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Update. I never did find out where the noise was coming from. For the past several years, I changed out all 4 rotors and brake pads as needed. The only thing I noticed was the brake pad on the front passenger side had some uneven wear and sometimes the caliper would spring back a little when pressing them in. I had cleaned the caliper pins and lubed them accordingly the entire time, but still the same result. They weren’t damaged or rusted. I ended up selling the van at 250k miles. At that the point, the noise was reduced, but still there.
Good video. I think that the ground cable on the underside of the vehicle will need a protective covering with some di-electric grease to prevent corrosion.
Problem solved. You can read about it at the Honda Odyssey Forum.
I jacked the front end up and put it on jack stands. Turned the wheel to the left and right fully and could not reproduce the noise. I did accelerate and could not reproduce the noise. I visualized the suspension components while doing this and couldn’t see that anything was wrong. Everything looked intact. Here is a video of the noise.
[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zathXrsO_5w&feature=youtu.be[/video]
[quote=”Flintiron” post=194449]When you had it in the air, did you have both front wheels off the ground so you could turn the steering wheel? If not do that (on jack stands), turn the steering wheel all the way, and spin the wheel, and you might find the noise. It could be something so simple as hitting the plastic wheel well cover.[/quote]
I did have both wheels off the ground. I will try your suggestion and report back with the results. Thanks for the help.
Just another update. I’ve got about 206,000 miles on the van now. I finally saw the maintenance minder for the timing belt. It came on a few thousand miles ago around 202,000 miles. I am thinking it may have come on before I bought the vehicle, but I could have missed it to. I was diligently watching for it though.
Thanks for the information. When I owned my 2002 Odyssey many years ago, the engine oil called for 5w-30. I always used high mileage synthetic oil and had almost zero problems. Any oil leaks were very minor. Hardly noticeable. I purchased my 2007 Odyssey and used the recommended 5w-20. I used high mileage synthetic and since then I’ve had some pretty bad oil leaks. I’ve done some research and it appears that my older odyssey and my newer odyssey have use the same J35 engine. Both are SOHC Vtech engines. And my engine does not have the VCM (Variable Cylinder Management system). So I think I may try a 5w-30 or 10w-30 high mileage oil (The 2000 odyssey uses the same engine but recommends 5w-30 or 10w-30). I am debating on whether or not to use full synthetic or semi-synthetic. I’ll see how that does and then consider using stop leak. I will probably start with 5w-30 because it’s been pretty cold in my area. I’ll report back with the results.
There is no burning of oil. Just multiple leaks. It is an old car with high miles. I just think that spending the money and time to fix all of the leaks would exceed the worth of the vehicle. So an oil additive would be better then going up on the grade of oil?
I was wondering if moving up in grade would help. I’ve been using synthetic for the past 100k miles. Currently it has aboun 200k miles on it.
Your videos are excellent and thorough. I say focus on quality videos that are popular to the public which I think you are already going to do. Mod videos are also cool and popular.
I would check your battery and charging system first. I say this because you CEL light is resetting when you turn the car off. The check engine light won’t reset by itself, at least not after 5 minutes. You should check the TCC solenoid to see if it is within spec. If it is, then you most likely have an impending torque converter failure. You can hear some whining just before it fails completely.
The ignition timing is controlled by the computer. When you take the computer out of the loop, you can set the timing properly. Then afterwards when you remove the paper clip, the computer should take over control of the ignition timing. You may not see it change with idle, but you will with varying engine speed.
In my civic, my TCC set the check engine light in my civic. I would reset it and it would come back on again at 55 mph and above, but never at lower speeds. Soon after I heard a whining noise from the transmission and then shortly after that my transmission failed completely. I could start it up and it would work for like 30 seconds and then it would stop shifting. I changed the transmission out myself. It wasn’t as bad as I expected.