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Fair enough. For a ’98, it’s got ~175k miles on it.
I question if it was just spilled accidentally, or actually leaked. And trust me, I know…the mustang I was driving had oil that was in a constant state of change, so to speak. A friend of mine threw a piston in his Hyundai Santa Fe by not adding oil (which has sat for about a year since…) and my brother blew up his friend’s car by not adding oil as needed. My plan is to do an oil change while I’ve got the front end up for work, but also check the oil pan gasket and plug, maybe they’re leaking as well? Still doesn’t entirely explain where/why I’m burning oil, but may slow the loss at least. The previous owner did not seem to care much, if at all about quality of parts/how it ran…although the interior is in somewhat decent condition, at least.
Quick update: Rented a compression tester from the local Autozone ($40) and finally checked the compression. Here are the results:
Cylinder 1: 135 psi Dry/ 150 psi Wet
Cylinder 2: 145 psi Dry/ 140 psi Wet
Cylinder 3: 135 psi Dry/ 130 psi Wet (?)
Cylinder 4: 130 psi Dry/ 120 psi Wet (?!)Although this is a rental tester, it seemed rather accurate for the most part….but the fact that the numbers are somewhat inconsistent bothers me :/
The spark plugs (that I changed ~a month ago) are still showing a bit of white corrosion, which I understand to be burned oil. I’m starting to question if its not entirely the head gasket, but rather the piston rings/bores
PS, after I moved my car out of the garage (and there was quite a bit of smoke from the tailpipe, probably the oil from the wet tests, it was mostly white but had a faintly blue color to it) I noticed 2 puddles from where my car was…one looked like an old water puddle, the other was oil, about where the front end of the car was :/ I did have to add a quart and a half (give or take a half) afterwards, because the dipstick looked mostly dry…maybe I’m not so much burning oil as I am leaking it…I will be sure to check the oil pan for leaks when I have the car jacked up to change the tie rod/brakes (as was indicated on the inspection sheet
Attachments:Quick update: Rented a compression tester from the local Autozone ($40) and finally checked the compression. Here are the results:
Cylinder 1: 135 psi Dry/ 150 psi Wet
Cylinder 2: 145 psi Dry/ 140 psi Wet
Cylinder 3: 135 psi Dry/ 130 psi Wet (?)
Cylinder 4: 130 psi Dry/ 120 psi Wet (?!)Although this is a rental tester, it seemed rather accurate for the most part….but the fact that the numbers are somewhat inconsistent bothers me :/
The spark plugs (that I changed ~a month ago) are still showing a bit of white corrosion, which I understand to be burned oil. I’m starting to question if its not entirely the head gasket, but rather the piston rings/bores
PS, after I moved my car out of the garage (and there was quite a bit of smoke from the tailpipe, probably the oil from the wet tests, it was mostly white but had a faintly blue color to it) I noticed 2 puddles from where my car was…one looked like an old water puddle, the other was oil, about where the front end of the car was :/ I did have to add a quart and a half (give or take a half) afterwards, because the dipstick looked mostly dry…maybe I’m not so much burning oil as I am leaking it…I will be sure to check the oil pan for leaks when I have the car jacked up to change the tie rod/brakes (as was indicated on the inspection sheet
Attachments:Considering my only other means of transport has been sitting since I bought my car (an old 2000 mustang, I’ve mentioned it in other threads) has expired tags and the serpentine belt is either not tensioned properly and/or a pulley just randomly fell off somewhere, I don’t wanna lose my Eclipse for a bit without a backup XD
I live with my grandparents, and half the time tools get left out or strewn about the garage :/ I’ve been meaning to invest in my own set for a while now but never had the money, sadly.
I may as well make a few calls tomorr- er..today (it’s 6 am here and I haven’t slept yet o_o) and get a rough estimate, because the stealership wants roughly $950 to do the job, and that just isn’t gonna bode well. First things first though, I need to rent/buy a compression tester, leak-down tester, and of course a manual of sorts to see if the gasket is the cause of my problems or not. Don’t wanna have to tear my head off only to find the gasket is still holding together well >_< Edit: I keep forgetting to mention I have random check engine lights that come and go, most of the time the incompi-techs at autozone (well, the one in my town) tell me they can't find any codes. But, just the other night they found an EGR valve issue. Yet, the next day the light was off again...maybe a sign of electrical issues somewhere?
Considering my only other means of transport has been sitting since I bought my car (an old 2000 mustang, I’ve mentioned it in other threads) has expired tags and the serpentine belt is either not tensioned properly and/or a pulley just randomly fell off somewhere, I don’t wanna lose my Eclipse for a bit without a backup XD
I live with my grandparents, and half the time tools get left out or strewn about the garage :/ I’ve been meaning to invest in my own set for a while now but never had the money, sadly.
I may as well make a few calls tomorr- er..today (it’s 6 am here and I haven’t slept yet o_o) and get a rough estimate, because the stealership wants roughly $950 to do the job, and that just isn’t gonna bode well. First things first though, I need to rent/buy a compression tester, leak-down tester, and of course a manual of sorts to see if the gasket is the cause of my problems or not. Don’t wanna have to tear my head off only to find the gasket is still holding together well >_< Edit: I keep forgetting to mention I have random check engine lights that come and go, most of the time the incompi-techs at autozone (well, the one in my town) tell me they can't find any codes. But, just the other night they found an EGR valve issue. Yet, the next day the light was off again...maybe a sign of electrical issues somewhere?
Unfortunately, I won’t be have the funding to do…well, anything to my car until at least monday, but buying a Chilton’s/Hayne’s book is a top priority (some refer to it as the “DSM Bible”)
As far as a forum that specializes in 2nd gen eclipses, I have been to DSMTuners and DSMTalk, and although I haven’t posted anything about my car *yet*, I plan to in the near future. They seem like decent sites with plenty of specialists and no BS. Of course, that doesn’t mean I won’t still keep this thread updated :3
Generally speaking, how hard would it be to change a head gasket on a DOHC (Chrysler 420a) engine? I’m a bit of a “weekend warrior” type novice, but I know a decent amount about some repairs (thank you again Eric for providing such informative videos)I haven’t encountered having to pull a cyl. head off before though. If I can do it myself, I’d rather buy a gasket off RockAuto and a full socket set/impact socket set/3/8″ drive impact (the toolbox here is a mess where 75% of the time, I can’t find anything) instead of paying ~$1,000 to have O’Brien do it. My only concern is that I’ll screw up someplace and this is my only car and my daily driver…
Unfortunately, I won’t be have the funding to do…well, anything to my car until at least monday, but buying a Chilton’s/Hayne’s book is a top priority (some refer to it as the “DSM Bible”)
As far as a forum that specializes in 2nd gen eclipses, I have been to DSMTuners and DSMTalk, and although I haven’t posted anything about my car *yet*, I plan to in the near future. They seem like decent sites with plenty of specialists and no BS. Of course, that doesn’t mean I won’t still keep this thread updated :3
Generally speaking, how hard would it be to change a head gasket on a DOHC (Chrysler 420a) engine? I’m a bit of a “weekend warrior” type novice, but I know a decent amount about some repairs (thank you again Eric for providing such informative videos)I haven’t encountered having to pull a cyl. head off before though. If I can do it myself, I’d rather buy a gasket off RockAuto and a full socket set/impact socket set/3/8″ drive impact (the toolbox here is a mess where 75% of the time, I can’t find anything) instead of paying ~$1,000 to have O’Brien do it. My only concern is that I’ll screw up someplace and this is my only car and my daily driver…
This morning I went for a drive and realized multiple issues with the Eclipse…I finally broke down and took it in to the local dealership for a 27 point inspection. An hour and $95 later, I confirmed some suspicions I already had, but also found a few other issues. Throttle intake system is marked under the red S, I assume they mean service (soon; on the way home I noticed when I pressed on the gas I felt something similar to brake grinding, but from the gas pedal.), the drivers side tie rod needs to be replaced (under notes there was “(T. (or CT.) WN. Tie Rod”, what exactly does this mean?), Front brakes need to be done, and the oil loss may be signs of a leaking head gasket. The next thing I can think of to do would be a compression and leak-down test to check for that. Attached are pictures of the inspection report, maybe others can see something I may have missed?
Attachments:This morning I went for a drive and realized multiple issues with the Eclipse…I finally broke down and took it in to the local dealership for a 27 point inspection. An hour and $95 later, I confirmed some suspicions I already had, but also found a few other issues. Throttle intake system is marked under the red S, I assume they mean service (soon; on the way home I noticed when I pressed on the gas I felt something similar to brake grinding, but from the gas pedal.), the drivers side tie rod needs to be replaced (under notes there was “(T. (or CT.) WN. Tie Rod”, what exactly does this mean?), Front brakes need to be done, and the oil loss may be signs of a leaking head gasket. The next thing I can think of to do would be a compression and leak-down test to check for that. Attached are pictures of the inspection report, maybe others can see something I may have missed?
Attachments:Quick update: Last night, my radiator cap was hissing/steaming again…time for a new one, and a block test (I know people mentioned sooner, but I haven’t been able to :/) I did manage to find a 5/8″ spark plug socket and changed my plugs ($10 made a big difference) The ones that were in there previously were Autolite copper plugs….with plenty of corrosion on the electrode, and 3 and 4 looked like they had oil or carbon caked on (still wet). I stepped up to NGK V-Power copper plugs, and already noticed an immediate difference in the idle being softer and running much smoother.
And yes, I did use anti-seize and dielectric boot protector/grease on them.
Attachments:Quick update: Last night, my radiator cap was hissing/steaming again…time for a new one, and a block test (I know people mentioned sooner, but I haven’t been able to :/) I did manage to find a 5/8″ spark plug socket and changed my plugs ($10 made a big difference) The ones that were in there previously were Autolite copper plugs….with plenty of corrosion on the electrode, and 3 and 4 looked like they had oil or carbon caked on (still wet). I stepped up to NGK V-Power copper plugs, and already noticed an immediate difference in the idle being softer and running much smoother.
And yes, I did use anti-seize and dielectric boot protector/grease on them.
Attachments:So far, the overheating was caused by loss of antifreeze somewhere, probably because I didn’t screw the radiator cap on properly by accident so it lost pressure/boiled over into the reserve. Wouldn’t hurt to get a new cap when I can, otherwise its fine for the moment. Although, I have noticed that the car’s idle is somewhat rough, noticeably shakey. I still need to check the spark plugs but can’t find the socket I thought I had, must’ve lost it in the garage.
So far, the overheating was caused by loss of antifreeze somewhere, probably because I didn’t screw the radiator cap on properly by accident so it lost pressure/boiled over into the reserve. Wouldn’t hurt to get a new cap when I can, otherwise its fine for the moment. Although, I have noticed that the car’s idle is somewhat rough, noticeably shakey. I still need to check the spark plugs but can’t find the socket I thought I had, must’ve lost it in the garage.
I went ahead and filled it to the brim this morning, and I planned on getting a Haynes/Chilton’s book as soon as I could (I had one for the mustang- well, still do…its a life-saver) but, they’re ~$25 🙁 I may be able to pick up a new cap while I’m out though.
I went ahead and filled it to the brim this morning, and I planned on getting a Haynes/Chilton’s book as soon as I could (I had one for the mustang- well, still do…its a life-saver) but, they’re ~$25 🙁 I may be able to pick up a new cap while I’m out though.
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