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UPDATE 9/1/17: So I picked the car up from my mechanic yesterday. He was kinda vague with me but told me that he had found a bad/unhooked ground wire that was causing the intermittent stalling problem. However, he told me that a new issue arose. Apparently the AC compressor is “drawing too many amps” and causing fuses to blow repeatedly? I’ve heard of blower fans going bad and blowing fuses but not a compressor. I’ve had multiple compressor issues in multiple cars over the years and typically the clutch goes bad or it disintegrates from within, but ive never heard of an electrical issue affecting a compressor. Anyway, just wanted to update you guys and get your take on this.
Thanks,
MikeThanks for the response! I’ve been warned about the failure of the 3.8 but ive never heard about the PCM issues. Considering it’s such a primitive computer controlled module, I can see where it would be bad. I love this car but I am at the point to where of it can’t be fixed I would be forced to but some German or Asian car which I don’t want to do.
Thanks for the suggestion! The converter solenoid seems like a likely culprit to me however considering that the ECM/PCM is brand new and the crank position sensor has been replaced within the last year. However, considering the history I have with O’Rielly Chinese parts, the sensor could be found bad even though it’s only roughly a year old.
That sounds like it would be the cause of the issue! How would one go about replacing this solenoid? Is it a hard job? I’m assuming it’s in the transaxle.
Update: Today I took the vehicle to a local mechanic. He said that he scanned the car and several trouble codes came up for a bad MAF sensor. Sure enough, the MAF sensor housing had a strange crack in it, he replaced it and the car no longer died at warm idle. However, as I was driving the car this evening and went to accelerate hard, it stumbled and nearly died but didn’t. I don’t know what to think at this point, but I still haven’t touched the fuel filter and there’s the possibility that the fuel pump is down on pressure. It could also be plugs/wires or ignition coil. Another possibility that I thought of was the transmission, as it mainly stumbled only when the tranny is about to kick down.
As a side note, the mechanic also claimed that he cleaned the throttle body so idk if that could maybe cause an issue if it wasn’t cleaned well enough.
Thanks for your guys’ input.
Update: Yesterday I decided to replace all of the fuses just for shits and giggles and low and behold it fixed the problem with the Driver Info Center. Thanks for all the help and suggestions guys, I dont know what i’d do without ya.
-Mike
Hey guys, sorry I’ve been away for so long, life, college and work happens so I dont have all the time I used to haha.
Anyway, this misfire issue is still unsolved. The car hasn’t had the misfire/stumble in quite awhile, although I’ll admit I haven’t been driving it recently. It has also developed several leaks, several of which were “fixed” (it still leaks in certain places just not as much) and since Dexcool and Transmission fluid are relatively the same color, I cant tell if it’s another transmission leak or a coolant leak as a result of lower intake manifold gasket failure. I take pride in knowing quite a bit about cars, but these issues have left me dumbfounded, as several mechanics have looked at the car and weren’t able to duplicate the misfire or properly fix the fluid leaks.
Just thought I’d give you guys an update, and once again I appreciate all of your guys’ help. If you have any ideas or suggestions please feel free to let me know -Mike
I’ve had a suspicion that this car has a failing lower intake manifold gasket for quite some time, but i was never completely sure. Another oddity is that when this problem occurs, if you park the car and let it get hot and idle for 20 min, the problem goes away. I’ll go down later today and see what codes come up.
I’ve had a suspicion that this car has a failing lower intake manifold gasket for quite some time, but i was never completely sure. Another oddity is that when this problem occurs, if you park the car and let it get hot and idle for 20 min, the problem goes away. I’ll go down later today and see what codes come up.
I forgot to mention that there is a check engine light on…strangely enough it goes on and off and is on sometimes when this problem isn’t occurring.
I forgot to mention that there is a check engine light on…strangely enough it goes on and off and is on sometimes when this problem isn’t occurring.
Thanks College Man! I read the guide you posted and only went half way. I had no interest in repairing/replacing the motor mechanism (because all it was going to do was break again), so I disassembled the motor from the latch, manually lowered the nut that raises and lowers the latch, re-installed it and now it works perfectly as a normal, non-motorized latch! If it weren’t for your post I would have been totally clueless as to how to do this. Thanks for your help -Mike
Thanks College Man! I read the guide you posted and only went half way. I had no interest in repairing/replacing the motor mechanism (because all it was going to do was break again), so I disassembled the motor from the latch, manually lowered the nut that raises and lowers the latch, re-installed it and now it works perfectly as a normal, non-motorized latch! If it weren’t for your post I would have been totally clueless as to how to do this. Thanks for your help -Mike
Thanks Eric! After reading your reply I followed your advice and replaced the blower control module, she blows air like a dream now! After all this time of dealing with a fan constantly on low now she blows however much air you want her to. Thanks for the quick reply and the solid advice guys, it means a lot.
Sincerely,
Mike