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[quote=”thisisbuod” post=40213]Just so you know, no matter what anyone tells you do not use rtv or any gasket sealant on your diff gasket. Just make sure the surfaces are clean and dry.[/quote]
YES! In his case, Dont even remove the cover because they arnt leaking, just suck the fluid with a shopvac if there is no drain plug. and then fill it up!
As for the code, Check this video out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5icTmYItwiE
I’m from Michigan where we don’t have emissions tests, so I would say worry about that later, get the coolant leak fixed first.
If you do have to pass emissions tests, I would still say fix it after you get your coolant leak fixed first.
As for the code, Check this video out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5icTmYItwiE
I’m from Michigan where we don’t have emissions tests, so I would say worry about that later, get the coolant leak fixed first.
If you do have to pass emissions tests, I would still say fix it after you get your coolant leak fixed first.
Here’s what I think. Coolant is getting on your belt.
To find out which if its the serpentine belt or the timing belt is pretty easy. Look to see if the outside belt (serpentine belt) is slippery and sticky. If it is, there is the source of your noise.
Now the question is where is the coolant coming from? This is actually pretty easy to find.
Rent a pressure tester: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/CST-Pressure-Tester-Adapters/_/N-263r?itemIdentifier=84330_0_0_
Here’s a video how to use it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hUzOTnsWImI
most parts stores you can rent for free. You pay for the cost of the tool, use it, and when you are done bring it back and you get a complete refund
Pump it up and see where the coolant is leaking. Once you test it and find the leak take pictures and get back with us for the repair!!
Good Luck!
Here’s what I think. Coolant is getting on your belt.
To find out which if its the serpentine belt or the timing belt is pretty easy. Look to see if the outside belt (serpentine belt) is slippery and sticky. If it is, there is the source of your noise.
Now the question is where is the coolant coming from? This is actually pretty easy to find.
Rent a pressure tester: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/CST-Pressure-Tester-Adapters/_/N-263r?itemIdentifier=84330_0_0_
Here’s a video how to use it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hUzOTnsWImI
most parts stores you can rent for free. You pay for the cost of the tool, use it, and when you are done bring it back and you get a complete refund
Pump it up and see where the coolant is leaking. Once you test it and find the leak take pictures and get back with us for the repair!!
Good Luck!
Chevy, Ford, Dodge…Take your pick. I would recommend having a mechanic look at it for ~$90, it could save you ~$1000’s in costly repairs!
Although these vans are very functional, they are very cramped under the hood, and will probably have costly repairs for when/if there are problems.
One problem I am aware of is Chevy or GMC vans from ~96 to ~98:
Chevy’s seem to have a problem with the computer, check this video out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dCyPkbli6zs
So I would stay away from that year van. But any others are equal. Just do regular maintenance as indicated by your owners manual 🙂
Take care and good luck in your adventure with your van and family 🙂
One last note: an important thing to keep in mind: In the event of a rear wheel blowout it is impossible to regain control in any extended wheel base van. I couldn’t find an article to back up this fact but here is a useful article: http://kansascity.legalexaminer.com/defective-and-dangerous-products/did-you-know-15-passenger-vans-may-be-the-most-dangerous-vehicle-on-the-road.aspx?googleid=285892
Here is a video on dual rear wheels for the van and a savior story:http://vanangels.wordpress.com/dual-wheels/
Chevy, Ford, Dodge…Take your pick. I would recommend having a mechanic look at it for ~$90, it could save you ~$1000’s in costly repairs!
Although these vans are very functional, they are very cramped under the hood, and will probably have costly repairs for when/if there are problems.
One problem I am aware of is Chevy or GMC vans from ~96 to ~98:
Chevy’s seem to have a problem with the computer, check this video out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dCyPkbli6zs
So I would stay away from that year van. But any others are equal. Just do regular maintenance as indicated by your owners manual 🙂
Take care and good luck in your adventure with your van and family 🙂
One last note: an important thing to keep in mind: In the event of a rear wheel blowout it is impossible to regain control in any extended wheel base van. I couldn’t find an article to back up this fact but here is a useful article: http://kansascity.legalexaminer.com/defective-and-dangerous-products/did-you-know-15-passenger-vans-may-be-the-most-dangerous-vehicle-on-the-road.aspx?googleid=285892
Here is a video on dual rear wheels for the van and a savior story:http://vanangels.wordpress.com/dual-wheels/
There’s a few things going on here: and they could be serious.
From what I understand you just did your brakes not that long ago and they are already worn. That is probably not your fault it that is the case. You probably bought an organic pad material. They are quieter, but make more dust and wear faster and are generally softer. That is my first assumption. Replace them with a ceramic material. They are OE equipment on most cars and trucks. Try this part number on http://www.RockAuto.com : QC369 (for a 1999 1500 dodge ram) If you chose a semi metallic pad they have good life but chew up rotors because they are more abrasive. They are recommended if you tow a lot. (I read that you don’t do much towing)
Secondly, check the shims: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WsaEtMaW6Qw they could be causing the noise.
thirdly, Check your ball joints, tie rods, idler arm, pitman arm joints for wear or torn boots, they could be causing your steering noise, Replace them even if you suspect them to be bad!!! They cannot be over looked. If you think they are fine, Grease them with a grease gun. This should be done every oil change. If you decide to replace them remember to get an alignment after too.
Fourthly, Change your diff fluids! it is an easy process and is preventative maintenance. If you look at your owners manual it will say how often to change them. Hopefully you still have it. Look for Eric’s video coming out this week for the procedure.
Also, check your tire pressure, that can cause uneven steering resistance and cause the steering pump to work harder, causing noise.
I would recommend checking these first. These are the inexpensive parts and if they good, then change power steering fluid (which you may choose to do anyways, check your owners manual if they require you to change ps fluid) If you are still having steering noises, your power steering rack may be to blame, lets cross that bridge when/if we get there. I hope this helps!!!
Good Luck in your adventure with your truck!
There’s a few things going on here: and they could be serious.
From what I understand you just did your brakes not that long ago and they are already worn. That is probably not your fault it that is the case. You probably bought an organic pad material. They are quieter, but make more dust and wear faster and are generally softer. That is my first assumption. Replace them with a ceramic material. They are OE equipment on most cars and trucks. Try this part number on http://www.RockAuto.com : QC369 (for a 1999 1500 dodge ram) If you chose a semi metallic pad they have good life but chew up rotors because they are more abrasive. They are recommended if you tow a lot. (I read that you don’t do much towing)
Secondly, check the shims: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WsaEtMaW6Qw they could be causing the noise.
thirdly, Check your ball joints, tie rods, idler arm, pitman arm joints for wear or torn boots, they could be causing your steering noise, Replace them even if you suspect them to be bad!!! They cannot be over looked. If you think they are fine, Grease them with a grease gun. This should be done every oil change. If you decide to replace them remember to get an alignment after too.
Fourthly, Change your diff fluids! it is an easy process and is preventative maintenance. If you look at your owners manual it will say how often to change them. Hopefully you still have it. Look for Eric’s video coming out this week for the procedure.
Also, check your tire pressure, that can cause uneven steering resistance and cause the steering pump to work harder, causing noise.
I would recommend checking these first. These are the inexpensive parts and if they good, then change power steering fluid (which you may choose to do anyways, check your owners manual if they require you to change ps fluid) If you are still having steering noises, your power steering rack may be to blame, lets cross that bridge when/if we get there. I hope this helps!!!
Good Luck in your adventure with your truck!
My wish list: (what I can think of at the moment)
1. Power Probe 3
2. scan tool with live data: (similar to this one) http://www.sears.com/autel-us-auds708-maxidas-diagnostic-scan-tool/p-SPM6203969603?prdNo=8&blockNo=33&blockType=G33′
3. hydraulic press
4. lift
My wish list: (what I can think of at the moment)
1. Power Probe 3
2. scan tool with live data: (similar to this one) http://www.sears.com/autel-us-auds708-maxidas-diagnostic-scan-tool/p-SPM6203969603?prdNo=8&blockNo=33&blockType=G33′
3. hydraulic press
4. lift
scan tool with live data:
My suggestion: (if you have this kind of cash to spend) http://www.sears.com/autel-us-auds708-maxidas-diagnostic-scan-tool/p-SPM6203969603?prdNo=8&blockNo=33&blockType=G33
scan tool with live data:
My suggestion: (if you have this kind of cash to spend) http://www.sears.com/autel-us-auds708-maxidas-diagnostic-scan-tool/p-SPM6203969603?prdNo=8&blockNo=33&blockType=G33
I would hold onto your cash, And possibly talk to a few techs in the dealer that you are looking into. They will tell you the tools they use the most.
However, as a technician that works on all cars, I would recommend a tool set with a 1/4″ drive, 3/8″ drive and 1/2″ drive ratchets. deep and shallow sockets and some wrenches.
Look for one like this: https://www.google.com/shopping/product/10273439847229850496?hl=en&sclient=psy-ab&q=craftsman%20set&oq=craftsman+set&gs_l=serp.3..0l3.9625.11202.2.11305.4.3.0.1.1.0.136.234.1j1.2.0…0.0…1c.1.VLcmC15U11w&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.&bpcl=39314241&ion=1&biw=1152&bih=647&sa=X&ei=u-i6UO7oHsf1ygGBnoD4Cw&ved=0CGwQ8wIwAQ I use these on every car I work on.
As you keep working keep a log of the tools you had to borrow and then buy those tools. I can’t stress enough to check GARAGE SALES and local house auctions
I bought a set like this one for $5!!! I use it every time I’m in the garage.
If you insist on getting an impact gun from harbor freight. I’ve heard good things about them, none bad. and they go on sale for as low as $68! and you can buy a 2 year replacement package for like $20 and they will replace it in those 2 years for any reason.
That is a good place to start, but bargain shop! Maybe spend 1/2 of your savings and save the other half for specialty tools once you have been working in the shop for a month or so.
Good luck!
I would hold onto your cash, And possibly talk to a few techs in the dealer that you are looking into. They will tell you the tools they use the most.
However, as a technician that works on all cars, I would recommend a tool set with a 1/4″ drive, 3/8″ drive and 1/2″ drive ratchets. deep and shallow sockets and some wrenches.
Look for one like this: https://www.google.com/shopping/product/10273439847229850496?hl=en&sclient=psy-ab&q=craftsman%20set&oq=craftsman+set&gs_l=serp.3..0l3.9625.11202.2.11305.4.3.0.1.1.0.136.234.1j1.2.0…0.0…1c.1.VLcmC15U11w&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.&bpcl=39314241&ion=1&biw=1152&bih=647&sa=X&ei=u-i6UO7oHsf1ygGBnoD4Cw&ved=0CGwQ8wIwAQ I use these on every car I work on.
As you keep working keep a log of the tools you had to borrow and then buy those tools. I can’t stress enough to check GARAGE SALES and local house auctions
I bought a set like this one for $5!!! I use it every time I’m in the garage.
If you insist on getting an impact gun from harbor freight. I’ve heard good things about them, none bad. and they go on sale for as low as $68! and you can buy a 2 year replacement package for like $20 and they will replace it in those 2 years for any reason.
That is a good place to start, but bargain shop! Maybe spend 1/2 of your savings and save the other half for specialty tools once you have been working in the shop for a month or so.
Good luck!