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Well….turned out I installed the lower ball joint over the control arm instead of bolting it under it….So took another few hours to fix that.
Did some spraying on my tailgate. Finally got it put back on after quite a long few months.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/cvIdJVu.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/N8nYNtK.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/khigEW9.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/GCHbaD2.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/4GOuSyJ.jpg[/IMG]
Came out a little too purple for me. And it didnt buff out when I was finished either. Spent a few hours cutting it flat and no matter what compound I used…never buffed back to a shine. So I cleared it again after running it down with some 600 and had to leave the orange peel. Heard some great things about this clear and I dont think I will be shooting it again…
Well….turned out I installed the lower ball joint over the control arm instead of bolting it under it….So took another few hours to fix that.
Did some spraying on my tailgate. Finally got it put back on after quite a long few months.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/cvIdJVu.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/N8nYNtK.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/khigEW9.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/GCHbaD2.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/4GOuSyJ.jpg[/IMG]
Came out a little too purple for me. And it didnt buff out when I was finished either. Spent a few hours cutting it flat and no matter what compound I used…never buffed back to a shine. So I cleared it again after running it down with some 600 and had to leave the orange peel. Heard some great things about this clear and I dont think I will be shooting it again…
Bad Idea. Unless you have a very sturdy engine stand for engine break in. This include radiator, fan, and accessories. Not to mention you have to have ECU plugged into the engine and all the sensors otherwise you will have driveablity problems…
Why would you want to run the engine outside of the vehicle?
Bad Idea. Unless you have a very sturdy engine stand for engine break in. This include radiator, fan, and accessories. Not to mention you have to have ECU plugged into the engine and all the sensors otherwise you will have driveablity problems…
Why would you want to run the engine outside of the vehicle?
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/WuM8QIx.jpg[/IMG]
This is probably close to what your suspension looks like….
Now when you say the boot is broken on the upper control arm…do you mean the ball joint? This is not really a bearing…Although, im none too familiar with the Honda Passport.
Now they can be broken and still be good. They will fail as dirty and contaminates with cause increased wear. The best way to tell if a ball joint is to test the loaded ball joint which is the ball joint closest to the torsion bar or the seat of the spring. These wear the fastest. If you have an indicator ball joint, look at the grease fitting. If its flushed or recessed, it is worn .050″ and should be replaced along with the upper ball joint.
Now if you have a non indicator, you must raise the vehicle and unload the ball joint. Place a jack under the lower control arm and raise the vehicle an inch or two. Use a pry bar under the tire on the ground and lift up the tire. If it moves more than .050″ of an inch(thickness of a nickel) up and down.
If your load carrying ball joint is the upper ball joint, you need to use a special tool (or a 2×4) between hte upper control arm and the frame. Jack up the frame and raise the wheel a few inches. The wood will keep the weight off the upper ball joint. Now use a pry bar to lift the wheel and excessive vertical movement in the ball joint itself means replace.
And to the CV shaft. These are EXTREMELY important to keep extremely clean. Usually a torn boot means imminent death. Unless you want to pull the CV out entirely….clean out the joint thoroughly, and replace the boots only if and if the surfaces are clean.
Usually a few blocks where I come from and your CV shaft is toast. I had one small tear in the shaft and within a week, the boot was completely missing and every bearing was missing and the joint was completely separated.
Now if you want to clean it out and replace it(and it is not beyond repair), you need CV boot replacement kit. The split boot kits do not last as long. They are frankly, garbage. You will need a punch, hammer, and a vice.
I would fully recommend replacing it with a remaned joint. Usually they come with warranties and are pretty cheap. You can take in the old one and get a deduction(a core cost).
Now, on a Nissan(last one I did that was a jap)
Go to auto part store and order new CV shaft(one day in advance so you can have it the next day)
Break lug nuts free
Raise vehicle
Jack Stands
Remove tire
Remove caliper
Hang caliper as to not stretch brake line
Remove locking hub
remove C clamp on axle shaft
Remove disc
Remove Cotter Key on tie rod
Remove tie rod nut
Separate tire rod from steering knuckle
Remove cotter Key on castellated nuts(on ball joints)
Remove Castellated nuts
Knock steering knuckle off of ball joints
If you are replacing ball joints, use a pickle fork to do this job or ball joint separator Otherwise you need to use a hammer on the side of the steering knuckle and hope that the shock breaks it free. Use a 3 lb hammer and hit it like a man, not a little girl.
Unbolt 6 bolts from the inboard CV shaft flange.
Remove CV shaft
Go to Auto Parts Store
Give them your CV
Get new CV
Bolt inner flange in
Put steering knuckle through outboard shaft
place back on ball joints
Place nuts on ball joints holding steering knuckle in
Torque ball joints and replace cotter keys wih new ones
Put tie rod back in and torque nut and use new cotter keys
replace brake disc
Replace caliper
Put new C clip in on the outboard shaft
Put manual locking hubs back on
replace wheel
lower vehicle
Torque lug nuts to specNow…I think I got most of the steps. As you can see, there is a LOT to take apart and put back in, and with most steering and suspension work, everything is siezed and stuck together. You will need basic hand tools, larger wrenches for ball joints(7/8 was moog and the ones i replaced where well over 1″), Tie rod separator/ball joint separator, jacks, jack stands, retaining ring pliers, hammers, side cutters, brake clean, pb blaster/liquid wrench, and a lot of patience.
Now if you don’t have much auto experience or are mechanically inclined, find someone who is and buy a stack of beer and ask ’em to help. There is a lot of steps, swearing, and frustration that will go on if you do not know what you are doing.
A shop may recommend replacing upper control arm because its cheaper to replace it if the bushings are shot and the ball joints are bad than replacing everything on the control arm. But don’t make assumptions without first checking it out. Not all shops are out to make a buck. I worked with one that was very fair and wasn’t out to screw people.
Hope that all helps
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/WuM8QIx.jpg[/IMG]
This is probably close to what your suspension looks like….
Now when you say the boot is broken on the upper control arm…do you mean the ball joint? This is not really a bearing…Although, im none too familiar with the Honda Passport.
Now they can be broken and still be good. They will fail as dirty and contaminates with cause increased wear. The best way to tell if a ball joint is to test the loaded ball joint which is the ball joint closest to the torsion bar or the seat of the spring. These wear the fastest. If you have an indicator ball joint, look at the grease fitting. If its flushed or recessed, it is worn .050″ and should be replaced along with the upper ball joint.
Now if you have a non indicator, you must raise the vehicle and unload the ball joint. Place a jack under the lower control arm and raise the vehicle an inch or two. Use a pry bar under the tire on the ground and lift up the tire. If it moves more than .050″ of an inch(thickness of a nickel) up and down.
If your load carrying ball joint is the upper ball joint, you need to use a special tool (or a 2×4) between hte upper control arm and the frame. Jack up the frame and raise the wheel a few inches. The wood will keep the weight off the upper ball joint. Now use a pry bar to lift the wheel and excessive vertical movement in the ball joint itself means replace.
And to the CV shaft. These are EXTREMELY important to keep extremely clean. Usually a torn boot means imminent death. Unless you want to pull the CV out entirely….clean out the joint thoroughly, and replace the boots only if and if the surfaces are clean.
Usually a few blocks where I come from and your CV shaft is toast. I had one small tear in the shaft and within a week, the boot was completely missing and every bearing was missing and the joint was completely separated.
Now if you want to clean it out and replace it(and it is not beyond repair), you need CV boot replacement kit. The split boot kits do not last as long. They are frankly, garbage. You will need a punch, hammer, and a vice.
I would fully recommend replacing it with a remaned joint. Usually they come with warranties and are pretty cheap. You can take in the old one and get a deduction(a core cost).
Now, on a Nissan(last one I did that was a jap)
Go to auto part store and order new CV shaft(one day in advance so you can have it the next day)
Break lug nuts free
Raise vehicle
Jack Stands
Remove tire
Remove caliper
Hang caliper as to not stretch brake line
Remove locking hub
remove C clamp on axle shaft
Remove disc
Remove Cotter Key on tie rod
Remove tie rod nut
Separate tire rod from steering knuckle
Remove cotter Key on castellated nuts(on ball joints)
Remove Castellated nuts
Knock steering knuckle off of ball joints
If you are replacing ball joints, use a pickle fork to do this job or ball joint separator Otherwise you need to use a hammer on the side of the steering knuckle and hope that the shock breaks it free. Use a 3 lb hammer and hit it like a man, not a little girl.
Unbolt 6 bolts from the inboard CV shaft flange.
Remove CV shaft
Go to Auto Parts Store
Give them your CV
Get new CV
Bolt inner flange in
Put steering knuckle through outboard shaft
place back on ball joints
Place nuts on ball joints holding steering knuckle in
Torque ball joints and replace cotter keys wih new ones
Put tie rod back in and torque nut and use new cotter keys
replace brake disc
Replace caliper
Put new C clip in on the outboard shaft
Put manual locking hubs back on
replace wheel
lower vehicle
Torque lug nuts to specNow…I think I got most of the steps. As you can see, there is a LOT to take apart and put back in, and with most steering and suspension work, everything is siezed and stuck together. You will need basic hand tools, larger wrenches for ball joints(7/8 was moog and the ones i replaced where well over 1″), Tie rod separator/ball joint separator, jacks, jack stands, retaining ring pliers, hammers, side cutters, brake clean, pb blaster/liquid wrench, and a lot of patience.
Now if you don’t have much auto experience or are mechanically inclined, find someone who is and buy a stack of beer and ask ’em to help. There is a lot of steps, swearing, and frustration that will go on if you do not know what you are doing.
A shop may recommend replacing upper control arm because its cheaper to replace it if the bushings are shot and the ball joints are bad than replacing everything on the control arm. But don’t make assumptions without first checking it out. Not all shops are out to make a buck. I worked with one that was very fair and wasn’t out to screw people.
Hope that all helps
Got it taken care of in the parking lot today after class…-4 with windchill and four inches of fresh snow. Had to run to four parts stores before I got one, and thankfully it just barely fit….None of the parts stores had a tool to install it, so I just had to use a dull pair of side cutters to crimp it.
One store gave me one that they said was adjustable, and i couldnt get the band to do anything. I believe it was a band-it jr. Another store said I had to buy a whole kit and I wasnt going to do that, one store wanted to sell me a whole new CV even thought the band broke and it hadnt been driven since. Last store got me one that would fit and offered me a job.
Got it taken care of in the parking lot today after class…-4 with windchill and four inches of fresh snow. Had to run to four parts stores before I got one, and thankfully it just barely fit….None of the parts stores had a tool to install it, so I just had to use a dull pair of side cutters to crimp it.
One store gave me one that they said was adjustable, and i couldnt get the band to do anything. I believe it was a band-it jr. Another store said I had to buy a whole kit and I wasnt going to do that, one store wanted to sell me a whole new CV even thought the band broke and it hadnt been driven since. Last store got me one that would fit and offered me a job.
I strongly dislike parts stores….they handed me one, said it would work and that I didnt need a tool…well its clamped together pretty tight as is…and I barely moved it….and seeing as I have to completely take it apart to wrap it around the shaft…im going to have to make another trip to the parts stores tomorrow and try again….
I strongly dislike parts stores….they handed me one, said it would work and that I didnt need a tool…well its clamped together pretty tight as is…and I barely moved it….and seeing as I have to completely take it apart to wrap it around the shaft…im going to have to make another trip to the parts stores tomorrow and try again….
Okay …. I broke the clamp changing my ball joints… you got me. Off to the parts store. I saw that as soon as I posted this….
I think im going to walk.
Okay …. I broke the clamp changing my ball joints… you got me. Off to the parts store. I saw that as soon as I posted this….
I think im going to walk.
I also come from a school that was ranked 2nd in the nation two years ago. Last year it was in top 4 by the Aspen institute(and these are all tech schools). They have individuals that come to the schools and do candid interviews with students, staff, and alumni. They spend weeks at schools making the decisions. So its not a “scam school”. And its not a 9 month program. I am spending 27 months going to school. And its not 25,000 dollars. Its about 3,200 a semester…and all of the teachers has years of experience in their field. One even owns his own independant shop that he runs in addition to teaching.
I work part time at a tire lube place after school every day. During the summers between I work as a general tech at an independant. I know im not going to start making bank….but I know what im getting into. We dont spend the day in a class room pushing pencils. We spend days in the shop turning wrenches.
Give a tech alldata or mitchell and you should be able to figure it out a headgasket…not that they can do it in book time or not…and of course you can pull in extremes like saying ferrari or maserati. But im talking about a car that wont start and they replace a starter or changing an alternator because the belt is worn or a ground cable is bad.
And I know for sure that the first place im NOT going to work is one where the service manager calls lube techs, oil and tire bitch. I guarantee that if you find a motivated tech that works under that title and is treated that way, he wont be motivated long….So you dont have to worry about me working for you banana:
I also come from a school that was ranked 2nd in the nation two years ago. Last year it was in top 4 by the Aspen institute(and these are all tech schools). They have individuals that come to the schools and do candid interviews with students, staff, and alumni. They spend weeks at schools making the decisions. So its not a “scam school”. And its not a 9 month program. I am spending 27 months going to school. And its not 25,000 dollars. Its about 3,200 a semester…and all of the teachers has years of experience in their field. One even owns his own independant shop that he runs in addition to teaching.
I work part time at a tire lube place after school every day. During the summers between I work as a general tech at an independant. I know im not going to start making bank….but I know what im getting into. We dont spend the day in a class room pushing pencils. We spend days in the shop turning wrenches.
Give a tech alldata or mitchell and you should be able to figure it out a headgasket…not that they can do it in book time or not…and of course you can pull in extremes like saying ferrari or maserati. But im talking about a car that wont start and they replace a starter or changing an alternator because the belt is worn or a ground cable is bad.
And I know for sure that the first place im NOT going to work is one where the service manager calls lube techs, oil and tire bitch. I guarantee that if you find a motivated tech that works under that title and is treated that way, he wont be motivated long….So you dont have to worry about me working for you banana: