[miraha]

Thanks the help … it mysteriously began working again after a second fill up.

[miraha]

Thanks guys

A reputable rebuilder Ody transaxles quoted $2200 (w 3 yr 50000 guarantee on all labor, all parts and towing incl.) with all Honda updates and a reman Honda torque converter.

Mech said that in all the Ody transaxle rebuilds he’s doing, it’s been mostly the torque converter and valve body issue where the torque converter was getting way to hot due to restricted fluid flow and from there maxing out the clutches on 2 and 3.

Quote for throwing in a reman was $3900 (3yr. 100, 000). Van, 2001 Ody, has 200k on it, so I went with the rebuild.

[miraha]

Thanks guys

A reputable rebuilder Ody transaxles quoted $2200 (w 3 yr 50000 guarantee on all labor, all parts and towing incl.) with all Honda updates and a reman Honda torque converter.

Mech said that in all the Ody transaxle rebuilds he’s doing, it’s been mostly the torque converter and valve body issue where the torque converter was getting way to hot due to restricted fluid flow and from there maxing out the clutches on 2 and 3.

Quote for throwing in a reman was $3900 (3yr. 100, 000). Van, 2001 Ody, has 200k on it, so I went with the rebuild.

[miraha]

Thanks … I got it at 52,000 back in ’96. The idle is smooth as silk in park and neutral. Drives fine when pulling hills, etc with no miss. It’s just at stops while in D or when waiting to back up in R that it vibrates. So I changed out all four mounts, thinking it was the rear mount. But nothing changed, still vibrating.

[miraha]

Thanks … I got it at 52,000 back in ’96. The idle is smooth as silk in park and neutral. Drives fine when pulling hills, etc with no miss. It’s just at stops while in D or when waiting to back up in R that it vibrates. So I changed out all four mounts, thinking it was the rear mount. But nothing changed, still vibrating.

[miraha]

250,000 … It actually isn’t idle (my bad) … but a vibration issue (I’ve changed the post heading). Wondering if it could be a torque converter thing or something along that line. Thanks.

[miraha]

250,000 … It actually isn’t idle (my bad) … but a vibration issue (I’ve changed the post heading). Wondering if it could be a torque converter thing or something along that line. Thanks.

[miraha]

thanks twiggy

[miraha]

12.2v

[miraha]

My thinking is that jumpstart readings at battery and starter pos make battery a moot point?

The continuity check per Helms on S terminal (B&W wire) and M terminal (battery pos cable connect) shows no continuity; my thinking is that this points to a solenoid problem causing the open (worn contacts)?

Thanks

[miraha]

Fresh recheck 1:30 pm today

Battery checks at 12.55v

Between battery and starter motor pos. connection checks the same, 12.55

Battery – to solenoid B&W starting checks at rest 0, at start 11.44

Jumped with Ram 1500 new battery which was checking 12.6, 13.6 while running.
While jumping, car battery checked the same 13.6
While jumping, car battery neg to starter pos., at rest, checked same 13.6
While jumping, car battery neg to solenoid B&W checked 0 at rest, 11.37 at start

[miraha]

How do I check resistance from starter to engine block? Thanks.

[miraha]

I have cleaned and reworked all connections. There is no drop in voltage between battery + and starter +. All connects are tight. However, I did not check the solenoid right. I checked battery + to solenoid B&W, should have been from battery –

battery – to solenoid B&W

at rest – 0
starting – 11.44

battery – to + 12.55

I tried jumping it with ram 1500 new battery, no change.
Did not try jumping by-passing car battery.
Am I right that the solenoid only showing 11.44 is a problem?

[miraha]

Reworked the battery terminals and clamps, brushed the positive lead to starter – no crank

[miraha]

After making sure ICM terminals were snug, no problems. Thanks to all.

[Author]

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