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UPDATE!!
The traction control system operates. See video below:
Holding down the switch makes no difference in how it behaves, as if the control module is not getting the signal at all.
If the speakers are good quality, then they should perform just as well within their operating limits. Most of the arguments against the oval speakers seem to be either based on bogus science or only hold true with a combination of ridiculous power levels and careful measurement.
The 6×9 speakers will have different characteristics than the ones they are replacing, so you may need to tweak the equalizer a bit. Same thing when replacing 4 inch with 6.5 inch. The larger speakers will give you better bass and lower mid-range, but you’ll loose some high end if they aren’t properly designed two way.
Be sure to get the polarity correct because that would really make things sound weird if a speaker or two were 180 degrees out of phase from the others 😛 🙂
If the speakers are good quality, then they should perform just as well within their operating limits. Most of the arguments against the oval speakers seem to be either based on bogus science or only hold true with a combination of ridiculous power levels and careful measurement.
The 6×9 speakers will have different characteristics than the ones they are replacing, so you may need to tweak the equalizer a bit. Same thing when replacing 4 inch with 6.5 inch. The larger speakers will give you better bass and lower mid-range, but you’ll loose some high end if they aren’t properly designed two way.
Be sure to get the polarity correct because that would really make things sound weird if a speaker or two were 180 degrees out of phase from the others 😛 🙂
Re-post this in the “Service and Repair Questions Answered Here” section and you’ll get more replies. 🙂
What did you do for the tune up? Did it have problems before the tune up?
Fuel additives will only clean the fuel system, valves, and combustion chamber. The throttle body will need manual cleaning, same with the MAF.
Re-post this in the “Service and Repair Questions Answered Here” section and you’ll get more replies. 🙂
What did you do for the tune up? Did it have problems before the tune up?
Fuel additives will only clean the fuel system, valves, and combustion chamber. The throttle body will need manual cleaning, same with the MAF.
Many (all?) forced induction vehicles have a separate electric pump to power systems that need vacuum. Diesel engines, turbo or not, require a similar pump because all but a few designs have no throttle butterfly valve and thus no manifold vacuum.
It might be possible to use check valves and a larger vacuum reservoir in some setups. However it could run out of vacuum if the engine had boost for a while and many devices needed vacuum during that time.Many (all?) forced induction vehicles have a separate electric pump to power systems that need vacuum. Diesel engines, turbo or not, require a similar pump because all but a few designs have no throttle butterfly valve and thus no manifold vacuum.
It might be possible to use check valves and a larger vacuum reservoir in some setups. However it could run out of vacuum if the engine had boost for a while and many devices needed vacuum during that time.At a defensive driving course I took the instructors did a little test. They measured our reaction times using a brake light mounted on the dash to signal when to brake and timed how long it took between light turning on and the student braking.
My best case reaction time was 0.5 seconds.
Minor distraction of typing the year I was born on a pocket calculator upped it to 1.6 seconds!!
Some students didn’t notice the lights for 3 or 4 seconds. Really opened my eyes to how much attention the road demands.
As for tailgating, another demonstration showed just how screwed one would be if they were at a typical highway tailgating distance and the car ahead did a panic stop. I second the idea for a video about tailgating and needlessly aggressive drivers.At a defensive driving course I took the instructors did a little test. They measured our reaction times using a brake light mounted on the dash to signal when to brake and timed how long it took between light turning on and the student braking.
My best case reaction time was 0.5 seconds.
Minor distraction of typing the year I was born on a pocket calculator upped it to 1.6 seconds!!
Some students didn’t notice the lights for 3 or 4 seconds. Really opened my eyes to how much attention the road demands.
As for tailgating, another demonstration showed just how screwed one would be if they were at a typical highway tailgating distance and the car ahead did a panic stop. I second the idea for a video about tailgating and needlessly aggressive drivers.I’ll double check tomorrow but I believe it act the same under all circumstances. I’ll also see about getting or borrowing a scanner that can read ABS codes.
It’ll be tricky but I also thought to test if the traction control will still operate while the switch is held down and the light is on. A passenger will hold the switch and I’ll listen for the pump at a certain slippery pull out that often triggers the system.I’ll double check tomorrow but I believe it act the same under all circumstances. I’ll also see about getting or borrowing a scanner that can read ABS codes.
It’ll be tricky but I also thought to test if the traction control will still operate while the switch is held down and the light is on. A passenger will hold the switch and I’ll listen for the pump at a certain slippery pull out that often triggers the system.That sounds about right for unable to crank, especially if the battery isn’t in good shape.
Any idea on how old it is?That sounds about right for unable to crank, especially if the battery isn’t in good shape.
Any idea on how old it is?Does the car last any longer before it dies if you turn off all the gadgets, defroster, headlights, etc?
How old is the battery?
Are the connections at the battery terminals loose or corroded? Any burnt looking wires?
Measure the voltage at the battery with the car off and also with the engine running and report back what you find. See if there is any change in the voltage when you rev the engine up to 2000 rpm or so.
Normally the alternator warning light would illuminate if the charging system wasn’t working, but sometimes a weak alternator can keep the light off while not maintaining proper voltage. Check that the warning light itself works by turning the key to run position without starting the engine.Does the car last any longer before it dies if you turn off all the gadgets, defroster, headlights, etc?
How old is the battery?
Are the connections at the battery terminals loose or corroded? Any burnt looking wires?
Measure the voltage at the battery with the car off and also with the engine running and report back what you find. See if there is any change in the voltage when you rev the engine up to 2000 rpm or so.
Normally the alternator warning light would illuminate if the charging system wasn’t working, but sometimes a weak alternator can keep the light off while not maintaining proper voltage. Check that the warning light itself works by turning the key to run position without starting the engine.