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Yes I am going to replace all upper half gaskets (manifold, intake, head, throttle body).
No the block will still be attached to the car, I’m only removing the head.
Because it been damaged (dented) and bent from a collision, so I want to avoid future leakage and replace it since the coolant radiator is leaking and I’m changing it already
because I could damage the alternator since it will be charging the battery and I am disconnecting it.
I have done it before (changing batteries while the car is running to avoid resting the ECU) and haven’t had any problems. But I dont want to risk the corvette
are those rebuilt ones reliable? I have had an offer for a rebuilt alternator for $80 with one month warranty
I am replacing it because of a noise from pulley/clutch of the compressor, no leak or failure in ac components them self
Thank you for referring me to the page.
Now it is must likely a compressor making the noise, Whats the fix? changing whole compressor or the clutch/pulley be changed without opening the ac system?
It’s a GT V8. I don’t have any problems with the transmission. But I want to keep it healthy and running smooth that’s wht I’m thinking of changing it.
You are right I didn’t see any recommendations for changing the trany fluid.For the sake of keeping it healthy, is it worth it? Can I drain without dropping the pan?
Update: I went to the dealer they told me it will cost $423 (that’s equal to 127 Kuwaiti Dinnar) for battery and installation.
So I decided to buy the battery from the dealer, which cost $200 and install it at a German car specialist. He connected his scanner and diagnosed it as weak battery because we got 3 fault codes related to low voltage. Which approved your diagnose too Eric.
Anyway, they took $32 to install it in front of me. Took 30 minutes. He erased the fault codes too for free.
Total cost $232 instead of 423 dealer price.
I’ll keep you goes updated if the EPC light comea back on. But for now, everything is perfectly normal.Thank you Eric for being so awsome
BTW, I’m from Kuwait.Thank you for your reply. The manual states that the EPC warning light is for the (engine management system), which is, from what I understand, is similar to Electronic Power Control.
Updated: today, the car started up and the warning EPC light is off. Should I be worried still or relax until it come back on then take it to the dealer? Plus, won’t a regular ODB2 scan tool work for dem VWs?
I totally agree with you, I am not sure how did they diagnose that. BTW, I change the spark plugs last August.
When they say “wire set” when wires exactly? if I want to buy/order them what to look for? are they easy to change?Yes you are right, he is going to change the spark plugs, wire sets, coil pack. Do I really need to change the spark plug and the wires with the coil pack?
Also, he wrote down on the receipt (3-step fuel system cleaner soltech 35003) + fuel system tune up. Do you have any idea what these other two jobs are and whether they are necessary or not.thank you
thanks for the quick reply.
Alright, 15 minutes before this code show up. I replaced the cabin air filter. Now I know the cabin air filter has nothing to do with the transmission, but could a sensor in the a/c cause the TSP code go on?
No check engine light. The car start right up with no problem
the RPM falls when I press the clutch. when raising the RPM the car keeps runningAlright, I changed the purge solenoid valve and it been 5 days now and the check engine light did not go on. Autozone replaced the valve for me under the warranty. It took me 15 minutes to take it out and 5 minutes to reinstall it in the dark using a hand light in Autozone parking lot at 32 F. So, it is pretty easy task to do if you are worried, do not.
Lesson learned, do not spray too much throttle body cleaner cause it will damage your purge valve. make sure you leave the throttle body after cleaning it for the cleaner to evaporate. (learned the hard way)
thank you for helping.