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your lucky you got 4 cylinder vehicles because that’s less $ when you buy the plugs.
Ya know the best way is to carefully remove the plugs then take them up to the store and match them up.
It’s so much easier with a magnetic spark plug socket and extension bar.
Yeah there are stem with a small coils inside and boot that connects to the plug from the coil.
There’s no standard coil pack/module/plug wires set up on this one.
The Transistor has no resistance when it’s removed from the car. That means it’s a good coil pack.But the thing about it is when the plugs go bad in this car you get an emissions code. Most people/motorists/techs would assume you’d get a misfire.
I read anti-seize lowers the torque value. The Motorcraft plugs look like steel and looks as though they could rust yeah I’d use anti seize on those but these plugs are some other type of metal Nissan isn’t recommending that.
NGK has the stem available but how do I separate the transistor from the boots? Do they pull apart or screw apart?
NGK claims no anti-seize is needed. The type metal prevents these from seizing. That’s a great thing.
As far as the wire/cable > they’re either good or bad in these cars as far as I’m concerned because I can’t see how to separate the cable from the transistor.
Maybe I’ll check them when I re-seal valve cover.
I got NGK PFR5G-11 and feel good. 15xxxx miles never changed them once. This should be interesting.
Where do I apply the grease to?
The wire is buried in the rubber boot. How do I test the wire and what numbers/setting on multi-meter do I use? What figure am I looking for on the ohms?
The Voltage only comes from the Ignition not the ECM. It passes through a fuse box. The two wires on my Max are 10amps 12 V.
The ECM doesn’t connect to the Alternator.
it won’t make a difference if it’s repaired, if the Cat is bad it’s going to damage the new repairs.
If the compression is low the engine needs to be replaced right?
You could get a replacement for that one for under $500.
What caused the BHG in the first place?
Did you have a bad catalyst? In these Maxima’s the pre cat is failing not allowing sufficient exhaust to breath and the engine deteriorates.
It’s probably ~12V.
Your issue is extremely chaotic and bizarre.
You don’t need to check voltage just disconnect the negative battery cable and check for open closed circuits between the alternator harness and corresponding ECM pin location. shake the harness to see if the circuit opens.
You might be able to slide some small pins into the corresponding ECM harness wire from behind to probe the circuit grounding the negative probe pin while the car is running. But don’t use the ECM ground use clips and ground it to the brake pedal or something.
You can’t test the alternator harness wires while the car is running they’re waterproof.Could the absence of heat protectors on the battery terminals / alternator terminals cause it?
looks like the battery should have a cover/shield over it too.
[quote=”boylephillip94″ post=169208]I own a 1998 Honda CRV. I have been experiencing some issues with it lately. It tends to misfire, hesitate whatever you want to call it when at low speeds like coming up to a stop sign or doing a “K” turn. It also will stall at times because the misfire is so drastic. I have also been driving down the road a few times and ive experienced complete power loss. Without explanation it just shuts the engine down I press the gas peddle down and it eventually comes back to life. It only last a couple seconds then the problem is gone. i can leave the car at idle and turn on the AC and I find the misfire is easy to duplicate. By turning on the AC and sometimes it will just misfire or sputter if you will and sometimes it doesnt but sometimes you can put the car in reverse or drive and it will try to die out. but I notice it happens mostly when AC is on and there is some sort of load at low engine speeds. Most of the time the car runs fine I can drive it without an issue. going into city traffic can be stressful because sometimes I will approach a traffic light and it seems fine or it may misfire and i can put it into nuetral and it will stop sometimes it doesnt stop and i give it soem throttle that seems to help sometimes. then upon taking off it will hesitate or sputter until you get over 1000 rpm then the car runs fine. I have tried to remedy this issue myself I have replaced the TPS, MAP sensor, intake temp sensor (which oddly is flooded with oil but i saw this among all 1st gen CRVs I have seen), throttle body (replaced with a used one but cleaned well), distributor assembly, timing belt, valves have been adjusted, compression test preformed ( found that all cyl were around 135psi until I squirted a bit of oil into cyl then I got about 150+ on all cyl which led me to believe i had carbon buildup on rings so i seafoamed the crankase ), injectors (used), catalytic converter (new). all of the things I have done so far have made the problem less noticeable and it doesnt happen as often but it still misfires and stalls but does not cut out while driving anymore. its running synthetic oil 5w30. I am also experiencing a transmission issue that I have recently also tried to remedy. When i want to accelerate up a hill or just pass somebody it will slam into the gear that it downshifts into weather it be 3rd or 2nd depending on my speed. i replaced most of the solenoids and sensors on the trans and still slams but it has gotten alot better! i have heard that this issue might be able to resolve by putting maxlife trans fluid in it. I put lucas trans fix in and it has helped a little. it has had two changes in the past 20,000 km. with each change it got better and got even better after lucas oil treatment. i have been experiencing this issue for over a year. it have been doing it for atleas the last 100,000 km and has never gotten worse or better. I also find it hunts for gears sometimes or slips often like its shifting into neutral. I am at my wits end! this car has almost 250,000 km or (156,000 Miles). I love the car and wish not to get rid of it. but over the last year it has nickle and dimed me over $3000 between suspension parts alternator, distributor failure, new front cv axels the list goes on and on and might I add that is $3000 with parts at wholesale and free labour so its alot parts!. I really want to fix the car! Plus I’m in way over the cars value so at this point ive spent so much i have to keep the car. if i have to do a trans change I will but I would love to just figure out if I’m having a ecu issue maybe. oh by the way NO CODES OR CHECK ENGINE LIGHT????? please i really need some help if anybody can help i would really appreciate it! sorry if my post bounces around alot im just so overwhelmed with all the things Ive replaced its hard to name them all off.[/quote]
You shouldn’t have to replace all the sensors. There’s a way to test them with a multi-meter to cancel them out as the issue. It could be a bad ECM
or an intermittent harness issue. At 150xxx miles you may have to patiently inspect all grounds, circuits, harnesses to get to the bottom of it.
I’d be concerned with the oil you described in the intake temp sensor.On these cars they illustrate a pressure test. The gauge is carefully installed between the HPPS hose and the HPPS line into the gear.
The gauge has a valve on it and if the pressure is not within range you shut the valve off to see if it builds up enough.
If the pressure is too high is a bad FCV
if it’s too low it’s a bad gear
if it’s too low after valve shut off it’s a bad pump.Is there another way to tell if your pump is bad without this? I’m not seeing this available at the big tool warehouses.
Thanksthe bottom support had no color.
it’s rusted all the way through it has to be completely replaced.
$1097 that’s Nissan’s quote but then again Nissan has an enormous facility and pays a lot more in property taxes, insurance, ect…The shop that quoted $800 is in a popular location but not as large as Nissan.
The $600 was a small operation located behind another business in a storage unit so I assume they can price it more reasonably.
I guess I’m asking what ETCG affiliates would charge for this?
How many hours would it take and what’s a reasonable pay rate?
I figure $50/hr it should take aprox. 10 hours. so about $500 labor and $300 parts.
Thanks for the response. I’ll take your word for it. It seems logical but I’ve never heard of it.
So on these cars you have to carefully remove the throttle once every so often clean and reseal throttle chamber or the coolant leaks through and shorts out the ECM costing thousands of dollars in damage?!