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  • in reply to: 4T40E Automatic Transmission #888462
    AlexAlex
    Participant

      I realize this thread is 2+ years old and OP may never see this, but for anyone else who comes across this and may benefit as the majority of people find their answers from reading old threads rather than starting their own:

      The 4T40/4T45’s utilize 2 PCM controlled shift solenoids (1-2, 2-3) for gear selection. In the ‘table’ below, the solenoid that is bold indicates an ON state.

      P, R, N: 1-2, 2-3
      FIRST: 1-2, 2-3
      SECOND: 1-2, 2-3
      THIRD: 1-2, 2-3
      FOURTH: 1-2, 2-3

      In the image attached, 305 indicates the two solenoids. The 1-2 solenoid sits above the 2-3 solenoid. The transmission fluid level is such that while it covers the 2-3 solenoid, it does not reach the 1-2 solenoid under normal operating conditions. As a result, the 1-2 solenoid is very prone, if not guaranteed, to burning up and causing a host of gear selection and shifting issues.

      in reply to: Replacing radiator with a junkyard unit #875746
      AlexAlex
      Participant

        Oops, too late now I suppose. I did use brake.cleaner through the cooler and it sat for a good 5 hours before I installed it. Hopefully that was enough time to dry.

        I wasn’t trying to.be a smartass, I’m sorry you took it that way. I was asking a legitimate question. I guess that does explain why I can’t afford a new radiator. No, I didn’t know you aren’t supposed to do that. You were wrong in telling me what I do and do not know. I guess we both got a little reminder of our stupidity today. I’ll try to not let the door hit my wishfully overinflated head on the way out. I didn’t realize I entered a place too far advanced for the likes of me. ✌

        in reply to: Replacing radiator with a junkyard unit #875731
        AlexAlex
        Participant

          Does this apply to the ATF cooler as well? Just hose it out and good to go?

          in reply to: Horn issues #875616
          AlexAlex
          Participant

            While you’re at it I would recommend a quick trip to your local junkyard and find some classic 4note Caddy horns. I did that when mine broke and wired a separate button to the dash to power them. It’s pretty awesome, ha, but a Mountaineer is bigger than a Grand Am so you may not get the taken back looks that I get lol. I kept my relay in place so I wouldn’t lose my panic or keyless horn chirp and just snipped the wire running from the horn to the clock spring and put a switch in it’s place. Just took a minute to retrain my brain to hit the radio instead of the wheel lol

            in reply to: Horn issues #875557
            AlexAlex
            Participant

              The horn ring that sits over the area bag.. clock spring? I forget it’s official name, within the steering wheel might be sticking closed. I don’t know Ford too well but the horn is more than likely activated by the horn switch in the steering wheel closing and providing ground or the BCM providing ground (like when you use keyless entry and the horn beeps). You either have a short to ground somewhere, a bad computer, or a bad clock spring thing.

              My horn in the wheel stopped working altogether and I noticed one day though when my stereo’s cable for the bluetooth microphone got caught in the crack of the steering wheel when turning if it went deep enough my horn would sound, confirming my clock spring? was faulty.

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