive it very very thick and states that this the benefit of using such a thick additive, it “prevents wear on cold starts” by coating the engine. Thicker oil coats the engine better, a first time start may cause lack of lubrication though.
It would greatly help if you provided a video of the noise at start up, we could then make a much more accurate diagnosis.
[quote=”Maikeru77″ post=35021]Oil is normal color, doesn’t smell burned or anything of the sort.
No milky fluid. Checked the coolant, nothing is mixed in there either.[/quote]MAKE SURE that when you check the fluid the car is hot (but not running) and that it is done on a level surface area.
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20081223173506AAfuKoW
Also running the trans with a little too much or a little too little ATF will not destroy the transmission if the level is not drastically out of specifications. Same thing also for oil levels. You can have the dipstick level be above the top line but it must not be too far above it.
[quote=”Maikeru77″ post=35021]Oil is normal color, doesn’t smell burned or anything of the sort.
No milky fluid. Checked the coolant, nothing is mixed in there either.[/quote]MAKE SURE that when you check the fluid the car is hot (but not running) and that it is done on a level surface area.
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20081223173506AAfuKoW
Also running the trans with a little too much or a little too little ATF will not destroy the transmission if the level is not drastically out of specifications. Same thing also for oil levels. You can have the dipstick level be above the top line but it must not be too far above it.
Just make sure the mechanical timing is correct, this is the most crucial, as well as the valve lash is correct. Ignition timing is important as well (did you mark the distributer when you took it off?).
As long as you put everything such as the bolts and parts in bags with labels on them, re-assembly will be a breeze. In terms of the timing belt, you may want to download the official manual for your civic:
Should be under “Civic 1996-2000 EJ6, EJ7, EJ8, EM1 includes Si B16A2”
If you look for guides you will surely find them.
In fact, Eric has a video about tming belts for 98 civics:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AoJcAS58CHg
Look and you will find what you need, its already there on the internet:
Just make sure the mechanical timing is correct, this is the most crucial, as well as the valve lash is correct. Ignition timing is important as well (did you mark the distributer when you took it off?).
As long as you put everything such as the bolts and parts in bags with labels on them, re-assembly will be a breeze. In terms of the timing belt, you may want to download the official manual for your civic:
Should be under “Civic 1996-2000 EJ6, EJ7, EJ8, EM1 includes Si B16A2”
If you look for guides you will surely find them.
In fact, Eric has a video about tming belts for 98 civics:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AoJcAS58CHg
Look and you will find what you need, its already there on the internet:
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=33405]Try not to look for a problem where there isn’t one. Do you have any performance problems? Does your oil light come on? Are you overheating? Do you have poor gas mileage? Do you have a check engine light on?
If the answered yes to any of this then it would be a concern but if they were all ‘no’ then I would just keep an eye on the situation and move on.
If it ain’t broke don’t fix it.[/quote]
Well basically yeah, I would answer “no” to all those questions. I have great performance, the oil light does not come on, it is not overheating, and I am getting good gas mileage (30 mpg). Also it starts up fine, its not flooded and there is no gassy smoke coming out of the tailpipe. The exhaust smells like exhaust and not fuel.
However, I see some bubbles on the dipstick, what does that mean? The oil does smell a bit like gas but its not black, its golden. I am more concerned about the bubbles now…