Forum Replies Created
- AuthorReplies
- February 8, 2018 at 10:18 pm in reply to: Replace fuel pump relay now wont start 2006 Odyssey #886137
I measured again yesterday and I do get 5V from ECM side every time the Fuel Pump is supposed to be ON. I will make a small circuit and Optoisolator and external transistor and see if I can avoid having to ‘Jump’ the Fuel Pump.
Someting like the picture when I try it I’ll let you know if it works
Cheers!!
Attachments:February 7, 2018 at 1:22 am in reply to: Replace fuel pump relay now wont start 2006 Odyssey #886117Hello, I Just tested the the relay out of an 2008 Accura TL (same part number for the relay)
the Coil reads ~55 Ohms, the part I got from Oreilly reads 90 Ohms so current is not the Issue.
Also I put the Part I got from Oreilly ( DENSO 156700-2780, or 39794-SDA-004)in my friends Acura it runs with no problems,
I also took a Voltage reading I get 12V solid to the coil terminals.So I guess I damaged the ECM driver, 🙁 :(,
Has anybody heard about repairing ECMs ???
Hope the info ins this thread helps somebody else.. if you are having some similar problem and have a questions about what NOT to do let me know, JE
Thank you for your input,
Attachments:February 6, 2018 at 10:54 pm in reply to: Replace fuel pump relay now wont start 2006 Odyssey #886111Yes I will check that today at work, Also I noticed that the same relay is called for the ACcura TL, and one of my friends has one I try to get him to lend me his relay to check the OHMS in the coil. or even to put in my van see what happens
For now I took the old relay apart, and then “locked” the contacts together essentially, jumping the fuel pump. and that is how I’m driving now.
February 6, 2018 at 12:35 am in reply to: Replace fuel pump relay now wont start 2006 Odyssey #886095Situation Report!….
Al wiring is OK
Voltages OK..But for some reason the NEW relay does not actuate. .
like before i checked the voltage coming from ECM at the moment I turn key and it reads 5Volts for a couple of seconds. after measuring the voltage drop a cross the coil it reads about 1 Volt but still contact do not close.Question for every body here how much resistance (OHMS) should the coil read I’m getting 90Ohms in the new relay I measured all the other relays in the circuit and theu between 120 OHMS and 150OHMS coul I have gotten wrong relay ? the brand is DENSO from O’reilly with coil voltage 12V?
IDEAS?
PS
i really hipe it is not the ECM driver outputFebruary 5, 2018 at 9:09 pm in reply to: Replace fuel pump relay now wont start 2006 Odyssey #886079Also, I followed all the Circuit in the image and I have all the voltages, As for the ECM terminal I get 5V for a couple of seconds and 12V onthe other side so the relay powers up with 7V ( NOW I KNOW WHY I BURNT IT I TESTED IT WITH 12V 🙁 ) .
Followed the circuit for continuity, in case of wiring issues. with KEY OFF
then with the Key ON, it was 1am so I decided to continue today.
Check list for TODAY is
::- Confirm the RElay output gives 12 V
::- Follow the 12V all the way to the PUMP.Any inputs welcome and Thank YOU!!
February 5, 2018 at 9:03 pm in reply to: Replace fuel pump relay now wont start 2006 Odyssey #886078Hello yes when I tryed to Jump the pump it was on the Load side.
But I noticed that there is no 12V on the Load side of the relay until the Key is turned and that is when I tried to jump it….dumbthe reason I tried it with out turning the key is on the diagrams I have it says HOT ALL TIMES, this tuned out to NOT BE TRUE. so I know I did not cause any damage to the pump at least .
February 5, 2018 at 9:00 pm in reply to: Replace fuel pump relay now wont start 2006 Odyssey #886077Yes all fuses are good, including the Relay fuse (FUSE 8 under the hood)
Hi this weekend I swapped the coils so now the #4 cylinder is sparkking out of the #2 will be using the car this week to see If I can notice anny changes and re-check the plug this saturday.
will let you know what I find
Hello Tahnkyou for the coil SWAP Idea I will try that tomorrow and let you know
Rodolfo
Found something interesting on some sites the
LEFT axle for the automatic calls a length of 25 1/2″ like NAPA.
on others A/Z or rock auto the length is 25 9/16″so depending on where I get it, their is a 1/16″ difference.
toughts?
hello thanks for the reply,
so did some home work,. (Se picture) it looks like both axles between Automatic and Manual a the same about the number of splines and Teeth for the ABS,
the difference is the length. it is very little difference wonder, and A/Z does NOT supply the ABS tone ring for the axle they sell.
How much of an impact would fractions of in do in case I get the wrong ones??
tnxB)
Attachments:2004 Hyundai Elantra AutomaticTrans, 2.0 engine.
the Trim is no listed it has some features from the GLS, GT
ABS, TCS, Disc Brake in all 4 wheels. VVT.
Hi
No there are no codes, not even when it stalls. have not been able to get my hands on a spark tester all I did was pull the spark wire out while the car was running to hear the spark. I know this does not replace using the spark tester.
After the post the car did a really weird thing. after driving to work (about 10 miles) I parked and went to work after about 4~5 hours I went to drive out to lunch. and the car started rev up and down from 700 to 1500 rpm I looked at the scanner data and noticed the TPS value going up and down with the RPM.
So I disconned the TPS and it stop
tuned off the car re-connected the TPS
started the car and now the RPM wet all the way 3K RPM!!
Again I disconnected the TPS again after it seemed to get better I had a bunch of codes because I had been disconecting the TPS and IAC.
So i decided to clear the codes. as soon as the Check Engine light went off the RPMs jumped to 3k again so I just shut it off
when I went to go home some hours later no issues???????
except for wat I already mentioned in the original post.So any way searchhin for the cause
Hi just to give an update, the worst happend got a “refurbished” head. and since I was already doing that I got by timing belt watter punp and other related things changed.
But now the car is not running right and I got a P0341(CAMSHAFT sensor performance) code. been looking all over the internet and seems to be between timing and also OCV, VVT assembly and some other things.
I checked the sensor with a SCOPE it looks OK. don’t have the frequency VS RMP spec but it seems to respond pretty good to REV changes.
Is there a spec to check the Timing using the CRANKSAHFT and CAMSHAFT position sensor signals ?
SHOULD i START A NEW TREAD?
TAHNK YOU
the video is ok i looked at it before i tried to replace it.
no its broken and stuck inside the hole.
I tried a flute extractor it rotated but it is still stuck was only able to pull out small peices.
I also used WD40, also read some were to use DOT-3 breake fluid. any more ideas that could help
..I’ll keep posting progress…
thank youAttachments: - AuthorReplies