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I did a civic last year or so, and I was off a little like that as well. I believe I was off a tooth, and I set back my cam shaft back 3 teeth and then routed my belt on. By the end of it, with the tension set I was pretty close. It wasnt 100% spot on, but from what I know, if your belt is tight in the front (meaning the direction of rotation doesnt slack) then your good.
Could be 100% wrong though.Go to harbor freight and pick up sockets, wrenches, ratchets, and screw drivers! Craigslist is also good, garage sales, estate sales, or buy a craftsman set. They are great because of their lifetime warranty.
Go to harbor freight and pick up sockets, wrenches, ratchets, and screw drivers! Craigslist is also good, garage sales, estate sales, or buy a craftsman set. They are great because of their lifetime warranty.
For the future,
I was able to located a instrument cluster that had been pulled off a working Honda. $80 dollars later the new instrument cluster is able to show correct reading on fuel gauge and temp gauge.
Im sure this was caused by a short that I had done.
also, this website had great insight on why a fuel gauge might read empty or full. And some things that could help you to rule out suspicions.
For the future,
I was able to located a instrument cluster that had been pulled off a working Honda. $80 dollars later the new instrument cluster is able to show correct reading on fuel gauge and temp gauge.
Im sure this was caused by a short that I had done.
also, this website had great insight on why a fuel gauge might read empty or full. And some things that could help you to rule out suspicions.
I had it plugged in when I was connecting the hazard switch, but I accidentally hooked it into the clock pig tail, when the car turned “ON” without the key in the ignition. It was for a few seconds before I realized I was in the wrong pig tail. Then I connected it to the hazard switch, and tested all my lights and things. I think thats when things got messed up…
I believe the screws help with holding the gauge in place, but also plays in continuity. I say that because the backing has all those highways of electricity going through them.
Im going to see if I can pull another gauge from the JY or order one online.
i appreciate the help college man.
I had it plugged in when I was connecting the hazard switch, but I accidentally hooked it into the clock pig tail, when the car turned “ON” without the key in the ignition. It was for a few seconds before I realized I was in the wrong pig tail. Then I connected it to the hazard switch, and tested all my lights and things. I think thats when things got messed up…
I believe the screws help with holding the gauge in place, but also plays in continuity. I say that because the backing has all those highways of electricity going through them.
Im going to see if I can pull another gauge from the JY or order one online.
i appreciate the help college man.
Yes, 2:21 has a clear show of the three screws on the back of the temp and fuel gauges.
I am clueless again, and believe I might have shorted something. Or have a ground issue somewhere.
Fuses good.
Yes, 2:21 has a clear show of the three screws on the back of the temp and fuel gauges.
I am clueless again, and believe I might have shorted something. Or have a ground issue somewhere.
Fuses good.
Pulled the instrument cluster, tested the fuel gauge and temp gauge using a Power Probe. Both needles move to “F” or “H” when power is supplied to the “+” side and ground clip is attached to the 3rd screw labeled “F” for fuel or “T” for temp. When ground clip is attached to the “-” screw and power supplied at the “+” no needle movement happens.
Also testing the fuel gauge at the sending unit. 11.3 volts is showing on the multimeter. From research ive done its only suppose to be @ 5-8 volts.
Pulled the instrument cluster, tested the fuel gauge and temp gauge using a Power Probe. Both needles move to “F” or “H” when power is supplied to the “+” side and ground clip is attached to the 3rd screw labeled “F” for fuel or “T” for temp. When ground clip is attached to the “-” screw and power supplied at the “+” no needle movement happens.
Also testing the fuel gauge at the sending unit. 11.3 volts is showing on the multimeter. From research ive done its only suppose to be @ 5-8 volts.
I was actually watching this video today when I was pulling codes for my 92 Honda civic hatchback. Very useful.
My 97 doesn’t currently have any codes thrown, just the ABS and SRS codes. No brakes or bags, but the engines fine!