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[quote=”Daha3350″ post=188108]Also, mckrishes, I presume you’ve read the thread’s posts to date; if you have, refer to posts made here by timinglight. He did the exact same process in his ’99 Civic as I’m doing in my ’97, and waited 500 miles (about 800 KM, give or take) before changing the fluid again. I intend to follow that example (seems the old transmission needed that new fluid and probably needs what’s to come; she’s driving better every day!) whether I use the Lucas additive on the fluid change to come will depend on my budget at the time.
The Lucas additive – at least the strong stuff; what Eric threw into his Subaru way back when – is pretty thick, yes. Not quite molasses, but not too far off; I had to wait five minutes to let the stuff flow down my funnel and into the transmission system. Thank goodness I poured that first; the DW-1 afterwards helped wash the excess off and get it where it needed to be.[/quote]I did see those posts. He assumed the incorrect fluid was used. Was that your case? Anyway, glad it’s improving and if worse comes to worse, you can always swap it out. I did it and it was real easy. In fact I just helped my nephew swap his engine out and it was pretty easy too. That manual I sent you early is very useful. Best of luck to you.
Before you drill out the screws, try putting some penetrating oil in there and then using an impact screw driver as mentioned above. Worked real well for me. Drilling out screws can sometimes be a pain. Also your transmission fluid looked pretty dark. Did you have a lot of shavings on the plug? I also like to wait several hundred miles before repeating the transmission fluid change. It gives time for the new fluid to cycle in there and do some cleaning. I heard the lucas additive is pretty thick. How has it been holding up?
Time for a new mechanic. One that can properly diagnose and correct your issue. You have too many variables to get that answered here.
Check the fluid level, the solenoids, and the sensors. If those are fine, then it’s new transmission time.
Use a stronger impact, but that will cost a lot of money. You can use penetrating oil and heat. Be careful when using the breaker bar. You don’t want to shear the head of from it being too tight. That would make for a bad day.
If the entire head is off and just the shaft of the bolt is in there, then it will come right out unless the threads got stripped some how, but that would be unlikely. All you need to is get some grip on it and it will come right out. You won’t need to drill it. Just spray some penetrating oil and let it sit. As for the key, you can get a harmonic balancer at autozone for about $100 or just go to the junkyard.
Here is the link for the manual. It’s too big to email.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_OqXR7rGeSpYTAwYjYxNzYtZWM4Ny00MjUxLTg0OWItZjc0NTY0MzZmMzMz/view
Ok will do. I also recommend you use 4 jack stands and go as high as you can. That way you can jack the car up evenly and have plenty of space to remove the transmission. You will definitely need safe guards in place. You can leave a jack in place as you suggested, but I would try and find some cinder blocks at a building site they aren’t using. You can also put the tires under the car as well. Also take all the tires off including the back ones off to reduce the weight of the vehicle. Will get that manual e-mailed to you.
You could do a pressure test, but it seems apparent as to what the problem is. Just change it and be done with it.