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i looked at a few places but one i know of family that went there and well they screwed them so i dont trust that place… the other one that would be decent on price of labor of course is the mechanic i go to
I will do that. But two shops including the mechanic i was talking about that i have had work on it said the $500-600 per side would be a round about estimate. Not sure where all around me does them.
My mechanic who had it for 4 months and it just sat there for 3 of them or longer, said that the control arms are bad which i suspected awhile back when i noticed tire wear and i asked him and he said they fine and when i took it too him for the fuel pump issue when the one my buddy and i replaced went out cuz it was junk i asked him that. i had it maybe a month or so when i noticed a small fuel leak. This mechanic is a good mechanic but his times never match and i dont see him a reliable anymore. I know sears auto center does front end work here but i know they charge alot in labor too. Im mostly as i stated more concerned about the tire wear. the front one i jsut had put on hardly a year ago and it sat for 4 months. A brake line busted on me one morning and it sat here for almost a month jsut in my own driveway. the drive side tire still looks new with the tread and all the passenger side the inside is wearing to almost no tread now last i looked when i got gas this week and the outer side the tread looks like the driver side tire having almost new tread. so something is out badly on that side. i think a tie rod is bad but the mechanic claims they are fine and now that im thining about it and what he told me he did say the driver side control arm isnt bad but the ball joints are getting there. SO it sounds like the passenger side ball joints and control arm are shot and maybe a tie rod is which problaby as one the parts you stated so is the wheel hub bearing
Getting another vehicle with my financial situation isnt in the cards. Yes the SOnoma is 17 yrs old. However it is for its age a great running lil truck yet and besides some rust and body issues on the bed the engine is running strong and i have had a lot of well maintained things done to it over the years along with recent just putting 800 bucks into the fuel system with a new tank and lines and brake lines as i stated. So I know it is not gonna last forever but I believe it is well worth putting the money into the front end. I have had between a buddy and I and some repair shops done a lot of work to it. It runs great and drives goods stops good. The only issue is the way it wears tires in the front. It needs an alignment but that cant be done without the control arms. I know for fact they sell the control arms, bushings and ball joints as a complete kit for each side. I have found for cheap price for each side these complete kits and even a complete kit online that supposedly has all the parts needed to redo the front end.I do not think it needs everything done. The power steering Looks to me like a line but i cant be sure as it hard for me to see it with the tight engine are. ALl the brake lines and coolant hoses are kinda in way to see much. ANd would have take the air intake off which no big deal just too cold here to do that. YEs i have weight the options and TRIED to get another vehicle but my financial means is hard. To fix it i wold save up between now and then. All i was looking for was a ball park figure about how much it could cost. Being that i put almost $2,000 in it in past two years and it runs and drives as well as it does. The steering wheel is TIGHT as it was when new so i have no major issues other then a leaking powersteering and way it wears tires. If you are saying that ball park it would problaby be 1500 to 2000 dollars then I would be ok with that it it means i could get a lil more use out of it and better tire wear.
I also wanted to mention and forgot that the power steering leaks some where on the driver side and i never seen anything on the ground. The pump works fine still but i have to add some maybe once every two weeks depeding how much i drive it. there is times i deliver pizza with snowy days with it for the 4×4 i give it some and it last fine the whole time even going all over the place at times and then some after so i wanan fix that too and some place like sears will i am sure cathc that i i dnt say so
Thank you. LMCTruck.com is actually the site i was trying to find. My neighbor and buddy next door to me and i Have used this site and forgot the name for it and both couldnt think of it but seem both knw what we was thinking at same time lol. hate that… but anyways after searching i came across the part on LMCtruck and ordered it monday night and i havent read the email yet on but i got a shipping confirmation for it and i think it will be here in net few days if not sooner.
Well the guy that owns the shop the truck is still currently at does and has welding things. There is even those welder fabricators that are doing gas oil stuff around here that live on a rv site just down road from me that i have delivered pizza too that is one of my jobs i have and thought of talking to him but i know they work long hours and doubt he would have time or wanna do that. I even thought from the looks of this part why cant a couple pieces of rebar be bent and weld a piece with holes in it for bolts or even use the old one as a pattern of some sort. See i wanted the bed off anyways cuz it is just as bad rusted so my plan was if he would loosen that as it was already off a year or so prior when i originally fixed the fuel pump so it isnt like it should have bene hard to remove the 4 bolts and remove that i wouldnt think but i was watning to put a wood bed on it if he was gonna put a new gast tank in it but now im not sure i wanna go thru that and the cost after not having it for 3 months now
Yes i Know. The only chance I would have on a possible local part is to find one that was wrecked early in its life and has been at a junk yard with hardly any use on these winter salted roads. That is the thing the part number off the part that was taken off does not match the truck at all. I have found several with a differnt part number then what is on it. That is the issue i have actually dealt with this truck down to its rotors for some reason. One Mechanic buddy of mine said he swore that when they put mine together they used whatever parts was laying there and made them work but isnt the ones they listed. Even the gas cap wasnt for the same truck i had get one and keep part number to match it over years. Sad thing is i have put way too much money in past 2 yrs and what was done is things that i really would like to keep it going for at least 5 more years but am thinking of sending it to the scrap yard but i got too much in several parts in it so i hate to see all that money just in past 2 years wasted that fast
Yes I thought of that and discussed that with a few guys I know. Just kinda worried that on another truck that same part is rusted just as bad but i plan call the salvage yard close to me on monday when they are open. The thing is the part that I am pretty sure i need is the one they say online wont work and the one that they claim is the correct part doesnt look nothing like it nor does it have the long bolt attached to it.
I was thinking about getting one of those repair manuals that pretty much tell you how to build the car from the ground up which they are around 20 or 30 bucks. Well worth it to me for future use if something else goes wrong that could be easier to fix rather then take to garage and get it back God knows when. :blink: If all else fails I guess i could do what i seen online a pic of LED flashlights duct tape to the hood lol :ohmy: 😆
There is another question I was wondering as far as this car goes. The headlights dont work but the turn signals and brake lights and taillights do. It also runs great and drives just fine. SO would it be ok to drive it around which wouldnt be too far or nothing just to do some local errands during the nice sunny days we are supposed have. Although i guess if i did i should make sure the wipers at least work as it supposed rain here sunday if i indeed decided to drive it to church then. I do have the truck but i I have a gas line leak and really dont wanna drive it if i dont have to
Thank you for the info! Yea i been trying to look for a wiring diagram. I was wondering if there isnt a relay somewhere or a connector of some sort on a wiring harness that has got some burnt wires or came loose. Another guy on a chevy site said that some of the older connectors can come out as from that time period he basicially waas saying some are known to come loose over time. Hitting these pot holes and things on rough roads may have jarred some wires out of a connector that had come a bit loose even he said. I guess the best thing is to try find the wiring diagram. AS for the fuse panel i think he was meaning that he would have pull the fuse panel down to look up under further hoping the problem was a connection there to the panel. Thanks again.
Going off the pictures here and my suspicions I have it could be, I would think that the race, cage and balls is like a ball bearing and it is bad on that side. THe tone rings must be the ABS sensor rotor listed on the 3rd picture and could also be that. I have called and they said you have buy the whole unit to replace and it just as well as one complete thing.
Thank you evil-i it wouldnt surprise me at this point if it was both the cv axle and a vaccum line. I have replaced some vaccum lines under hood that have rotted and fallen apart. ANother actual issue is with the heater controls it only only defrost but blows out the vents too which right now is ok since it still heats up the truck and defrosts it well. HOwever i know one of the actuators is bad and it could be just a vaccum line there i read too. engine code has read there a vaccum leak wish it said where exaclty at somehow.
It is true the ABS module is bad but it has been disconnect by pulling the big fuse it mad a humming hiss noise from it and i never had anyissues with the brakes till this. WHen you are driving down the road and you apply the brake pedal it makes a rub and thump almost and the way it feels in the pedal if you think about it how i am trying to explain it now that i see that picture you including the the cv axle it could be as that part turns where tone rings are some thing is wrong at least perhaps even with that axle. Here in ohio lots pot holes i hit when it started doing it maybe bend some parts even. My neighbor said it maybe the cv axle unit also. It only does this on the passenger side and you can feel it and so can a passenger on that side. WHen you slow down and come to a stop it as if you are riding on like a round solid ball like a basketball that is completely solid lets say. But one side of it is flat and the rest is round. THus when your are slowing down it thuds on one side like it seems like it riding on a flat part then get on the round for 3/4 of the turn of it. The other odd symptom is that it only does this when you apply the brake pedal and slow down. While driving it is fine. Again the rotors brakes and calipers have been recentlly replaced and all lines bled. I am leaning myself to the cv axle just needs replaced. ARe there bearings in there too? maybe if so they are bad and casuing the thump and all that