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I went to the junk yard today and picked up a fuel hose and 4 injectors from a newer model civic. I removed my fuel rail and observed the fuel injectors. There was no leaking. I removed the injectors and they were very dirty. The housing was very dirty as well. I cleaned the new injectors and the housing and put it all back together. I cut the fuel hose in half and put a t-split on it with a schrader valve. Now I can clamp before the fuel pressure gauge and get a more accurate test. Here are the results of the test:
Unclamped = After 30 minutes = 11 psi drop. After an hour it’s a 12 psi drop.
Supply line (before fuel pressure gauge) and return line clamped: After 40 minutes = 2.5 psi drop
Supply line clamped (after fuel pressure gauge) : After 40 minutes = 4 psi drop
Return line clamped: After 30 minutes = 4 psi drop
Supply line clamped (before fuel pressure gauge): After 30 minutes – 1.5 psi drop
I would verify that the fuses under the hood are bad. If they were bad, the car wouldn’t crank at all. And that’s because the ECU fuse is located in the fuse box under the hood. I would check the battery first and make sure you have at least 12.5 volts. You’ve already verified spark and air so I would focus on fuel pressure. Even though you can hear the pump, you might not have enough pressure to start the car. I got a fuel pressure test kit from autozone on loan. It’s very nice and saved me from buying one.
I am using the stock air cleaner system. I will have to investigate the valve lash on that cylinder. I got my endoscope in and I was able to inspect the cylinder heads. There is hardly any combustion deposits on the cylinder. There are very minimal deposits on the side of the cylinders. Definitely not enough to warrant increased combustion chamber pressure.
The problem with the fuel test is that the pressure gauge attaches directly to the filter. The supply line before the filter is made of metal so I can’t clamp it. I am able to clamp the supply line from the filter to the rail. I am going to try to find an adapter that will let me connect to the rail so I can perform a more accurate test. If not I will have to pull the rail and test the injectors that way. Would rather not do that because I don’t want to disrupt the injector seals and cause unnecessary leaks, but if I have to I will.
The supply line that goes from the filter to the rail is rubber. The fuel pressure gauge is attached to the filter and before the hose. I was able to pinch the supply line and I noticed a 2 psi drop in about 20-25 minutes at 27-28 psi from 30. Upon releasing the supply line, the pressure went down immediately to 20-22 psi. I am thinking the fuel injectors are leaking. I am going to pull the rail so I can see first hand if this is the case.
I think I am getting somewhere. I repeated the fuel pressure test. I’ve got good fuel pressure at 31psi. The fuel pressure regulator checks out fine at 40 psi unplugged and clamped. On shutdown I noticed a 3 psi drop within 5 minutes and a 10 psi drop in 30 minutes so I know I have a leak somewhere. Fuel lines aren’t leaking so it’s either my pump or injectors. I’m having a problem. In Eric’s video he was to clamp the return line and the supply line. Problem is my supply line is metal so how do I get around that?
I used some seafoam through the brake booster to attempt to clean the combustion chambers. I did this a few months ago without success. I am waiting on the endoscope to come in so I can see what it looks like in there. I may have to soak the pistons. I might try some berryman for soak. I heard it was pretty good. I am going to check the fuel pressure again with a new kit since the Harbor Freight kit I bought had some issues. Not sure if I can trust their stuff. I bought a multi-meter from them that I had to return for erroneous readings. I tested my coil and it was out of spec. Was gonna get a new coil, but I decided to verify with a meter at advance auto and turns out it was ok. I was listening to my fuel injectors the other day and it seemed like injector 4 was clicking faster than the others. I’m not sure if it was my imagination. Gonna repeat the fuel test and see what I get.
Have you checked the rear main, front main, crankshaft, and camshaft seals? Also PCV valve is a good one to check. If those check out, you might need to do a compression test.
Did a compression test and here are the results :
Cylinder 1 – Dry = 115 Wet = 150
Cylinder 2 – Dry = 114 Wet = 160
Cylinder 3 – Dry = 112 Wet = 190
Cylinder 4 – Dry = 120 Wet = 150Fuel pressure is 31 psi after turning off. 30 minutes later it was 28 psi. 1 hour later it is 27.5 psi.
Cooling system appears to be working property. Will check combustion chamber for deposits as soon as I can. There is no air in the system. Readings are good according to the scan tool. Are you suggesting to physically checking the thermostat and the ECT temp sensor? Will this cause my car to run rich? It’s odd that my negative fuel trims get worse with acceleration.
Fuel pressure and regulator are good. But I forgot to check for stable fuel pressure with the engine off so I’ll do that tomorrow. I tested the MAP and it checks out good. I checked for vacuum leaks again and found none. Will check for compression tomorrow. I changed the upstream oxygen sensor and put a Denso one in. There is some improvement with the trims at idle, but essentially the same results with increased rpms of 4000-5000 Still runs rich at -11 stft or so at idle. Worsens with wide open throttle, -22 to -25 at stft. Ltft hovering around 8-11. Ignition timing is about perfect. Spark plug advance is at 11.5-12 after warm up and at idle.
New info. Short term fuel trims get worse with increasing rpm. Goes from -10 to -29. Also the upstream O2 sensor stays in the range of 0.6-0.7 with almost no fluctuation.
