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Broke down and bought a new ignition switch which was $200. It did not solve my problem.
Tested the clutch safety switch, and found it was not working properly. Turns out my clutch has a missing piece that closes the circuit to my clutch switch. I repaired it, and it now works. The car starts as it should.
Broke down and bought a new ignition switch which was $200. It did not solve my problem.
Tested the clutch safety switch, and found it was not working properly. Turns out my clutch has a missing piece that closes the circuit to my clutch switch. I repaired it, and it now works. The car starts as it should.
So I started to trace back the wiring from the starter. ( Trying to start from scratch again.)
I traced it back to a harness just before the wiring harness disappeared into the fire wall, and powered the blck/white wire there, and the starter cranked. I was looking at the wiring diagram in my Haynes manual, and I saw that the blue/white wire was connected to STS. Im guessing that means starter switch? I took a chance and powered that and the starter cranked.Now if I power directly to the relay the wire that cranks the engine, would that indicate a bad ignition switch?
I cant find ANY useful information on a wiring diagram for this main relay. Everyone just says to solder the joints and pop it back in. To me that seems only half hearted to not test it after that work had been done. From this wiring diagram Im not sure how I could jump it to see if what I had done had any effect.
So I started to trace back the wiring from the starter. ( Trying to start from scratch again.)
I traced it back to a harness just before the wiring harness disappeared into the fire wall, and powered the blck/white wire there, and the starter cranked. I was looking at the wiring diagram in my Haynes manual, and I saw that the blue/white wire was connected to STS. Im guessing that means starter switch? I took a chance and powered that and the starter cranked.Now if I power directly to the relay the wire that cranks the engine, would that indicate a bad ignition switch?
I cant find ANY useful information on a wiring diagram for this main relay. Everyone just says to solder the joints and pop it back in. To me that seems only half hearted to not test it after that work had been done. From this wiring diagram Im not sure how I could jump it to see if what I had done had any effect.
Update:
I put the key in the ON ( II ) position, and took the ignition wire off from the starter, and placed the power probe on the terminal ( where the ign wire was ). The Power Probe (PP) read ground, and then I powered the PP when the starter cranked and turned over the engine successfully. The car began to run.
Im going to verify again my ignition switch, and make sure that all the lines are getting power as they should.
Will update when I get more info.
Update:
I put the key in the ON ( II ) position, and took the ignition wire off from the starter, and placed the power probe on the terminal ( where the ign wire was ). The Power Probe (PP) read ground, and then I powered the PP when the starter cranked and turned over the engine successfully. The car began to run.
Im going to verify again my ignition switch, and make sure that all the lines are getting power as they should.
Will update when I get more info.
So shortly after I posted this, I replaced the starter and went back to have the starter tested. The clamp meter showed “0”. I havent had a dead battery since I changed it. So I believe the starter was drawing 80A. or possibly .80ma.
Thanks for reading.
So shortly after I posted this, I replaced the starter and went back to have the starter tested. The clamp meter showed “0”. I havent had a dead battery since I changed it. So I believe the starter was drawing 80A. or possibly .80ma.
Thanks for reading.
Scott, He unhooked the + battery cable from the battery to the fuse box, and then clamped a meter on the + going from the starter to the battery and it was pulling 80a. I was there when he was showing me. and this was done with nothing going on. No key or anything.
I cant for the life of my find info on the web regarding starters pulling amps without anything in the car. Ive read about the amps drawn with no load. But I cant figure logically how a starter should be pulling anything when theres no key in the ignition. Also, if the starter was the problem then why doesnt it show when I do the test?
confused.
Scott, He unhooked the + battery cable from the battery to the fuse box, and then clamped a meter on the + going from the starter to the battery and it was pulling 80a. I was there when he was showing me. and this was done with nothing going on. No key or anything.
I cant for the life of my find info on the web regarding starters pulling amps without anything in the car. Ive read about the amps drawn with no load. But I cant figure logically how a starter should be pulling anything when theres no key in the ignition. Also, if the starter was the problem then why doesnt it show when I do the test?
confused.
I believe the white smoke is constant. Its been really cold outside, so its hard to tell. But there is a lot of moisture on the ground where the exhaust is.
I believe the white smoke is constant. Its been really cold outside, so its hard to tell. But there is a lot of moisture on the ground where the exhaust is.
I did a civic last year or so, and I was off a little like that as well. I believe I was off a tooth, and I set back my cam shaft back 3 teeth and then routed my belt on. By the end of it, with the tension set I was pretty close. It wasnt 100% spot on, but from what I know, if your belt is tight in the front (meaning the direction of rotation doesnt slack) then your good.
Could be 100% wrong though.
