[micah russell]

Thanks, Sure will.

I purchased an OEM solenoid pack from ROCKAUTO, It was about the cheapest/quickest option. However, When I opened the box ( says Mopar and was sealed)

The thing is in a bag filled with transmission fluid, inside another bag, wrapped in some sort of paper.

Is it normal to be covered in fluid when new?

[micah russell]

Thanks, I can only assume it’s failing the continuity, or has a poor electrical connection.

I did check the continuity of them individually, The fluid looks fine, and from what I can tell is at the proper level ( using one of those amazon dipsticks). If anything, it would have too much.

That is what I wanted to check before, the wires going to and from the computer to the transmission. I always like to verify what the computer sees as a fault, however that just seems impossible without tearing down the front anyway. I’m going to go ahead and replace the filter, and the transmission fluid while I’m at it. I hate to do that with so many miles on it(215k), so I’ll probably do half old and half new, kind of like the procedure on the odyssey’s.

In the last 30-60 days here is what I have dealt with on this dodge:

one rear caliper stuck, then a month later the other side failed leaking all the brake fluid out

Starter

Intake gasket

Headlight

Transmission solenoids

alternator

I have to smack the dash to get the lights to come on for the gauges

The van randomly turned on the wipers, lights, brake lights, all kinds of random things happening due to an electrical connection needing cleaned on one of the sliding doors, and the gauges quit working. This was fun to find.

It’s crazy how everything goes from normal for over a year, to something failing every other day all at once.

I switched over to my 03 Honda odyssey so I can focus on the repairs it needs instead worrying about not having transportation, but first I have to install the IAC valve on that van, which happened while it was sitting for a year. 235k miles on it and aside from regular maintenance, have had to do like 3 things to it in the last 5 years of owning it, which are typical for it, Like a sliding door falling off due to the failed bearing, Coil pack failures( I replaced them all) , A/C compressor.

I can’t tell if it was how well the vehicles were taken care of before me or not, but I think next time around I’m going to stick to a Honda If I can afford it.

Anyway, thanks for the help.

[micah russell]

I have, I found a schematic but it still doesn’t make sense. Everything says basically what I have assumed, The solenoids are deemed bad when they do not function when called upon, not at startup.

I will say, This morning I did jump start the vehicle, but everything seemed fine then. The battery seems to die every 2 days it isn’t ran when it’s cold out. Never had an issue with it until this cold weather, and the battery is at one year old now.

Now, maybe just a coincidence, but a headlight also blew when driving it down the driveway. So I’ll check the battery voltage too. I went ahead and ordered the part and will start tearing it down tomorrow I guess.

• This reply was modified 3 years, 10 months ago by micah russell.

[micah russell]

Motor mounts?

[micah russell]

I have replaced cats on 3 vehicles in my life. Each time, I spent the time and chose a reputable brand, with good feedback. Each time, the cat went bad again within a year or two, and the code would come back. The cheaper cats are cheaper for a reason, and are almost worthless at a scrap yard compared to OEM for a reason. The Honda odyssey I removed the cat from fetched me over $200 at the scrap yard. The replacement that I replaced on it a year or two later, $20. This time I just cut it off and placed a pipe in it’s place. It’s an 03 model, and I hate to do that. However, The emissions even with the reputable replacement wasn’t even close to what it should have been and this van is going to the heap soon anyway.

Every time, I check and make sure it’s not burning oil, coolant, or any other type of thing that will damage the new cat before putting it in.

Anytime I did this, it was always a 10+ year old car, I always needed a grinder, the bolts always snapped or were rusted to pieces.

Usually, I just ended up
A: Cutting out the bad one, and welding in the new one
B: Cut out the bad one, and clamp the new one

Just depends on the location, and the value of the car to me.

If you have to remove the manifold, or do anything like that, if it were me, I’m either not doing it, or taking it to a shop. Every attempt at that has resulted in having to replace much more than just the CAT/exhaust. Usually the header is all rusted, and bolts need drilled and tapped when the break off, etc.

It’s a fun project, but don’t do it unless you have another ride is all I’m saying 🙂
I know in the future, I’m just going to deal with the code unless it’s giving me performance issues, Especially if it’s an older car unless it’s worth replacing it with an OEM cat.

[micah russell]

It was the rear passenger wheel cylinder, leaking from the piston for some reason. It looks like it dripped on the rim, and spun around and slung it everywhere instead of leaving any sort of puddle. Still insane this leaked out all the fluid overnight and didn’t leave a puddle.

Anyway, Thank you!

[micah russell]

That’s an excellent Idea, I’ll do that. I did go ahead and check the booster hose and removed the master, no fluid in there at all.

Now to check all the wheel cylinders once my fingers have feeling again.

[micah russell]

I wanted to add, this morning when it emptied completely out, once refilled the rear brakes still worked- the front did not function at all until the brake pedal was pumped at least 10 times or so. It had just sleeted/snowed here, so it was very obvious. After some pumping, the front started to work again.

Obviously I know the system now needs bleed as well, however, it may be some sort of symptom I am unaware of.

[Author]

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