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Thank you Jotmon!
Any idea on where we can find those circuit breakers? Are they on the motor itself?
Engine is an ’92 Chevrolet 3.1L V6 TBI
There’s a single coil ignition system which we aready replaced with no effect.
The only thing that really changed something was a shot of valve cleaner in the fuel filter.
Now the problem comes and goes, now it runs good, the next moment it misfires. Pulls better after the valve cleaner but not as before…
Engine is an ’92 Chevrolet 3.1L V6 TBI
There’s a single coil ignition system which we aready replaced with no effect.
The only thing that really changed something was a shot of valve cleaner in the fuel filter.
Now the problem comes and goes, now it runs good, the next moment it misfires. Pulls better after the valve cleaner but not as before…
Today we replaced the Ignition Coil – same symptoms.
I had a problem with the Ignition Module on another car – it didn’t start when that happened. I didn’t knew it could also malfunction.
Something interesting happened when we changed the fuel filter – we put some injectors/valve cleaner in the new filter and the engine ran and pulled strong for a while. After that it started to misfire again in 2 hours of running perfectly. Now sometimes it runs ok and sometimes it acts up.
Is there any way to fix this more permanently? We thought of dumping the whole bottle of valve cleaner through the throttle body but a mechanic told us that we can burn the valves this way.
Today we replaced the Ignition Coil – same symptoms.
I had a problem with the Ignition Module on another car – it didn’t start when that happened. I didn’t knew it could also malfunction.
Something interesting happened when we changed the fuel filter – we put some injectors/valve cleaner in the new filter and the engine ran and pulled strong for a while. After that it started to misfire again in 2 hours of running perfectly. Now sometimes it runs ok and sometimes it acts up.
Is there any way to fix this more permanently? We thought of dumping the whole bottle of valve cleaner through the throttle body but a mechanic told us that we can burn the valves this way.
We have found the 32RH/36RH adjusting procedure in the service manual:
Front Band Adjustment
The front (kickdown) band adjusting screw is located on the left side of the transmission case above the manual valve and throttle valve levers.
1. Raise vehicle.
2. Loosen band adjusting screw locknut. Then back locknut off 3-5 turns. Be sure adjusting screw turns freely in case. Apply lubricant to screw threads if necessary.
3. Tighten band adjusting screw to 8 Nm (72 in. lbs.) torque with Inch Pound Torque Wrench C-3380-A, a 3-in. extension and 5/16 socket.
4. Back off front band adjusting screw 2-1/4 turns on 32RH or 2-7/8 turns on 36RH.
5. Hold adjuster screw in position and tighten locknut to 41 Nm (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
6. Lower vehicle.Rear Band Adjustment
The transmission oil pan must be removed for access to the rear band adjusting screw.
1. Raise vehicle.
2. Remove transmission oil pan and drain fluid.
3. Loosen band adjusting screw locknut 5-6 turns. Be sure adjusting screw turns freely on lever.
4. Tighten adjusting screw to 8 Nm (72 in. lbs.) torque
5. Back off adjusting screw 4 turns on 32RH or 2 turns on 36RH.
6. Hold adjusting screw in place and tighten locknut to 34 Nm (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
7. Position new gasket on oil pan and install pan on transmission. Tighten pan bolts to 17 Nm (13 ft. lbs.) torque.A question for the knowledgeable tech is if this procedure applies the same to a 120.000 miles transmission? Is there anything else to know before adjusting the bands on such a transmission?
We have found the 32RH/36RH adjusting procedure in the service manual:
Front Band Adjustment
The front (kickdown) band adjusting screw is located on the left side of the transmission case above the manual valve and throttle valve levers.
1. Raise vehicle.
2. Loosen band adjusting screw locknut. Then back locknut off 3-5 turns. Be sure adjusting screw turns freely in case. Apply lubricant to screw threads if necessary.
3. Tighten band adjusting screw to 8 Nm (72 in. lbs.) torque with Inch Pound Torque Wrench C-3380-A, a 3-in. extension and 5/16 socket.
4. Back off front band adjusting screw 2-1/4 turns on 32RH or 2-7/8 turns on 36RH.
5. Hold adjuster screw in position and tighten locknut to 41 Nm (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
6. Lower vehicle.Rear Band Adjustment
The transmission oil pan must be removed for access to the rear band adjusting screw.
1. Raise vehicle.
2. Remove transmission oil pan and drain fluid.
3. Loosen band adjusting screw locknut 5-6 turns. Be sure adjusting screw turns freely on lever.
4. Tighten adjusting screw to 8 Nm (72 in. lbs.) torque
5. Back off adjusting screw 4 turns on 32RH or 2 turns on 36RH.
6. Hold adjusting screw in place and tighten locknut to 34 Nm (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
7. Position new gasket on oil pan and install pan on transmission. Tighten pan bolts to 17 Nm (13 ft. lbs.) torque.A question for the knowledgeable tech is if this procedure applies the same to a 120.000 miles transmission? Is there anything else to know before adjusting the bands on such a transmission?
After we changed the dist. cap. rotor, spark plugs & wires with a quality set and thrown in a MSD coil for good measure performance comes and goes, one day it pulls great when you press on the gas pedal, the other it’s sluggish and slow in taking off from a stop.
New development after the tune-up – at first start if you try to take off right away the engine misfires and has no acceleration. After a few minutes it behaves more or less normal.
Airflow and exhaust are good, no fouled plugs, clean tailpipe but performance is like we’re burning hot air instead of gasoline… Any idea on what to try next?
I’m thinking about TPS or Oxygen Sensors but I don’t know if those could cause this kind of issues.
:SAfter we changed the dist. cap. rotor, spark plugs & wires with a quality set and thrown in a MSD coil for good measure performance comes and goes, one day it pulls great when you press on the gas pedal, the other it’s sluggish and slow in taking off from a stop.
New development after the tune-up – at first start if you try to take off right away the engine misfires and has no acceleration. After a few minutes it behaves more or less normal.
Airflow and exhaust are good, no fouled plugs, clean tailpipe but performance is like we’re burning hot air instead of gasoline… Any idea on what to try next?
I’m thinking about TPS or Oxygen Sensors but I don’t know if those could cause this kind of issues.
:SSolved the problem – we found a scuffed spark plug wire and decided it’s time for a tune-up.
Changed the spark plug wires, plugs, dist. cap and rotor and now the usual performance is back.
We also have a MSD coil on the way since the old coil is the only thing left to change for a complete tune-up. Will let you know if there’s any improvement after that.
Solved the problem – we found a scuffed spark plug wire and decided it’s time for a tune-up.
Changed the spark plug wires, plugs, dist. cap and rotor and now the usual performance is back.
We also have a MSD coil on the way since the old coil is the only thing left to change for a complete tune-up. Will let you know if there’s any improvement after that.
Solved the problem – we found a scuffed spark plug wire and decided it’s time for a tune-up.
Changed the spark plug wires, plugs, dist. cap and rotor and now the usual performance is back.
We also have a MSD coil on the way since the old coil is the only thing left to change for a complete tune-up. Will let you know if there’s any change after that.
Solved the problem – we found a scuffed spark plug wire and decided it’s time for a tune-up.
Changed the spark plug wires, plugs, dist. cap and rotor and now the usual performance is back.
We also have a MSD coil on the way since the old coil is the only thing left to change for a complete tune-up. Will let you know if there’s any change after that.
’96 3.9L V6 Magnum
Performance is getting sluggish by the day so I’m ready to start with a general tune-up and see where that goes – most of the original ignition components seem untouched on this engine…
’96 3.9L V6 Magnum
Performance is getting sluggish by the day so I’m ready to start with a general tune-up and see where that goes – most of the original ignition components seem untouched on this engine…
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