Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
I recently bought a 1998 Honda Civic LX and I had the exact same issue as you did. Pinging under load and erratic idling. I was reviewing the maintenance record and I noticed that the timing belt service was done along with spark plugs, rotor, dist. cap and timing adjusted and set. The service was done at a Honda dealership. I decided to check the timing once again because of a previous experience I had with the dealer. The Honda dealer told me that the ignition timing does not need to be set or adjusted because it is computer controlled. Watching Eric’s ignition timing video and reading the manual state’s otherwise. So I checked the timing and it was off by several degrees. I followed the exact same procedure shown in the video. I took the computer out of the loop and set the timing manually. Afterwards everything was perfect. With these vehicles you have to take the computer out of the loop to set the timing, otherwise it won’t work out right.
[video width=425 height=344 type=youtube]sGzxCCaxDjI[/video]
I recently bought a 1998 Civic with a rough and sporadic idle. Before you buy anything, check all systems first. In my case, I cleaned the throttle body, checked the air filter, coolant, and verified the spark plugs and wires were changed. I didn’t clean the IAC valve. I just didn’t think about it. I did all this for good measure not expecting anything and I was right, no changes. The previous owner had the ignition timing set when the timing belt was done. I double checked the timing using the honda procedure and found it was off significantly. I adjusted it appropriately and it’s doing fine thus far.
Another quick question. When I replace the condenser I was thinking about replacing the drier. I was wondering if I needed to add oil to the drier before installation?
I found a diagram that someone had posted about the a/c relay. There are four pin slots on the fuse box. Pin 1 = Always hot with 12 volts. Pin 2 = Goes to the stator/clutch. Pin 3 is activated at 12 volts when the key is in position 2. Pin 4 = Becomes hot with 12 volts when the a/c switch in the vehicle is turned on. When it’s hot, it causes the relay to activate pins 1 and 2 and thus turns the compressor on. I tested the pin slots at Pin 1 (always hot with 12 volts), Pin 3 (Hot when key is in position 2) and Pin 4 (a/c switch) with my multi meter and all were hot at 12 volts. So I put the relay back in and turned on the a/c switch. I verified 12 volts at Pin 4 (a/c switch), but I got nothing at Pin 2 (stator/clutch), which is connected to the a/c stator/clutch. I could have tested the relay by applying 12 volts from the battery directly to it, but I didn’t want to risk ruining the relay, so instead I jumped Pin 1 and Pin 2 together and the compressor turned on. This confirmed that my compressor was working and that my freon was non existent. I could have jumped the low pressure switch, but this method was a lot better and I was able to test more systems such as the a/c switch, power from the key, etc. I charged it with 2 cans of freon, added some dye and found the leak at the condenser. Looks like a rock hit it. I read up on the odyssey forums that this was a common problem due to lack of protection from the grill. Had I known, I would have beefed up the grill and probably could have avoided this problem.
I bought this dye injector from autozone: http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/uv-light-and-accessories/quest-2-oz-uv-dye-injector/875151_0_0/?checkfit=true and uv dye for about $20. Pretty good deal and I can use it on future vehicles. It was better than spending $20 bucks on freon with dye. I bought two cans at walmart for about $14.
Interesting information. I am considering one with a rebuilt transmission. I wonder if the rebuilt transmission are just as prone to failure?
Since your car is 2015 and still under warranty, I would follow all of the maintenance requirements listed in your owners manual and keep a record of such just in case you need to make a warranty claim in the future. There is a maintenance minder system, however there is a section in the owners manual that lists certain service intervals for hot weather, dusty conditions, etc.
Thank you very much. I will ensure that the fuel cap is securely tightened and monitor the situation accordingly. Thanks again.
Never mind. I see there is only one. In Eric’s timing belt preview, I saw two different kinds of hydraulic tensioners so I was confused. I realize there are different types of hydraulic tensioners for the different model engines. Thanks.
I did a power steering flush on my honda the other day. You can get some caps at the auto parts store that will fit right over the inlet on the reservoir and it works great. Your methodology sounds good. But I was under the impression that only honda ps fluid should be used. I see that prestone honda ps fluid is cheaper. I am curious to see how it turns out. Keep us posted.
I did a power steering flush on my honda the other day. You can get some caps at the auto parts store that will fit right over the inlet on the reservoir and it works great. Your methodology sounds good. But I was under the impression that only honda ps fluid should be used. I see that prestone honda ps fluid is cheaper. I am curious to see how it turns out. Keep us posted.
I use Mobile 1 High Mileage full synthetic oil. I change my oil according to my maintenance minder which is usually about every 5000-6000 miles. I don’t think it’s necessary to change your oil every 3000 miles, especially if you are using synthetic.
I use Mobile 1 High Mileage full synthetic oil. I change my oil according to my maintenance minder which is usually about every 5000-6000 miles. I don’t think it’s necessary to change your oil every 3000 miles, especially if you are using synthetic.
Sounds like you are doing a good job. I would also do the following as scheduled: coolant change, brake fluid change, power steering fluid change, spark plugs, fuel filter.
The main thing though is to make sure you change your oil and filter regularly. If you have small leaks, you could try a high mileage oil. If no leaks, I would just stick to what you are using. Personally, I would use a high mileage full synthetic oil. My favorite is Mobil 1 HM oil. But if you do decide to switch to synthetic, be warned that you may develop leaks to the the improved flow and cleaning properties. You would need to keep an eye on your oil level.
Sounds like you are doing a good job. I would also do the following as scheduled: coolant change, brake fluid change, power steering fluid change, spark plugs, fuel filter.
The main thing though is to make sure you change your oil and filter regularly. If you have small leaks, you could try a high mileage oil. If no leaks, I would just stick to what you are using. Personally, I would use a high mileage full synthetic oil. My favorite is Mobil 1 HM oil. But if you do decide to switch to synthetic, be warned that you may develop leaks to the the improved flow and cleaning properties. You would need to keep an eye on your oil level.
