Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
No, I did the same with my Jeep ZJ when I had problems with the front diff on it. There is not a slip yoke for the front driveshaft. Its just a regular yoke with a double cardan joint on the driveshaft. There is no place for it to leak from because the yoke stays bolted to the t-case. Only difference is that the Durango doesn’t have a 2wd mode on the t-case, and the Jeep ZJ did. So if I put the t-case in 4 wheel lock, basically it will lock the front and rear, but only be driving the rear if the front driveshaft is removed. That would take the tension off the chain.
No codes. I dont think it has the ability to set a code for that sort of problem. There is no sensor in the t-case other than the range sensor.
The rear diff is a trac-lok, and the front is open. What also is making me think its in the t-case is that I shifted it from AWD into 4 wheel lock, and back to AWD and it got better. If I remove the front driveshaft, put it in 4 wheel lock (making it 2wd), can I drive it like that?
I have read that thread before, it wasn’t very helpful. Just a lot of going back and forth about who’s Durango has what parts on it, and all the model years are different. I hate not having a Jeep anymore, you can find out anything about a Jeep on the forums, but there isn’t much info on Durangos out there. Another thing with Durangos, information varies depending on what model year it is. The 98s and 99s are the same. 2000 is different from the 98s and 99s (new drivetrain, front diff, and went to rack and pinion steering) and the 01-03 is completely different, that like only the exterior body panels interchange with the earlier Durangos.
From what I have gathered about the transfer case, the 98-99 have a different shifter (with a 2wd position) that has a longer range of motion than the 00, but 98-00 have the same NP242 transfer case. So it would seem that it could still have the 2wd position that the shifter doesn’t allow it to reach. I guess the only way I can know for sure is to get up underneath of it, remove the linkage, and see if there are 4 or 5 positions on the transfer case. No matter what Dodge forum I look at, everybody looks at the shifter and sees that it doesnt have a position for 2wd, and assumes the transfer case doesn’t either, though every NP242 I’ve ever seen has had a 2wd position.
I went ahead and replaced all of the PCV lines, as well as the PCV valve. I also cleaned out the oil filler, where the PCV valve is clipped into. I let it run for 30-40 minutes, and it was not blowing smoke into the air box anymore. I don’t have time to pull a valve cover today. I think that in the interest of saving time, I’m going to drop a bore scope into the PCV vent on the valve cover, and see what I can see before I go tearing into it. They really shoehorned that motor in there. I’d have to have the AC evacuated to remove the passenger side valve cover, though the driver side would be easy to take off. Another thing, to remove the oil pan in this truck, you have to drop the front differential, which is also ALOT of work. So I can also put a bore scope up into the pan when I have the oil drained. The previous owner kept pretty good records of maintenance that I found in the glove box. Every service was documented up until 124k miles, but there was no mention of servicing the PCV system. So there is only 24k of maintenance that is not accounted for. I have a feeling that its not going to be bad under the valve cover, just because the oil is so clean at at the end of a 4000 mile oil change, and it has very good oil pressure. In the event that I do find sludge under there, how could I go about cleaning it? Is there a solvent that I can use that will be safe with rubber valve seals? Since toward the end of my oil change interval, I think I’m going to put seafoam in the oil for 100 miles or so before I drain it, and see what comes out, it couldn’t hurt.
I checked almost anything. I have doubts on the exhaust being plugged, everything from the downpipe back, including the cat has been replaced. There is nothing specification-wise different between 96 and 98. I got underneath to see if the axle ratio was the same, and it was the same 3.73 limited slip I have in my Jeep. The transmission is the same as well. My Jeep has MANY new parts. I have replaced almost everything that can be blamed for low power. I am going to throw an upstream O2 sensor and a MAP sensor in it tomorrow to see if it makes a difference, I have spares. Like I said, the only symptom it has is the small miss at idle. The reason I was thinking timing, is that it seems to get better at high RPM. It literally feels like I hit a nitrous button as soon as the tach hits 3000. It’s strange. Its like the computer is trying to adjust the timing, and it gets it right at 3000. Anything below 3000, this thing is a turd, yet it doesn’t misfire. Unfortunately, I don’t have a scope to see if it is timed correctly.
That kind of makes sense. The problem came to be as I was pulling off the lot of an automatic car wash when it was 10-15 degrees Fahrenheit. So, I was looking for a reason it would have happened then. The soap/water/ice could have just finished off a caliper on its last leg.
I know I got the lines clipped on all the way when I changed the filter. I pulled on them a few times to make sure they caught the lip on the filter. There were no leaks, and I replaced the plastic clips when I changed the filter. Is there any kind of glue or sealant I can put on there to make sure this doesn’t happen again?
I know I got the lines clipped on all the way when I changed the filter. I pulled on them a few times to make sure they caught the lip on the filter. There were no leaks, and I replaced the plastic clips when I changed the filter. Is there any kind of glue or sealant I can put on there to make sure this doesn’t happen again?
I went and put a salvage yard power steering pump in it today, and they gave me a newish belt to try as well. Problem solved. I noticed a lot more play in the pulley on the pump once I had it out, than I did when it was on the engine. Perhaps the pressure of the fluid being in the pump effected how much end play I felt initially. I also noticed that the A/C compressor was shifted back further than the rest of the pulleys, so I just loosened that up and slid it forward. I used a straight edge to line everything up as best as I could. There is very little adjustment for the positioning of the accessories on that engine.
I had no idea that Eric The Car Guy himself would respond to this forum post. Thank you to everyone for pointing me in the right direction. I intend to keep this Jeep for a very long time. It reminds me of Eric’s reliable POS video. Its paid for, and it just keeps running, and they don’t make them like they used to. The only complaint I have about this Jeep is gas mileage, but in the end of the day, this Jeep owes me nothing.
I went and put a salvage yard power steering pump in it today, and they gave me a newish belt to try as well. Problem solved. I noticed a lot more play in the pulley on the pump once I had it out, than I did when it was on the engine. Perhaps the pressure of the fluid being in the pump effected how much end play I felt initially. I also noticed that the A/C compressor was shifted back further than the rest of the pulleys, so I just loosened that up and slid it forward. I used a straight edge to line everything up as best as I could. There is very little adjustment for the positioning of the accessories on that engine.
I had no idea that Eric The Car Guy himself would respond to this forum post. Thank you to everyone for pointing me in the right direction. I intend to keep this Jeep for a very long time. It reminds me of Eric’s reliable POS video. Its paid for, and it just keeps running, and they don’t make them like they used to. The only complaint I have about this Jeep is gas mileage, but in the end of the day, this Jeep owes me nothing.
Well I just went out and used a long handle hammer as a stethoscope and the noise is definitely coming from the power steering pump, I went and drove it around the block and the pump is now making a groaning noise along with the squeak, worse when I turn the steering wheel. The fluid is at the right level. I might add as well. Last weekend, I had the front end torn apart to replace the CV shafts in the front axle. When I turned the steering wheel to both sides to gain access to the bolts, the steering pump pushed a bit of fluid past the cap when the engine was off. I topped off the fluid before I started driving it again. The squeak started a few days after. I changed the belt the same day after that job was complete. I drove for 4 days (200 miles) with no noises or issues. I checked the belt tension, and power steering fluid every night. Now there is a squeak and groaning noises coming from the pump. I will check to make sure all the pulleys are lined up perfectly, but there does not seem to be any adjustment that I could move them in or out if they are out of alignment.
Well I just went out and used a long handle hammer as a stethoscope and the noise is definitely coming from the power steering pump, I went and drove it around the block and the pump is now making a groaning noise along with the squeak, worse when I turn the steering wheel. The fluid is at the right level. I might add as well. Last weekend, I had the front end torn apart to replace the CV shafts in the front axle. When I turned the steering wheel to both sides to gain access to the bolts, the steering pump pushed a bit of fluid past the cap when the engine was off. I topped off the fluid before I started driving it again. The squeak started a few days after. I changed the belt the same day after that job was complete. I drove for 4 days (200 miles) with no noises or issues. I checked the belt tension, and power steering fluid every night. Now there is a squeak and groaning noises coming from the pump. I will check to make sure all the pulleys are lined up perfectly, but there does not seem to be any adjustment that I could move them in or out if they are out of alignment.
The squeak did not start until 4 days (200 miles) after I changed the belt. I am about to go outside and use a long screwdriver or a hammer as a stethoscope to try to pinpoint the noise. I do not have a doubt that the steering pump is the noise. I just wanted to find out for sure before I throw more parts at it. This vehicle has 300k miles on it, its on its 2nd engine and transmission, but the pump is the factory original, so it could have finally kicked the bucket.
The squeak did not start until 4 days (200 miles) after I changed the belt. I am about to go outside and use a long screwdriver or a hammer as a stethoscope to try to pinpoint the noise. I do not have a doubt that the steering pump is the noise. I just wanted to find out for sure before I throw more parts at it. This vehicle has 300k miles on it, its on its 2nd engine and transmission, but the pump is the factory original, so it could have finally kicked the bucket.