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I can hear the fuel pump prime when I turn the car on, and have listened the the ‘clicking’ of the fuel injectors with a stethoscope. People say Honda fuel pumps rarely go bad and it is hard for fuel filters to be clogged. But there’s always a chance I guess. Having to change the ECU would suck im guessing,
[quote=”Bonnieman” post=196257]Yes a bad cat can cause stalling.
aftermarket ignition parts are often very troublesome on Hondas[/quote]
I’m hoping I got a Honda distributor, the company I got it from said they sell them from them dealership, Plus it was a more expensive one and Eric said Honda dizzys usually are.
I’m going to have to replace the cat eventually anyway, but I don’t want to replace it now due to cost just to see if it is the problem. Any idea how clogged it would have to be to throw off the stuff it is telling the computer which would mess up calculations?[quote=”nightflyr” post=196256]Sorry to be so broad stroked, but there is not much information to proceed with.[/quote]
Thank you, I appreciate ur response as it gives me some things to research and look into 🙂[quote=”BubbaGarage” post=196033]To test for spark, remove a spark plug wire and install a spark tester.[/quote]
So yesterday my car decided to start right up. So i concluded there was spark, so I went on to check the primary resistance in the coil of the distributor. The primary resistance was way off. Im currently looking for good replacement coils. Hopefully this is it, but as you said im sure it’s not the only thing.I also noticed a little bit of red dust inside the black cap of the distributor. It wasn’t caked in it but it was still present. I heard red dust is bad, should I just replace the whole thing then? unless the dust comes from the coil, but I don’ think it does.
[quote=”BubbaGarage” post=196025] When it will NOT RUN, you need to 1st know if you have spark .[/quote]
Are there any possible ways to test this or any other problems on the dizzy? Because previously I opened it up and the rotor seemed fine, i assume there could be other causes of a bad distributor though right? like the coil or ignition module? Would it be better to just skip testing and buy a new dizzy?Here are some youtube links as suggested :
The weird noise; you can see the noise happens after I stop cranking the engine –
[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mmjBcV9LPWg[/video]
Starting; I was taking a video to show the point that the engine tries to start and kind of engages but doesn’t fully. That can be seen in the first try. Surprisingly though the car ended up starting. –
[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q3L7yY72A-4[/video]Thank you so much for replying, I really appreciate it because I at least have a plan of attack now.
You asked if it ever overheated before, and the only time it does is when it idols for a while. I noticed that when I went to get smog checked. Though that might just be because no airflow and my coolant is close to low. I intend on filling that back up.
I pulled the distributor cap off and everything seemed fine. There was no dust as you mentioned and I made sure all the spark plugs were in all the way. The rotor was still there as well, and all the electrical seemed to be in-tack. I have some photos if you want to look at it.
I wasn’t able to check the fuel pump yet, any suggestions on how to check if it’s still working? Or do I just have to take it off and open it up? I did notice though that when I tried to start the car, after a few attempts it would smell like gas. (it would crank crank crank crank half-fire crank crank, if that makes sense, but would never catch) I assumed it was just because I was flooding the engine, but could there be a gas smell from the pump not working?