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I would love to do that, but unfortunately the guy that worked on it before lost it, along with a lot of other things.
Yes, the head and damper came off and the only thing that’s left is the shaft. I got the problem solved. I was fortunate. I sprayed some penetrating oil in there and then followed it up with some wd-40 last night. This afternoon I was able to just use my fingers and remove it by hand. I was very thankful. I had read on some other honda forums where the pressure is released if the head of the bolt comes off. It makes sense and that applied to my case. Big relief. I did not attempt to drill it first because I knew that any mistakes would cause irreversible damage and or make extraction worse. I did the above method first and was successful, thankfully.
I was thinking of drilling and using the ez out, but my only concern was if it got messed up, then I would make a bad situation worse. I was wondering if it would be worth using some jb weld or something to put a nut on there and then using the nut to try and get it out. Anyone have success with this?
That’s interesting. I would expect more of a change in the sound when turning the wheel. Try removing the drive belt and then starting the car. Make sure you have a fully charged battery. Then start the car and see if you can hear the noise again.
November 29, 2016 at 5:57 am in reply to: I’m Totally Stumped and Frustrated – Coolant Issue #872813What a drag.
November 29, 2016 at 1:39 am in reply to: I’m Totally Stumped and Frustrated – Coolant Issue #872806oh ok, i thought you were taking the head off
anyway you can provide a video of what is happening?
Pump is probably bad. If it’s the original pump, then it’s probably failing. Those pumps were known for failing.
Air is getting in somewhere. Probably the power steering hose seals. I would check/replace those.
November 21, 2016 at 8:23 am in reply to: HELP! Honda J-Type Engine: Timing belt replacement #872356It sounds like spring back. You have to rotate it back counter clockwise. If you try and go clockwise, the valves may hit something. Take the spark plugs out if you haven’t already.
When you open it, air will get into the system. If you have verified all of your connections, then you can bleed the air out by turn the wheel lock to lock until the air is gone. Now, you may see a little bubbling, you shouldn’t see anything foaming for sure. If you do, you will have to re-evaluate your work. Hopefully you coated the new o-rings with power steering fluid. Hopefully you don’t need a new pump. Check for leaks around the pump housing. If you find leaks you will need a new pump.
You will have to check the following:
1. All sensors dealing with a/f ratio and temperature
2. Exhaust back pressure. Intake vacuum pressure
3. Fuel pressure
4. Ignition components for quality
5. Timing belt for correct timingIf you suspect brake booster issues, use another line when checking intake vacuum pressure.
a/c drain hose? got a picture?
Is that a 2005 Acura TL? Sounds like the power steering pump is whining due to air. My 2007 Odyssey did the same. They had a recall on the o-ring gaskets that connect the hose to the power steering pump. You can tell if they’ve been changed because the new gasket on the bottom is orange. If the power steering pump is leaking, you might as well get a new one with the new line gaskets.
Good video above. May need to do a smoke test for evap leaks.
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